stevemac

Finished building the engine today... :D Just need to get a new battery tomorrow & hopefully it'll start. I've stuck the standard intercooler back on for now - until I can get hold of some pipework to plumb-in the front mount. Found an old oil feed pipe for my charger which will have do, until the new pipe arrives. Few bits to sort out for the MOT over the next week or so & then I'll be back in business.. 8)

Essentially there's 2 ways of setting the timing - the right way & the wrong way. Did the garage disable the ECU corrective timing mechanism before setting the timing ? Surprisingly few non-VW specialists are aware of the correct proceedure !! If the ECU corrective timing wasn't disabled when the timing was set - this will be your problem. Get the cambelt checked first though - make sure it hasn't jumped a tooth. Just a thought - did they re-connect the blue temp sensor after setting the timing ?? (fits into water hose connection sticking out of the front of the cylinder head)

http://www.samcosport.com/distributors.asp

Should come in real handy if the US launches a missile strike in the middle east - I've heard their aim isn't very accurate...... :lol:

We sell the pulleys - when you order them, specify that you want the "INA" type. INA also make the OE pulleys... :wink:

Yeah - I'll stick some piccys on here as soon as I've fitted it. I need to get hold of a Golf G60 charger outlet (U-bend), so that I can gauge the exact position that the cooler needs to be mounted. I'm gonna try to mount the cooler as high as possible, to keep the boost pipes as short as I can.

It's from the new Mercedes Vito van......... :shock:

Tattie, Take the belt off & feel the pulley bearings. If the pulleys have any play in the bearings - that's likely to be the problem... :wink:

Cleaned up all the engine bay earthing pints & added a few more. Just need to get hold of a Golf G60 U-bend so that I can finish the pipework for my cooler. Then it'll be ready for "firing up" .. :rambo:

If I were you, I'd stick with the G60.... :wink: I'll be keeping mine & wouldn't even consider swapping it for ANY of the other Corrado models.... :mrgreen:

Wayhey - new cooler arrived today......... :D

Here you go guys - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 370#248370

Riley, Banging could be your exhaust knocking against the rear axle beam - exhaust mountings may need "adjusting"

If you look under the back of the car, the bottom shocker mounting bolts are easy to see. These bolts (1 on each side) can be accessed fairly easily while the car is still sat on the road. Just loosen them maybe 1 full turn, bounce the car to re-seat the bushes & then re-tighten.

_leon_, If your engine moves at all when revved - you need a solid aluminium front mount.

Manifold & front pipe must be removed from the engine bay - there's no room between the subframe & bulkhead to get the frontpipe out from underneath. If you're going to fit a 4-branch manifold/front pipe, you must also fit a solid front engine mounting. The 4-branch has no flex in it & will crack easily if the engine starts to rock in it's mountings.

Best locking wheelstuds on the planet - spare keys available too.... :shock:

Nice one.... :wink:

Shilakadaddy, Creaking at the back may just be the bottom shocker bushes. Loosen the bottom shocker mounting bolts slightly & bounce the car a couple of times before re-tightening the bolts. Do not jack the car up to do any of this - tightening the bolts with the rear end jacked up will cause these bushes to creak.

billinjahg60, what type of locking studs do you have ? Some main dealers have a set of master keys for some of the types available. When you get some new ones - get the "McGard" type from Halfords - spare keys can be ordered for these.

Coilovers are designed to be used with the standard top mounts.. :wink:

You won't need the VW rear bumpstops - your coilovers will have the bumpstops built into them. Worth changing the rear top mounting rubbers though.

Nice one - hopefully he'll make a career out of burning the rest of them... :lol:

2 weeks & counting.....lol No idea what difference the cam & pulley will make, I've done a complete rebuild & fitted many other parts at the same time. I would advise anybody who is fitting a fast road cam to also fit an adjustable pulley. Fitting the cam alone will move the max torque of the engine further up the rev range. Altering the adjustable pulley will either move the max torque back to where it used to be or even further up the rev range - depending on whether the pulley/cam timing is advanced or retarded. With the work that I've done, I have little idea whereabouts in the rev range the max torque will be. I've fitted the pulley so that I can finely adjust where the max torque occurs. I'm expecting my new intercooler to arrive at the beginning of next week & that is the last part of the "jigsaw".

As a quick remedy, spacers may/may not temporarily sort your problem. If your rear axle is misaligned, you'd be better to get this sorted & cure the cause, not the symptoms. Had a similar problem on my G60 when I bought it. I checked the rear axle bushes, which were okay & then adjusted the axle so that it sat centrally. There is a small amount of sideways adjustment which can be done by loosening the chassis mounting brackets on the rear axle. As Kev says - check your rear wheel bearings first, it could just be that one side has worn badly.