Stone0311

Received with thanks. Cheers

Cheers guys. sankysvr6, Haven't got any running issues 'yet' as im only just gearing up to install it, bought the engine from Jeremy @ R.K about 4 yrs ago as a complete conversion;I know its got reds tops, smaller pulley (cant remember what size)and had the boost return deleted - based on what i got id say it was running stock induction and intercooler - both of which i plan to change. There could be other mods but im only going on what i can see at the min. Cheers

I'll take the chrome strut brace, cheers. Pm sent

Def Interested, PM sent

Can anybody confirm if this is an aftermarket chip? If so haven't got any experience of these - can they be re-mapped? Not sure exactly how my engine was set up before i bought it - Would it need to be? Cheers

Hi to all, Thought i should get an update on here as its been so long, C has been all wrapped up so what seems like an eternity - So...Pics below: > The the last time my C was out in anger (Bristol Volks Fest - 10.06.2007!!) > Bay lacking engine - the valver went to live in a Mk1 Cabrio > Interior - Clean but nothing exciting > 17" MOs - Just back from Pristine :) > G60 Lump awaiting some love and attention prior to install Plans: > FK Coilovers > Strip and prep engine bay > Strip, clean, paint engine and associated parts - new belts, gaskets etc > FMIC > Engine upgrades TBC - already has boost ret del, red top injectors, chip and a few other bits i cant remember

32yrs old, 14yrs with the same C :)

Ones as new as yours are going to be harder to come by too: http://www.insidermedia.com/insider/midlands/98739

Cheers Coullstar, Are those MO's in your avatar?

Hello to all, been a long time since i was last here - probably all change since then :) Does anybody know if Compomotive alloys 'have' to be fitted with metal valves? My MO5s are about to go to refurb and the company doing it have said that metal valves don't do the wheel much good as they damage the finish on installation, leading to corrosion issues etc - Im sure i heard somewhere that they had to have metal valves? Cheers

Wouldnt mind seeing some pics as well if anybody has any?

Removing the air box wouldnt be the issue - the metering head would. Dont think there is a way to loose the metering head and keep your injection system - sure sum1 on here will confirm that

walesy - PM SENt

Can anybody outline a shopping list for a conversion from a 16v to G60? From what i understand: Engine bay loom ECU Driveshafts? Brakes Obviously the lump

Have the inlet gaskets arnt that old and were ok when i had it apart, will have to check the injector seals. Can somebody confirm my thoughts here: TB obviously governs the inlet of air into the inlet system Depending on air demand the pressure plate in the metering head regulates the fuel sent to the injectors During warmup/idle the ISV delivers air into the system when tb is closed

Thats the one on the side of the throttle body? if so its all clean and seems fine No splits in the inlet section, and no leaks from around the inlet manifold/assey - tb is closed @ idle so would have thought the leak would have to be after the tb or on the ISV inlet?

Any other suggestions folks? Progress made to-date: Have now tested all of the piping to the ISV and the ISV with no luck. Pretty much run out of places to look for a leak, could this be an engine management issue?

Going to steal the ISV from my m8s valver tom eve so il see if that makes a difference. Annoyingly took that connector out coz it was damaged :brickwall: cant remember where it went now, made the loom at xmas. There is 2 red/blk to the coil, any ideas where the one with the connector on goes to?

No, as it all came from my rado i transferred it directly - it ran sweet before the move, and for 3 weeks after Air pocket - could i have done that when replacing the fuel lines? it was fine before they were replaced.

ISV cleaned and progress made. It now starts quite happily and idles at 1500 rpm before rising to 2000 rpm after about 10s. If there is still a leak i am quickly running out of places to look :scratch:

Right its the ISV :censored: If anybody has one - let me know :)

Right, all vacuum lines and connections replaced - no luck. Tried blocking off the vacuum connection from the inlet manifold (the one that goes to the servo etc) - no luck. Checked gaskets and connections within the inlet manifold assey - no luck any more suggestions? nb also now have a vacuum gauge connected and that shows idle when its at 2.5K?

Its a KR, i replaced both the delivery and return lines Where is the idle air control valve?

Recently finished a 16v conversion into my Mk1 (I know its not a rado, but im desperate) it was running sweet, started straight off the key and idled lovely as it had always done in my rado. Came to replace my fuel lines as one had split, finished that today and started it up............... After 5-10mins of running lovely it just cut out, i went to restart it and it took a while but then started and now idles at around 3K! Every time i start it now its a pig to start and then returns to idle mega high Has anybody any ideas? have to sort this out as i have my MOT on Tues morning

Love it :luvlove: , think i would rather this one tho :salute: http://www.vwvortex.com/artman/publish/ ... 2306.shtml