ABV-VR6

Oh mate, I'm sorry to read this, what a huge bummer... There's always something isn't? What transmission code is in there right now? I have a good source here for gears, pretty sure I could find you a replacement 3rd, just need the code of your transmission. CCM? I think UK didn't get same has NA right? If it was me... If the LSD is not shot then I would replace the 3rd gear and lower the boost. But if the LSD is shot I would absolutely upgrade to a 02M 6 speeds transmission. They are the best most bullet proof transmission with 2 R&P the latest being 3.94... The 02A is getting maxed out when going turbo and it's just a mater of time unfortunately. There's a company here who sells an integration kit to install a 02M that makes the transition to a 02M without headache... Not that expensive, proven and super solid. Then again, just like what I said when I started this reply, there's always something... The next thing you'll find out after your transmission is solid enough to hold your boost its the axles that will shear... I see that often here one last week again actually... 3.2/3.6 or 2.9 turbo... You need custom made axles solid enough and that's where it's getting a little more expensive. Cheers JF https://www.fablessmanufacturing.com/products/vr6-02m-complete-mount-kit-vw-corrado?_pos=6&_sid=eaaf42d68&_ss=r&variant=39886318731361

Secondary air pump and EGR are on all North American late spec Corrados. That's why I'm surprised by mine not having it! Do you in the UK? I was wrong, it is like you said, hotter inlet, colder outlet.

You are right, it does need to be hot to work. That said within certain specs. To know if your cat is plugged, you use a temperature laser before and after the cat and if there's a big difference in temperature then you know the cat doesn't breathe and is plugged. But my car came factory without secondary air pump and EGR. Never seen that in a later spec Corrado. There's no opening in the intake or hose to connect anything. And it's not a second lambda sensor, I only have one at the front. It's a sensor that only detects high or too high temperatures indicating the cat needs replacing. There's a cat red light in the cluster that will come on if it does. Only Japan got this. I have a friend with a Japanese G60, same as me. It's 100% factory and if you look at my cat part number, it finishes by H and I can't find that version anywhere! I can take a closer picture of the sensor if you're curious? Cheers

Yes, I would say that smell and heat is created by a partially plugged cat. On my Japanese Corrado, there's a sensor at the rear of the cat reading the temperature difference, when it gets plugged like that, a red light comes on the cluster marked "CAT". It's not that difficult to remove, there's 3 bolts that most likely will break off, better to replace them anyways while doing this. And on the other side it was a collar. It's simple to do but if the car is in the street it may complicate things for sure. What I have done is mostly esthetic although that grime on the outside once warmed up must smells. I have watched a few videos where people soak overnight their cat in dish soap or paint thinner to clean the inside and restore performance. I'll say the consensus is a mixed review... On the plus side it cost almost nothing to do so there's not much to loose trying I'll say. Cheers!

Thanks much appreciated! Cheers

Wish I had taken a picture prior... But it was all brown! Definitely easier to remove it if you want to do this. Rest of the line is new so the cat was definitely standing out, I had to do it! Cheers

Thanks Hasan. It's was dark brown prior, spent about 4 hours on it. I never thought it would clean this shinny, it's like a mirror. It's mostly due because it is a high quality stainless steel, magnets don't react at all with it. First I wrapped it with an old towel poured a rust remover product on it and wrapped it up with a garbage bag after to keep it moist over night. I then used 3M scotch bright white pads "light duty" and hand scrubbed it for about 3 hours. Made little squares and dipped in the same solution. At this point all was back to stainless color. Then I finished it off with an extra fine brass wire wheel on a drill and ended up with mirror finish. I've seen tons of videos where people sink their cat in dish soap or a degreaser solution to remove the carbon inside. I'm tempted to try it but it looks really clean already. I look with a flash light and I can see through easily... https://www.amazon.ca/POR-15-40704-Rust-Remover-quarts/dp/B07NRDPRR3/ref=asc_df_B07NRDPRR3/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341829452089&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12858863786455546881&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001953&hvtargid=pla-817978672955&psc=1

Yes, Leistritz was my exhaust line. It only had fine rust on the surface, amazing exhaust system. I had to drop the rear frame to get it out, the middle suit case plus the muffler were in one piece. I sold it but kept the cat. I ordered a 2-1/2" line from techtonics so the engine breathe better. Anyways I'm blown away by the state it is after all those years, it's nuts! Cheers

Alright, I'm just going to round this up in case someone in the future has a rattling shield. So yesterday I was at the dealer, VW doesn't have the fasteners for it as it was a package deal from the manufacturer "Eberspacher" who manufactured the cat converter for them. So the only way to fix this is like Shaun said above and finding a captive nut clip. I'm trying to see if I can find them in stainless steel. Bolt size is M6x1.0 by the way. On a side note, I can't believe how strong and good quality the OEM cat is. Good old German stuff! 26 years old and cleaned up really nice, no rust, impressive!

