Kevin Bacon

Regarding the big bore exhausts you do, what size is the VR6 one? 2.5"? What are the advantages of increasing the tube diameter? Cheers Kev

I'm in.. Kev

Mine uses it progressively, roughly a litre every 5000 miles. The lowest consumption oil I ever used was Castrol RS 10/60, but they don't make it any more. Mobil 1 15/50 Motorsport is a close second, followed by VAGs own silver quantum. That's just what I've found over the years, but no two engines are the same, so results may vary. Kev

Don't be a plum. Everybody knows tyres, exhausts etc are wear items. HT leads either conduct electricity or they don't. They don't 'wear out'! Stevemac, haven't got a scanner, the cat knocked it off the shelf and smashed the glass, but just for you....I'll type out the pertinent bits. As for replacements, try some Magnecor. Pretty good. And I quote "Blue igniter wire sets are warranted for as long as you own your car, van, or light truck. If, during ownership of your car, van or light truck, the Blue igniter wire set becomes defective, it will be replaced by your participating blue igniter supplier (C&R enterprises), upon presentation of this warranty claim form, original proof of purchase and product being warranted (the leads). This limited warranty does not cover: - Wire sets that have been subjected to misuse, rodent damage (LOL), accident, or improper installation, maintanence or application. - Wire sets installed on a car, van or light truck used for commercial purposes in excess of 8,000 pounds gross vehicle weight (???)." Ta Kev

Precisely. I've read the disclaimer of my BI leads and if they ever malfunction, no matter how old they get, they will be replaced FOC, no questions asked. K

Was the Corrado actually recalled like the MK2? I know I've asked this before, but whilst it's fresh in my mind! Mine hasn't got the recall valves, just curious. Cheers Kev

If you take the idle valve out and look at all the black crud that builds up on the internal vane, that could have something to do with it. My old 16V used to do exactly the same thing. Kev

That's the fella :lol: K

Hey that's my car! Looks just like it :lol: K

It doesnt necessarily have to be colourful - my matrix is definately leaking and yet is no specific colour but the water does feel greasy which gives the game away.... smells like anti freeze too That's what I was trying to explain....plain water is easily distinguishable from coolant tainted water. Kev

LOTS of extra money! Depends how far you want to take it. Stealth's Turbo conversion kicked out 405lb/ft torque, which is an incredible amount by anyone's standards. More than a Noble 3.0, more than a 360 modena....but in a FWD corrado? Dicey, very dicey. From stealth's site:- Corrado VR6 Turbo The inherent strength of the VR6 motor makes it an ideal basis for a hard charging project car. Continuing our partnership with EIP Tuning USA, a full scale turbo conversion doubled the output of the 6 pot, making this Corrado a devastating performer. 2.9 12v VR6 - - compression ratio lowered to 9:1 - - Wills rings - - Race Ware head studs - - Garrett T4 turbo with integral wastegate - - Turbonetics rising rate fuel regulator - - G-Reddy blow off valve - - EIP triple nozzle fuel injectors - -additional in line fuel pump - - Setrab oil cooler - - Spearco intercooler - - 2.5" Jetex exhaust system retaining catalytic convertor - - re-mapped ECU 370bhp with 405lb/ft - adjustable boost 10-15psi Stealth / Gemini 6 speed gearbox - - Quaife limited slip diff - - Centreforce dual friction clutch - - steel driveshafts - - nitrided EM19 cages in CV joints - - steel front drive flanges K

Spot on. I used that too, it's excellent. If not, use some washing machine soap powder in hot water....works even better. K

Blimey boys.... some top notch dash mods there :lol: K

Once the metal recall valve activates (there's a plastic one and a metal one), it stays locked shut and you need to replace it. Kev

My VR ones were totally shafted at 78K! K

Check the top sensor on the oil filter housing, if it's seeping oil, it's gone. Kev

The carpets come out easily from a Corrado. Make sure you remove the large plastic carpet retainer nuts from under the dash area first. They're basically the ones that hold the bottom of the shelfs in place. Obviously the seats will need to come out too, but again, they're easy to take out. What a PIA, good luck. K

The things you learn on this forum, eh? Good stuff :lol: K

Just nip it up, 11lb/ft. K

I'd prefer to turbo a 24V VR6 to be honest. It's a better engine than the 12V. K

Cheesy mate, the sunroof drain channels are at each corner of the subframe. Unfortunately you need to drop the headliner :( Haven't you got sunroof issues too? Might be a good time to drop the liner (it's easy, but akward) and see what gives. When the liner is down, you will see the white plastic drain tubes. Also, the sunroof panel liner has water drain channels in it, so that must be in place, but I'll assume it is. It must also be fitted tightly. Here's what I'd do mate. Drop the liner. Get in the car and get someone to blast the car with a hose and see if you can see water coming in from somewhere. Don't spray the roof when the headliner is down otherwise you'll get soaked, unless you put the panel trim back on first. Is your windscreen seal tight agains the metalwork? Have a look under the plastic trims under the wipers too. If absolutely nothing comes in under these conditions, it must be the matrix. Kev

If you're unlucky the Glader might break but by and large, it is a reliable and solid engine. I drove around in Supercharged's G60 yesterday and really enjoyed it, doesn't feel fragile at all. His is still on the original charger at 84K and still pulling 170 brake, with the smoothest torque curve I've ever seen on any engine. Nice. Kev

No worries mate. Well, think of it like this. The cam sensor and crank sensor are essentially the same - a magnet - but the crank sensor has a foot or so of wire on it too. Now, the cam sensor costs £30, the crank sensor £140ish. The engine will run without a cam sensor in emergency mode but it won't run (or will run VERY badly) without a crank sensor. Now you can see why the crank sensor is 5 times the price of the cam sensor, because it's essential! Many people don't even know when the cam sensor dies, but you sure as hell know when the crank sensor gives up the ghost. Kev

The engine speed sensor is on the far right side of block, next to the bell housing. Follow the lower of the two wires from the front engine mount to the sensor. 5mm allen key to remove it. They are about £140ish but I can't remember if that excludes or includes VAT. Might be worth checking on the CCGB discounted parts list and I'd get it VAG-COMd firsy anyway, just to be 100% sure. Kev

hmmm strange one that.......my 95 Storm has what appears to be an iron block :? :? Maybe he's ex VW Motorsport and knows the whereabouts of a secret stash of alloy VR blocks? K