stevemac

My tank breather is black. :shock: Tank breather is easy to find - just trace it back to the bulkhead. 3 fuel pipes are all grouped together - feed, return & breather. Just tuck the breather inside the hole in the inner wing, next to the air filter.

No worries m8 - internal pump failure is quite a common problem with K-Jetronic injection. Hope you get it sorted .. :wink:

Good cold air feed into the air filter area - great if you have a cone filter (like me) 8)

Loose or missing screw from the cambelt cover ??

This is the fixed idler pulley - from memory, I'm sure mine's held on with an allen bolt .. :shock: Difficult, but can be removed in situ. If you get completely stuck - the only way to fully access it is to remove the alternator & supercharger. This will give access to the supercharger bracket, which should also be removed. The pulley is bolted to the supercharger bracket.

I'm gonna change the oil & filter next week, as soon as I get the car back to Birmingham. Then I'll stick another 500 miles on it & change the oil again just before I go to LeMans in June. The "rich" fuel mixture is one of the reasons that I wanted to get the car to G-Werks as soon as possible. Usually, I would have run the engine for around 500 miles to "bed" everything in before having it set-up correctly.

I'm happy today - car passed it's MOT yesterday morning & I drove it 180 miles to G-Werks in the afternoon. Engine was very low on power when I set off - new piston rings, head & charger still to bed-in properly. As I got nearer & nearer the power started to increase. Fuel consumption also improved as the miles increased. Car is still running very rich - first 50 miles took 1/4 tank of fuel, next 100 miles also used 1/4 tank. Looks like the piston rings were just starting to seal. Steady 70mph all the way there to keep it under 3000rpm Daz & Steve (G-Werks/Pitstop) are gonna work some magic on it this week & hopefully I'll have chance to collect it next weekend. That was the first time I'd driven the car since last September - it felt great. I'd forgotten how well it handles. The trip to G-Werks was kind of like like driving an underpowered go-kart.. :D Can't wait to get it back & fully run-in.

JBOB, from what you say, I would be 95% certain that your internal fuel pump is completely dead. I think we sell them for about £20'ish. Fairly easy to fit, it fastens to the fuel level sensor in the tank. Access hole is under the rear seat base. You may need 3 x "OOO" size steel jubilee clips to re-attach the fuel pipes - you'll see what I mean when you lift the rear seat base. Here it is - 18389 FUEL PUMP-IN TANK CO 16V 9/88 > £19.95 + vat Change this as soon as possible & you may also need another new relay - your current relay will only last a few miles with the increased amount of amps put through it, caused by this dead pump.

Looks like the one to me - at that price, I'd change it anyway even if only to eliminate that from the possibilities. If the relay cures your problem - the real problem will be the internal fuel pump in your petrol tank. It's quite common for these pumps to fail. This causes extra strain on the external fuel pump & the relay needs to draw more current - this is why the relay will have begun to burn out. In a nutshell - if the relay cures the problem, change the internal fuel pump as well or the new relay will soon also burn out.

Looks okay to me

Looks like your clutch slave cylinder to me. One pipe & one bleed nipple. No idea what the string's for though

I had a similar problem on my old Scirocco (similar injection system). Turned out to be a sticking valve in the fuel distributor. If your car starts to develop a misfire at low revs - chances are you may have the same problem. If it's not that, I'd be checking the fuel pump relay too. When they start to go, they often give symptoms as you describe.

Nice idea, I didn't think of that - I could paint some teeth on it - like on some of the WW2 fighter planes .. :lol:

Have you checked the compression ? If the "wierd tinny noise" only happens when you step on the throttle, the timing may have become too far advanced. The cause of this would need investigating.

Tested the brakes today - fairly spongy .. :mad: Front calipers need bleeding & one of the bleed nipples has sheared off. Gonna drill it out tomorrow night & I'll heat-up the other side to make sure that doesn't shear as well, when I unscrew it. Still running very rich (as I expected) but hopefully it'll pass the MOT when I take it to the garage next week. Engine is no where near as lumpy on idle now & revs very well. I've not driven the car on the road yet but I've been running the engine just to let everything "settle down". Standard front bumper & grille have been re-fitted for now - I spent a bit too much already. RS2 bumper, new grille & new intercooler will be fitted later this summer - when my finances have recovered .. :lol: Here's a piccy of the cooler, in one of it's possible mounting positions -

Not yet, haven't had time. I'm gonna run the car for approx 500 miles & then get it re-chipped. New charger, cylinder head, piston rings, etc are still a little tight. I want to have the car rolling roaded before I fit the cooler & then again afterwards. Then I'll be able to say exactly how much difference it makes. I doubt I'll have time to get the car to a rolling road before I go to LeMans in June. It's likely to take that long to set-up the adjustable cam timing to where it best suits the new cam.

Cost me £150 last year for a pass side seal .. :shock:

Sounds like your fan's knackered. Mine was doing the same - new one cured it completely. Fan motor & blades come all as one unit.

Welcome to the forum m8. I wouldn't part with my engine for less than 2.5k, but you should be able to pick a standard one up for a lot less than that.

No worries m8 - glad you got sorted .. 8)

Found the marks on my flywheel this evening. Front pulley is spot-on, although it should be - I've just finished rebuilding the engine .. :D Flywheel marks took a bit of finding - even when I knew I was in the right area.

I used to work for VW & one of my mates is a VW Aftersales Manager at a different dealer .. 8)

Nice one - I'll have a look tomorrow .. :crazyeyes:

Henny, Any chance of a piccy of the G60 flywheel mark ? I've timed mine up using the front pulley & just want to know what I'm looking for on the flywheel. I had to use emery cloth to clean up the flywheel on my turbodiesel before I could see the timing mark on that .. :shock:

Centigrade or Farenheit ? European spec stuff is measured in Centigrade - US stuff could well be Farenheit