Scruffythefirst

Just buy a ball joint splitter. theyre not expensive and will save damaging anything else. Once they're lose you can jack the hub up and the wishbone should fall downwards freeing the hub so you can get the driveshaft out. If your goign to reuse the balljoint make sure you dont damage the rubber boot otherwise it'll last less than 5 minutes

Did anyone catch the advert for BBC radio just before top gear - I'm sure there was a corrado in it. Porsche feature was superb

I had exactly the same problem on a sierra today. You won't like my solution though...... Got the forklift to prize it open.... :evil: :shock:

Really :shock: :shock: I never knew that

[ May well be a gearbox inner bearing or gearset problem then. How loud is the whine?

My cossie head has some holes like that - i think they were used to hold it while machining bits. The block has simmilar things on it. You sure its not an oil gallery drilling which has subsequently been filled (as is correct?)

If it goes away with the clutch pedal depressed it could just be the realease bearing - cost about £10 (for a ford one anyway) but a lot of labour to change (same as doing the whole clutch). If its not loud i'd ignore it. personaly wouldnt use a gearbox treatment fluid if i were you, but it's up to you.

Does it do it in every gear? If so probably a gearbox bearing. I know nowt about VW gearboxes but I'd suspect input shaft bearing.

I hope so, cos it's going to be bloody quick and downright scary. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Which is the whole point :evil: :evil:

360bhp, 650kgs, 22 with 4 years no claims - £500 fully comp. To insure the engine in its original car in original state of tune - £3500 Got to love kit car insurance - double the power, half the weight and cheap as chips.

Yeah if you like pics of my dads arse..... Normal sunny disposition will be resumed when this poxy job ends :mad: :mad: :mad:

Oh and heres a recentish pic of me putting an engine in the wrong place and my dad trying unsucesfully to prevent me from bashing the chassis with the gearbox. Not that you can really see much of me, what with the hoodie and beanie :D

Yup, he's a certified attention seeker and ho.

Well when the engines actually got proper mounts the hoist will be free. Not sure iif the engine stand will cope but we could move the whole thing to my garage and start stripping it. Alternatively i'm sure the building site next door will have a skip.

Looks good. I cheated and used a brand new block for mine! Wish I had sandblasting kit and a hottank tho :mrgreen:

I cant rememebr what lrp octane rating is of the top of my head, but i'm pretty sure the replacement stuff is a bit low. You could try octane booster but lrp won't do your cat any good (if you've got one)

it willl, but if you've never used it before it'll remove a lot of the gunk that would normaly never move. which just increases the chances of killing the oil pump, clogging the filter and oilways. Unless the engine gets it regulary from the begining it can be a disaster. It can work well but if it was my engine i wouldnt take the chance. Apparently it doesnt release all the crap in one go either - takes a couple of hundred miles to shake everything loose. By which time you'll be driving along merrily on what you think is clean oil. Some people swear by it but not me. I'd much rather do lots of regular oil changes with the oil nice and hot. If theres a lot of crap in there dropping the sump and washing it wouldnt hurt.

Dont use engine flush. Just get the car warm (hot) and then drain the oil and change the filter (again). Run it for a bit more and drain it again (prolly should change the filter again) if you can afford it. Engine flush just makes things worse on engines that haven't had a flush before.

Dont use white spirit, use strong washing up liquid / water solution and then dry it with a hot air gun or in the oven so its fully dry and warm then paint it quickly before whatever your using rusts. You can use the dishwasher but it'l rust pretty quick. If your painting ali you need to use the special primer/

Really? I admit i know piss all about vw's but all the hub nuts i've played with (VX and Ford) have had stupidly high torque requiremets - like 300ft lbs or 120nm +180 degrees!

There is a way to calculate transmission losses that involves a wind tunnel, a very large car park and some stupidly expensive equipment. Alternatively ALWAYS ingore crank figures. Or put the engine on a dyno, which is a good idea if you've just built a monster and have no idea what map you need.

Saw a green (g60?) C go up the pod today and there was a huge cloud of black smoke at the end of the run. Didn't see it back on the track after that. Hope everything is ok.

You should have seen the shit that was in dinkus' fuel filter and the filters that protect the fuel pump. Although on dissasembly the actual pump mechanism seemed fine - no wear at all.

Possibly a leaking exhaust joint soemwhere

575m and a konigseggedghseecfegggiii please.