Kevin Bacon

1. Could be the motor struggling against the wind pressure. Try lubing the sunroof runners with decent grease. Comma white grease is good for this. 2. All cars have a cumersome gearchange next to the Type R's joystick! A well setup Corrado one isn't bad though. 3. I think the overun popping occurs after the cat, but you should hear an Impreza if you think yours is bad! VRs don't have mechanical shut off valves, the ECU just pulls back the fuelling according to throttle position. You might have a leaky injector. Kev

Some brands like Compomotive and Speedline sell you wheels with ETs from 00 to 56. Other brands, I'm sure can do the same, if you ask them nicely :lol: Kev

Mine had a visible droop in it! Don't see why a VR cable won't work, try it and if it's no good, keep it in the garage ready for the beast! There is a thread on here about VR throttle cables somewhere, seems VW have been playing around with the part numbers again. Kev

I think the sensor might be on the back of the head like the 16V. The sensors on the oil filter housing usually monitor oil pressure, could be wrong though. Kev

Yeah if you're reasonable with the spanners, I agree with Chris. Shame about the weather though (if you haven't got a garage) :? I suppose the only thing you can't do yourself is press the new guides in, but you press the old ones out with a suitable drift though. All in the pursuit of saving cash! It's far more rewarding doing it yourself anyway! And you can get the dremel out and do some creative work on the ports :lol: Kev

Was the S4 the biturbo V6? Sorry I was thinking of the new shape RS4 V8, doh, but that also has 340ish bhp, hence the mistake! I was taken round castle coombe in an ABT fettled S4......it was mental. I Didn't hear the ABT rep complaining about the numb steering, though! Yours sounded like a really nice car. Shame you had to part with it :( The C must feel lethargic by comparison? Kev

The bottom line on the windows is this (according to the 1994 manual):- Passenger side - One touch lowering only. Driver's side - One touch lowering and lifting. Siamiesed fuse prevents both windows operating simultaneously. If both window switches are pressed together, one window will lower fully, then the other immediately after. Windows remain active for up to one hour after engine is switched off. Ta Kev

Speedline don't make the VR wheels in alloy anymore, just Magnesium, which is too fragile for road use. As Paul said, Speedline wheels are very expensive anyway. Compy MOs and OZ Chronos look good on Cs, as do Brocks (if you can find some) Racing Dynamics 5 spoke and Borbet C. Kev

So do you agree with the majority of motoring journos that Audi's have numb and lifeless steering? Seems to be the only thing that stops them getting 5 out of 5. Not having a pop, I just can't believe a car as sexy as the RS4 can possibly be as bad (on the steering) as they say.... Kev

No I'm afraid it means the centrifugal effect drains oil away from the oil pump.... something you need to be especially careful of in the 16V. K

VAG's vacuum C/L system is generally very reliable. When the pump motor wears it, starts getting lazy and slow to respond. I usually replace them with one from an 80s Audi 100. They slightly bigger, more powerful and quieter. Same connections etc, so it's plug-and-pray. The only other alternative is electric solenoids but do you really want your C sounding like a Cavalier when you lock it? Plus you're gonna have to strip both doors, the tailgate and the petrol flap to fit them all.......Cheaper and easier to replace the pump. Kev

What symptoms have you got to suggest the head is on it's way out? No point wasting money if it's fine. Kev

Nah, the outer body of the lights are fixed as Henny said. Light alignment isn't that precise anyway. It's just to stop you blinding people at night by pointing the offside one at the floor and the nearside one higher and to the left. Basically, if you illuminate the person in front's head at night, your offside light needs a few turns of the white knob to lower it slightly. Kev

I thought the 8 & 16V head stud patterns are different aswell, or was I imagning that during some obscure daydream about VWs? K

The Corrado is not immune from it.....

Just overtake them. Some people enjoy making a point of driving slowly. They're fully aware of the anger they are causing but due to their selfishness, if they're doing 40mph, then so should everybody else. Then they toot and wave fingers at you as you overtake like it's their personal road you're driving quickly on. Well, you're responsible for your own actions and if you get caught and booked, it's got nothing to do with Mr/Mrs Slowcoach, so he feck off and mind his own, unless of course your overtaking manouvre puts him or her in danger. My advice......don't even think about it or get stressed, not worth it. If there's a gap, take it and don't look back. K

Compared to other VW marques of that era, the Corrado was setup stiff, too stiff for some people's tastes, but it was attributable to it's excellent handling. I recommend Koni TAs all round, Neuspeed 25mm rear anti-roll bar and H&R springs. Be under no illusion, the ride will be just as harsh (if not more so) as standard over the pot holes dr_mat explained but on the open road where S bends and undulations feature, you'll notice the improved body control straight away. The standard setup tends to wallow in these conditions. Kev

Popped out to Sainsburys today for some eats, I must have literally been out on the road for 30 mins max....and saw 3 Corrados. There are far too many of them around here! Kev

Excellent, good choice of colour, not many around in that shade :lol: Just in case you ever need touch up paint or spray, don't bother with the dealer as it's obsolete. Halfords do paint mixing now and I had a large touch up bottle made up yesterday. K4U is the code. The match is very good. Just for info.... Kev

Well I've found the root cause of the late heater control failure. See attached pic. You'll see a metal spring tab. This clips onto the main plastic housing and provides the notch at each vent direction. In all the cases I've seen where the controls break, this metal tab falls off it's mount and jams under the gear wheels shown in the pic. Then of course, people tend to force the knob round and then the bowden cables snap off their mounts too :( My advice is to remove this stupid little metal tab altogether. You won't get the click stop at each direction but it's not a major issue and it's better than a not being able to direct air onto the screen during the colder months. Kev

Speaking of throttle cables.....I'd overlooked mine was saggy since I've had the car! Removed the slack and now realise what I've missed out on all these months! Wow, insant throttle response and much much better pull low down. And there was me faffing about with sensors and things.....doh! Kev

Nice example :lol:

Sorry I don't get the corner weighting thing :oops: Is it altering the spring rate at each corner so that wheels press down on the tarmac with the same pressure? Guess you can't do this with regular mcphersons? Kev

I found the easiest way was to lever two small flat blade screwdrivers on the glass side (it won't crack) under each clip and then push them off the plastic side by hand. Levering from the plastic side I found caused mashing of the plastic before they prized free. 3 along the top 3 along the bottom 2 on one side 1 on the other Gently wipe over the chromed reflectors with a soft cloth to remove residue and don't what ever you use a chemical cleaner as it'll strip the chrome plating right off, leaving a nasty yellow primer behind it. Clean up the rubber sealing strip and then stick your new glass on! Kev

Might just be the coatings on the exhaust tubing burning off? My VR6 used to have a burning smell and it was a combination of the serpentine belt giving off a hot rubbery smell and the tensioner pulley seizing up. Kev