stevemac

Not sure about any extra wires but the main (black) knock sensor wire should come with it. Be extremely careful not to overtighten the new sensor - not sure of the precise tightening torque, maybe somebody else on here can help with that. If this sensor is overtightened, your car will run very badly.

Get yourselves some drilled Brembo front discs from German, Swedish & French. I've had them on my G60 for about 7k now - totally silent, no droning at all. Cheaper than original VAG ones too. 8) I agree with aide about the wheels though - fitment sounds a bit strange. 17" wheels won't usually cause a problem, so long as they fit properly. Also check your rear wheel bearings as these drone quite loudly when they're worn. Unlike the front ones, the rear bearings will drone constantly wether cornering or in a straight line.

Fit the wheel bolts too - to hold the hubs/discs together. Or the little disc retaining screw will snap, mine did :cry:

Here you go guys :- http://www.syclone.freeserve.co.uk/rivals.htm

ReggiePerrin - genuine VW G60 bushes retail at approx £37 + VAT each. Not sure on cost of VR ones though.

Well, not quite a new axle - I've located another G60 one, not quite so bent as mine. :lol: Gonna shotblast & recoat it here at work. After having removed the old bushes first :silly: I hear that the old bushes can be a b*****d to remove but if I hit any problems we have a gas-axe here that I can use. 8) Or will I need a "special tool" ? Cheers

Just trying to source one at the mo :wink:

39 inches to a meter m8 If you look at the ECU (next to wiper linkage on pass side) it's the fairly narrow braided pipe attached to it.

MOT should pick up on them if they're worn - not always. My G60 had an MOT last month & passed with knackered bushes !! I know mine are very worn because I've already looked at them & they are definitely fcuked. Along with my very slightly bent rear axle.

I think the "frosted" ones look best. I don't really like the ones where the bulb is clearly visible through the lens.

cheers for the replies folks :) Steve, I'll try that on my way home... :wink: If they're just warm - that's normal If they're hot, be careful - you'll literally burn your fingers !! (I still have scars from checking mine a couple of weeks ago)

Bally - when you've been for a drive in the car, maybe 3-4 miles or so the calipers & discs will be very hot if the handbrake is sticking. Check both sides.

For the work involved, £220 is about the going rate. Will be much cheaper if you have the knowlege & expertise to remove/refit the rear axle yourself.

I'll go outside & check my G60 at lunchtime but so far as I'm aware the main pipes shouldn't go into the fuel tank. They should connect to the fuel sender unit top flange - under the rear seat but outside the tank. The pump inside the tank should just be a small plastic lift pump mounted onto the fuel level sender unit. The main fuel pump is mounted underneath the car, close to the OSR wheel. Do these pipes go from the inside of the mounting flange to the small plastic pump ??

OMG - mine's due at the end of March. :(

One of my dad's mates used to have a Saab 900 turbo - C reg. A real flying machine from what I remember. I was gonna buy it when I was 17 but the insurance company just laughed at me :(

TajMan - I can't see any of your pictures

Welcome to the forum - have a look around the site, you'll find plenty of ideas. One thing to remember is that to get the full benefit of any mods that you do, you'll need the right chip in your ECU. Initially, smaller pulley & re-map is the way to go.

Most German cars are made this way. The Germans take the (very valid) view that foglights on each side of the car could be confused with brakelights, in low visibility conditions (thick fog). Topic moved to "common questions" section.

:salute:

How to test your boost levels - 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 550-750 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 550 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 2000 and up - you need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Data courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com

Ideally they would have storred the mileage in the ECU like most other manufacturers do. Only thing I can suggest is to check the relevent section of "Auto Trader" where there are a few mileage correction adverisements. My G60 currently has around 6k on the clock although it has now done 89k - instrument cluster reset itself when I re-connected the battery after fitting my stereo system !!

I do that too.. :D

Maybe one of the wires inside the door has become loose/detatched ??

As if by magic - Henny appears :lol: Cheers m8 - I'm gonna have to remember that, or write it down (I can't even remember my own phone number :lol: )