Amazing work mate, what a nice way to fix that issue. Well done!

Fendervg draw the perfect conclusion I would say. You can't go wrong with any of these, from there is a mater of taste, style, budget...

Captive nut, that's the proper word! The joy of being French speaking 🙄🤣😁. Thanks so much, that part you linked is exactly what I need. Just have to do a search on ebay with the proper wording and find the equivalent. Cheers!

Today I was cleaning up my catalytic converter... I want to keep my oem one for many reasons, it's well made and not that restrictive, not rusted out either plus I have the very rare Japan market only cat with the probe in it that wires to my cat light in the cluster. Anyways long story short, the heat shield is held by 6 bolts with 4 of them going to a clip holding a little square that slides in the clip and also is threaded to receive the bolt. Two of them are cracked in a half, 1 bolt was missing brief the perfect scenario for a rattling shield... Went on 7ZAP to find out the diagram do not provide any part number for this... I'm sure I'm not the only one who had issue with this, does anyone know the part number for those and the type of bolts used? Cheers

Thank so much, no rush mate! Really appreciate it, cheers!

Okay I've spent several hours looking into this and I'll share my results. I think I found the holy grail replacement! Readily available Bosch OE on eBay. I dug up an 11 years old thread on Corrado Club Canada, originally the thread was created because the part was expensive and the guy was looking for a match but now 11 years later we are looking for an OE part because it's NLA... So apparently the Jetta/Vento OBD1 1995 2.0L shared the same IAC. Same two prongs plug, size etc... I zoomed in on the picture, part number for Bosch is 0 280 140 551 and VAG is 037 906 457 E http://www.corradoclub.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14284&highlight=idle+valve I'm going to order one, cheers!

For real? Thanks! Let me know how much shipped to me here, probably a bubble envelope would do? Cheers

Cleaning up some parts while still waiting for my engine to be ready... While checking my IAC today I figured I should check the specs and not just clean it... Bentley says it should be between 10 and 20 Ohms. I have two, the one that came on my low miles car sits at 7.7 and the other one is 9.6 so I'm kind of surprised? Has anyone ever checked that out? Sucks because it's NLA, what to do now even if I clean it it's not going to help the situation.

I would be interested mate 😁🍻

Oh, I haven't thought of that one. Next on the list!

Wow you sure did a good job cleaning it! What did you used? On my yellowed coolant bottle, I tried hair bleach + sun, peroxide, vinegar + baking soda, what else oh ya degreaser, rubbing alcohol, paint thinner. It improved a bit but it's definitely still looking yellow. I'm thinking of trying vapor blasting next. Cheers!

Good point, I never though of capacitor and I'll look into it later today as I don't know anything about them. But what about as simple as adding a timer relay to it? It's small, can be weather proof and would fit right in by the other 3 relays for the fans. They only make them in 5 pins. If power coming in instead of constant battery 12V feed was the thermo switch power which would be turned only upon ignition. So thermo to 30. Pole 30 feeds 87A while off and that could be our timer set to 5 or 10 minutes so when ignition off it runs for the set time. Then pole 87 is triggered when the relay is energized which would turn on the auxiliary pump upon start up and at all time which I think it's supposed to be. 85 to chassis ground. Then pole 86 is left alone? What do you think mate? Am I starting to understand or I'm completely lost ha haa. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Time-Delay-Relay-12v-Automotive-Automatic-5s-10s-1min-5min-10min-Switch-Turn-Off-/313630767138?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

And more, okay now it's confirmed for the difference between early and later VR6 but still no wiring found about it. That said, at this point I think that if it wired the way early VR6 were/are, I don't see why there would be an issue. That, plus your last comment kind of convinced me. Now, I'll be working on a final wiring diagram! Cheers

That's from Dennis on the CCC forum, I think that confirms the thought and explain why your early VR didn't have the after-run mode. Still looking for more info...

I totally agree with you, that reasoning makes total sense to me!

It may be a year thing? Yours have the older style in-line thermo switch right? I wonder if you have 8 pins going to the FCM or the newer 10 pins that came with the recall or are on 93 models and up? I'll get to the bottom of this. But one things if clearer now, if you don't have it, never had it, what's the point of having it then? That's makes me second think the necessity of it!