Scruffythefirst

Dont run it too long when its badly rich, you'll need a new set of rings and a rehone sharpish if you do :cry:

i always thought the rev limiter just cut the spark? Some rev limiters just cut the spark, typicaly every other firing for a soft cut and every spark for a hard cut. Some also cut the fuel by not turning the injectors on so you dont get unburnt fuel in the exhaust which wouldn't do the cat any good.

Well you know what I think happened :D :roll:

The clip next to the head was a pain to get off, the prongs to compress it were facing the wrong way and I ended up having to cut it in half with a dremmel and using a rather large pair of pliers to get it off. Everything went back on ok though and no leaks so far :mrgreen: :mrgreen: His driving still worries me from time to time though :shock:

Petrol, always use petrol.

Did you take the one of the front suspension in the end? Today i will mostly be offroading :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Do a google search for megasquirt - cheap fully functional ecu that is the dogs danglies

I know of one guy who took a 230k XE, stuck a QED 208 bhp kit on it and thrashed it senseless in a westfield for 4 years. Theres absolutely no rust on my L plate 92k mile cavalier either.

Not true, the original 2lt 16v vauxhall engine (20XE or C20XE engine codes) were the best motorsport engine ever (after cosworth mrgreen: ) and the C20LET (cav/ cally turbo) was based on that engine with lower compression and different cams. The VX220 engine was developed from the ecotec that was a very castrated version of the original engine to meet emmision requirements. They are not the same engines at all. The original C20LET engine can be tuned to over 600bhp (C20XE - normaly aspirated is good for nearly 260bhp) and in a rally preped astra or nicely sorted cavalier will munch most simmilarly prepped cars of its age.

Bear in mind brand new springs will take a little while to bed down - common problem with westfields on new springs is they can't get the ride height low enough, usualy takes a few months to settle down.

Helps to jack the car up slightly and change the oil when the engine is up to running temp. Give a bigger incentive not to have it run down your arm though. Dealer filters are usualy better than pattern ones, but you can get extra good ones. Its all about how much filter material they have in them, not really what the case is made of.

Had a nightmare getting dinkus' off when we did his top mounts. Broke 2 socket adaptors, and one socket. You can see the results in the how to guide for the top mounts (i think). Invest in a 4ft 1/2 inch breaker bar and a set of 1/2 inch impact sockets if you plan on doing any work on an old car. If you cant shift a bolt (or shear it) with that then you'll need air tools :(

I dont know much about dub 4wd systems, but i cant see a reason why you can't change transfer boxes so long as you've got both front and rear diffs the same ratio.

They should do, if they dont go soemwhere else. Cant see why you'd want to solder in a new chip and risk cooking it when a chip holder costs sod all, plus you only want to do the soldering once. On the rack - no idea :D

When you get it chipped, just ask to keep the standard chip, or if it gets damaged removing it, get them to burn you another standard one and then it should just be a case of removing the schrick and poping the original chip back in. Chips are generaly over priced because soemone had to put a car on the rollers (or road) and map the new fuel requirements. They then whack the price up, your much better off spending the money on rolling road time and getting a chip for the same price as you would have paid, but suited exactly to your car. The uni chip sounds like a good idea, but isnt any cheaper than a eprom from a good rolling road which works in the way the factory intended. Theres also no real need for a aftermarket management unless you need extra load points, running soemthing so different to standard that you have no choice or you really know what your doing and have all the associated kit to go with it (wideband, det cans etc)

Isn't a new eprom just a chip? Ie once you've paid for the original chip all you need is the rolling road time and then burn a new chip - which should cost less than £10 and it should just slot in. With cosworth ecus (magnetti marelli) once you've unsoldered the chip for the first chip, changing to another chip takes 10 seconds. They cost peanuts to burn - you can do them from your home pc easily enough

Why?

Not sure how good VW ecu's are, but if it were my money I'd go for a live mapped new eprom. Not a rolling road eprom and the unichip just sounds like bad news. Remember running too rich will kill an engine just as quick as running lean.

All from a metal disc with 2 prongs and a handle? Why didn't you buy me one like that, all mine does is wind back calipers :mrgreen:

I've just stripped a pair of 140,000 mile ford rear calipers that use exactly the same system and they are in perfect condition, the handbrake mechanism slides beautifully, and the pistons themselves look brand new. £67 :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: You was robbed :oops: :mrgreen:# To be fair, fwd cars only use about 10% rear braking. Which would explain why it isn't that much of a problem when they seize

I bought the exact tool for doing the rear corrado brakes from halfords for £15. Actually says for corrado's golf's and ford sierras on it. Very handy

doesnt it hold the abs rotor at the back of the disk by pushing through it into the rear bearing aperture?

It will only have taken one combustion stroke to heat that bolt up red hot - volume to SA ratio and all that.

How do you know there isn't damage to the valve yet? Have you taken them out? If it hasn't come in through the valve, how on earth did you manage to run the engine for more than 10 seconds without hearing it?

Just had another look at the pics, that's small enough to get through the valve i'm sure. It also looks like it's got a lock washer still attached, which doesnt bode well from where ever it came from. Plus if you think of the speed of the airflow through a valve as its opening, it doesnt need a lot of time to drop through, it'll get sucked through pretty quick.