Scruffythefirst

There certainly isn't and thats why the cossie displaces a lot more than 2litres in reality. Its called boost. For example a rover V8 produces approximately 135-140 BMEP (psi) while a 300ft/lb cossie produces over 370. Hell even a standard cossie produces nearly 250. A Vr ~ 200ft/lb only produces 170ish BMEP, which is considered OK. Anyway, the cosworth engine is old, the bottom end is dimensionaly identical to an engine designed in the 60's. They got it right then though :mrgreen:

I'm really sad and very bored, plus your such nice guys :oops: Yup, they are very nice. Bit slow but nice :) I would, except i don't think many people would appreciate a ford powered one :shock: and those spare parts are my profit to finish the dax :mrgreen:

And vauxhalls

So is it a T3 hybrid or a GTseries? If its a T3 hybrid they didn't get 400+ brake (well they didn't cos they used nos :roll: ) - you need at minimum of t4, otherwise its a GT series and if you're buying one of them then your a muppet if you get the wrong one for the engine spec cos the prices dont vary that much. Theres plenty of 500bhp cossies running around doing sensible mileage (60k plus) and quite a few running 600bhp without too many problems. With the Vr's habit for munching bores / rings and its rather weak dimensions I doubt a blown vr putting out 160 per L is going to last very long either. A cossie will put out 320-400bhp all day long with no reliability issues at all, (170bhp per litre). You talk about the head being restrictive, which is true but on forced induction the difference a good head makes is much reduced, not to mention the NOS. I'm not saying its a bad engine, all I'm saying is that its not particularly impressive feat considering the size (i'm not a fan of V8's either).... Stick a blown 4 pot of the right dimensions and you get a much more reliable engine for less weight.... The Vr does what its designed to do well, but it'd be my last choice for forced induction following closely after the K series.

Well i would if I had any money. Anyway I prefer fords - aiming for 320bhp from 2litres on standard bottom end and head..... And the bottom ends good for 8600rpm too - some solid lifters and so's the top end :)

Well thats a bit crap - 500bhp from 3 litres, even allowing for the limited revs available (poor bore:stroke ratio) i would have thought a reliable 650bhp would have been fairly easy. I won't mention the nos.....

Thats hillarious..... Well, maybe not but damn :D

Well my cav needs new mats 8)

You know me too well. If he wants to hit over 500bhp everything except the block and the head casting will have to be replaced - crank rods and pistons wont cope as standard. 600bhp is hard enough in a cossy and thats had a lot of development work as it is. Looks neat though - 8 injectors :onfire:

Yeah, but when did she ever have any taste?

You'll have to get that Ford sticker off it first ;) Ohh, a ford sticker I'll pay double :shock: :D :D :D Got halfords proffesional stuff and Its pretty good. I've broken a lot of it though, mainly through abuse - hitting spanners with lump hammers and using very long extensions and adapters with very small sockets. Always replaced with no problems though - broke their 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor 3 times in 1 day once. Draper make some reasonable priced stuff too. Actually I could do with a second set of spanners.... Hmmm

Dont you mean remove heads? The atom had such a crappy lap too, easily faster than the enzo, but I doubt its faster than a turbo busa dax rush.

Meh, only in third or below, whats the problem? Have you checked tyre pressures (I assume you've got good tyres) had the geometry checked, new bushes, reasonable fresh shocks springs on already? Changing the suspension for aftermarket stuff will always see an improvement over 10 year old standard stuff, even though fresh standard stuff may well be exactly what you need. Bear in mind its slippy out there and FWD was never the best for putting the power down.

It'll be the linkage somewhere - if you'd done a selector fork you'd have more than 3rd left

Not to mention everyone who knows anything about them knows they only came in green, a colour you couldnt have on a standard calton, plus you cant get the rims.

Don't do it. Spend the money you save on a regular oil changes and GOOD oil with an OE filter. Good gear oil is good too, aditives arent.

That'll be new engine or strip and re-build then, most likely with new top end bits, and possibly bottom too. I saw a couple of cally turbo's in a scrappy round here if you need a new engine.

He he, did you ever take any pics of the crap inside your pump when we dismantled it?

Arent most outside air temp sensors on cars under the front bumper at road levelish ?

Yes, no headgaskets (there were soem made but the definately arent any head bolts anywhere), chipped ones melt pistons and overheat doing the headgasket (all the companies that offered chips didn't uprate the injectors which are on the limit anyway. Chipping the ecu is a bad idea too as the socket for the chip is easily damaged and you'd have to goto aftermarket management if you did that as theres no spares available. The brakes are huge, and expensive. 4 discs and 8 pads will cost you £2k plus vat plus fitting. Body panels are plentiful - standard carlton but the body kit is impossible to find, as is finding soemone to spray the bits the right colour. Turbo's can be overhauld easily enough though, and the block is a bored 3lt from the gsi so can be replaced, still no headgaskets tho :shock:

thats not good, I assume you mean water

Hydraulic tappets dont like crappy oil, although if you've got oil strainer probs then bearings and bores are likely to go before the top end. You may have a blocked oil gallery in the head. Have you taken the cam cover off and turned the engine over on the starter to see if its getting oil - bear in mind it may go everywhere. Old turbo'd cars need very regular oil changes as passing a lot of oil through the turbo bearing knackers it pretty quickly. A flush may help, but if the strainer is blocked the oil pressure would be low. Might be worth checkign the oil pressure with a guage to see if that is the case. If it is blocked then the engine will most likely need to come out and be overhauled - I dont think you can do that much in situ on the 4wd versions but I may be wrong.

Except one :shock:

Not really, theres no engine tuning allowed in the seloc series and very little mods other than the safetey kit, If you raced a pug 205 you'd have to spend a lot on tuning and engine building etc. The saftey kit for the 2 cars is prety much the same cost.