stevemac
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Everything posted by stevemac
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http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight=
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No worries m8 - hope you get it sorted.. :wink:
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I posted some wiring diagrams on here a few weeks ago - use the "search" feature at the top of this page - original thread was by chubbybrown
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Can happen with some exhausts - just a charachteristic. Could also be that they haven't sealed the front pipe properly though.
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Looks good but price is ridiculous
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Too expensive & carb versions are way underpowered - dissappointing to drive. Hold-out for a 1.8i - accelleration is great with instant throttle response. My old one used to pull all the way to the red line - even in 5th gear. Only car I've ever owned that would pull to the red line in 5th. Should be able to get a 1.8i Scala with colour coded bodykit for around £500
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Two Chassis Numbers?! Any body seen this before?! 92 G60
stevemac replied to juloesG60's topic in Engine Bay
Not sure about VW but Mercedes supply new shells made to retain the original chassis number. Once a Merc has been reshelled, the chassis number doesn't change, the vehicle still retains the original chassis number. Maybe VW do things differently ?? -
Fit a smaller charger pulley ??
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Could be the tank has a hole in it, towards the top ? My old Scirocco had this problem.. :(
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External pump usually gets noisy soon after the internal pump has failed. It's likely that replacing just the internal pump, inside the fuel tank & external filter will cure your noisy external fuel pump.
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G60 Bob, Whoever you spoke to at GSF is sadly mistaken - late G60 pumps run at 4bar & will never be superceeded to a 3bar pump. So far as I'm aware we now have stock of the 4bar pumps. Wether you'll need to replace the fuel level sensor will depend on the make of pump that you have - we sell Pierburg pumps & these are not compatible with the Bosch senders. G60's with the 15 gallon tank ALL have internal 4bar fuel pumps - it's the 12 gallon tank version which has the external one.
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:lol: :lol:
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So are Jabbasport interested in G60's again ??
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ECU only retards the timing in relation to the mechanical setting... :wink: If your timing is too far advanced, it will need retarding by adjusting the distributor. Best thing to do is to manually set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC & leave it like that until you can get the car set up properly
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You might like to re-word the question - not sure what you mean.
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No problems at all - they'll work fine with standard pads
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Dead easy - spray some WD40 over the gasket while the engine is running. The engine revs will pick-up if the gasket is leaking. Don't be tempted to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner instead of WD40 - they're too flamable & may catch fire.
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Pass side - drill out the upper bolt & lever the carrier down to loosen the lower bolt. Drivers side - drill out the lower bolt & lever the carrier upwards to loosen the upper bolt. Alternatively, as Timo says - hammer a slightly oversized spline key into the allen bolt head, this will make the bolt easier to unscrew.
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The spokes on my new ones will be black - to suit the car colour.
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16vg60 (John Mitchell Racing) sells solid aluminium front engine mounts - much cheaper than the Vibra-Technics ones.
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Jonester, Revving at idle (hunting) is usually, not always, caused by either a vacuum leak or an air leak. When the engine drags air in, possibly from a leaking inlet manifold gasket, it will display symptoms as you describe.
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Codo93g60, Welcome to the forum m8 Start looking for your problems by re-checking what your friend has done to it. Then check the DIY section on http://www.snstuning.com
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US spec G60's have a few differences to the European ones... :wink:
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I scrubbed all of mine with a "green panscrubber" & washing-up liquid. Then I stuck them back in the engine............ :mrgreen: As Kev says, for an ornamental finish - Solvol Autosol is the "daddy"
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Here we are - 62424F BRAKE DISC-REAR X DRILLED CO VR6 8/91 > £36.50 each + vat AFAIK - made by Zimmermann