Kevin Bacon

They're £45 now mate :lol: VW have dumped all the old TPS and replaced them with a smaller, generic one that fits old and some current VWs. Only snag is you have to find some shorter bolts as the new housing is totally different to the old one. Then you have to reset the ECU to reset the throttle's zero point, which is 14 degrees or less at idle. Max throttle should give 90 degrees or higher, but you need VAG-COM to check it :? I have a brand new TPS on mine btw and it still cuts out.... Kev

VR6 brakes are different to G60 ones. VRs have a bigger Master cylinder and no cooling ducts. Henny is right about warping. Most of the time discs warp when people hold the car at traffic lights with the foot brake. The pad absorbs the heat causing localised cooling, and thus warps the disc. That's only really a problem when the disc is wearing thin though. Kev

The ECU doesn't time stamp the faults since it doesn't have an internal clock. As Dr_mat said, the codes are stored until manually cleared or disconnected from the battery for 15 minutes. VAG-COM can be used with the engine off or when running but with the engine off, the real time measurements (throttle position, engine rpm, temperature, ignition timing, injector pulse speed, engine load etc) obviously can't be gathered. I can take some screen shots for you if required, in fact, there is a thread somewhere on here already with screen shots and basic instructions. Kev

The engine speed sensor is actually £140+VAT, so they're not leading you up the garden path. Kev

A lot of VRs do that, mine included. I've replaced the idle valve and it still does it. The vane inside the ISV tends to stick, even on new ones. Kev

LOL, I've been wondering where she's been going every weekend :lol:

Just pull the plugs out mate and check for a uniform colour across all 6. If they're all the same colour, it's a good sign things are normal. They should all be grey with a light brown coating around the centre electrode. If one or more are lighter, the mix is too weak, if one or more are black and powdery, too rich. If one or more are wet with oil.....££££s. Kev

http://www.speedlinecorse.co.uk Ta Kev

Thanks for the warning! I won't be going down that road then..... VAGs own rack has naturally been discontinued but I think theirs was thule anyway. Kev

Ah, shame. They had quite a demand for them at the last Crowthorne GTI international. Hmmm, looks like ebay could be your last hope :? Kev

It can be a pain to set and it loses the setting when the engine is turned off anyway. Kev

Nope, doesn't have much of an effect on the VR, a few ponies if you're lucky. The VW exhaust system is not that restrictive for NA cars but as Steve said, it's the blown motors that notice it the most. For example, my mate with his 2000 WRX fitted a Hayward & Scott front pipe, cat bypass and rear box and found a genuine (dyno proven) 30bhp. Kev

I think Montys wheels still sell them.... don't know his URL/number, try google. Kev

Juddering indicates a dry spot on the runners somewhere and a stiff mechanism overall. Get that grease out! You might also want to check for vertical play when the roof is tilted. Kev

Yep, thule, and it costs a fortune!! I priced it up at Halfords once as I needed to carry three mountain bikes. You need 4 x feet, some special 'short roof' adapter kit and the 2 rails.....plus, in my case, 3 cycle carriers. It would have come to about £300 in total. So I bought a normal hatch carrier instead, and chipped some paint off the spoiler :? Kev

I wasn't going to comment on this because I think putting uprated springs on standard dampers is dangerous, but I didn't want to cause an argument. But as you have mentioned H&R and Koni, I'll stick my oar in as that's the kit I use, along with a Neuspeed rear ARB. It's my personal favourite setup, used that alliance for years with good results. It's a little harsh over rough urban roads but only slightly more so than standard, but it's out on the open road where it all gels together beautifully. The rear ARB takes care of front wheel pitching and the konis and H&Rs keep the bodyshell in check and planted to the road. It's a dependable setup that gives no nasty surprises. Think carefully about this setup if you plan on fitting 17s. It works best on 15s imo. I would also replace all of the suspension bushes whilst you're there. It's no use fitting quality dampers and springs if the the bushes are knackerered. If you want a crisper and more responsive turn in and stronger braking, try some vibratechnics rear wishbone bushes. Kev

I believe the G60 only reports ABS status/codes. I know I've not been able to get my VAG-COM to talk to Supercharged's 92 G60 at least. Also, the early lead is just an adapter, you also need the OBD2 lead :? Kev

MK2 Golfs used red ATF fluid but Corrados use some green stuff (light oil I believe). Is it worth draining and refilling as my PAS pump has recently started whining really loudly when cold. I know they normally whine a bit, but not like this! Stealth reckoned I could mess up the pump if I run it dry, but having never done it before, I don't know any different. Kev

The crank sensor is £140+VAT if it needs replacing :? Phat, did you notice any adverse effects by ditching the TB coolant hoses? Why did VW feel the need to heat the TB anyway? To stop icing? Regarding you breather, have you just vented it to a catch tank somewhere? The TB heatshield sounds like a wise plan, I've already made one for the ISV damper pot, which has helped a bit. Just things I've been considering also! Ta Kev

N90553202 - 82 pence. They bend and break quite easily. Kev

Speedline-Corse is the manufacturer. Your wheels are model 2108. Just looked on their website :lol: Kev

The sulphur smell is normal, especially in the winter when the cold runnin cycle is on for longer. Are you sure the rattle isn't the external heat sheild? Kev

Arse.....I would have had them if they were 5 spoke :( What model are they do you know? Kev

You might get some whirring and camshaft rattle first thing in the morning for a minute or so, but when hot, there shouldn't be any loud noises eminating from the gearbox side of the block/head. When you do hear this noise, press the clutch pedal down and see if it goes. If it does, it's clutch/gearbox bearing related. The tappets can also make a lot of racket, especially if you're using really thin oil. As a rough idea, I checked my upper tensioner at 83K and it was only just showing signs of pitting on the plastic strip. Some wear so bad that the rivets break off and the plastic strip ends up in the sump. I've got around 20K left before the tensioner needs doing. Kev