ABV-VR6

Maybe I'm wrong but my understanding of the pump is that regardless of the engine temperature the pump will: 1) Come on while starting the car and that can be done by wiring to the thermo switch positive. That is to improve the heater core efficiency on start-up. 2) Come on at lower and high speeds fan run, easily done by wiring respectively to the low and high probes on thermo switch. That is to help moving the huge amount of coolant the Corrado contains, help flow with the smaller diameter coolant hose going to the heater core and also effectiveness. 3) Come on every time the engine is shut off regardless of the temperature or if the fans are on or off and for a 10 minutes duration. This was done after the heater core recall, the FCM was updated from 506 to 3A0 and a built-in 10 minutes timer was added to the FCM to do the after-run part of the auxiliary pump. That is there solely to move hot coolant after the engine is turned off to prevent warping of the head. Point 3 is the only one that poses a tricky problem. Maybe that's enough to just wire it via fans coming on? Maybe it's better to have it run for 10 minutes? Maybe your solution and what you're saying that the 5 degrees difference in the cool down will provide the time for the after-run function and that's enough (which I agree) anyway, that's the debate! With my limited knowledge of car electrical, the only solution I see right now if I really want that full 10 minutes after run feature would be to trigger the aux pump via a timer relay set at 10 minutes. I found old threads from this forum pre-update that talk about this without solid conclusion. I looked on vortex, all threads finish by either you don't need this (let the car idle for 2 minutes after hard drives) or VW installed it for a very good reason otherwise they would have saved the part money. I'm going to dig up the old Corrado club Canada next to see if I can find more on this. Cheers

I'm going to bed guys, it's amazing to have you around to chat. I'll be in touch tomorrow. Thanks for everything, cheers

Quick like that, the cover in itself looks too big? Maybe the fabric is too stiff also. But definitely Hasan, you need to clean up those terminals with an auxiliary fuse box, there's way too many at the pole. What's your battery group size?

Thanks mate, that's what I'm saying, I'm not good enough to understand /trouble shoot it. This is a screen shot of his set-up, worked amazing 2 fans at all time with 2 speeds. Problem is that he made it from two temperature sensors and wired straight from the battery. My drawing is my understanding of this but wired to the thermo switch instead of his 2 sensors and battery.

I don't know mate, I guess in all honesty and bluntly I tend to overthink things making it harder and I'm wondering if this is another one of those projects? It's just a FCM under a bonnet... That and also I'm ok to replicate things but not smart enough to fully understand what I'm doing with car electrical (this is my first experience) therefore doubting and I need this to be 100%. The entire loom needs to be made and I don't know the cost of it yet but probably higher than just a FCM at $40... The latest schematics based on the guy from YouTube (I like both fans at all time with speed 1 going half the speed and speed 2 is full blast) and the schematic of your auxiliary pump the way I understand what you tried to explain me. I would personally hook up only low & high (don't need it when starting the car I think) but I don't see or understand how this would make it work on after-run mode for 10 minutes like the oem FCM does? I think this is the the most important part about that pump. Timer relay? Don't know! Cheers JF

Happy to help you've helped me out with the auto swap before so it's just a return of favor. Post it up so I can see. I've been thinking of installing a sub panel just with like 6 fuses, nothing big but just enough to move away some of it like fogs, headlights, fans,amp if you have one to declutter the battery terminals...

I can't help you at the moment with this but what is the group size of your battery? I'm going to be switching to an AGM battery group 96 and I intend to make a custom jacket for it. Once I do, I'll remember to post it in your thread. It would be easy to make another one if your battery size matches mine. Cheers

Alright, just a minor update on my thinking process I guess.. My vision of a stand alone system is not as simple as I thought it would be so I'm beginning to think that I won't reinvent the wheel and just keep the damn FCM. Can't find a new OEM one but I found a new Meyle branded one and usually they make pretty decent parts. If it wasn't of the after-run pump built in the FCM, I would scrap all of it... I don't care to have quicker hot air in the cabin since the car will be a summer car exclusive but I don't want distortions in the head due to pooling of hot coolant... Looking at those videos from Charles the humble mechanic, it's as simple as it gets when you keep the FCM to wire up two electric fans. Although, I'm wondering if I should add an 30A inline fuse in the power line? How to wire it theory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeSiN2FNZoM&t=152s How to do the job: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1NKKxnHPcw&t=83s Some of my recent thinking: -The G60 didn't have an after-run built in it was actuated via a relay and a sensor. I though of retrofitting this into a VR6 but that sensor is apparently number cause for draining batteries on top of being NLA plus I could not screw it on anywhere so no go... -I bought a brand new OEM FCM non A/C for Corrado/MK3/B4, seller's only asking $10! I ordered that a long time ago since I was planning and did removed the A/C from the car, I though this would be more genuine to my delete and remove the third speed which only came on A/C and automatic models. The plug from the wiring loom won't connect to it unfortunately as "I think" this was on pre-facelift VR6 or OBD2. But what surprises me is there's no 10 pins connector at all, only the 4 standards pins for the fans. This is speculations but either the seller made a mistake and this is for OBD2 or the missing 10 pins connector is exclusively to manage the A/C and auxiliary pump and after-run. Which would mean that on a non A/C VR6 car there is a factory "stand alone" wiring just for the auxiliary/after-run pump since it was not incorporated in the FCM. https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/fan-control-module-mk3-b4-no-a-c/ More thoughts that leads to more questions... Like I said I'm just sharing my thoughts and I'll stick to the damn FCM 😉 Cheers!

Well Shaun you proved me wrong, that is definitely simple and I like that they look weatherproof too. Is your after-run still hooked up in your set-up? I will work on a diagram based from the gut on YouTube tonight and I think I'll hook up the after-run like you said. Me I would like it not to come on at ignition but only on second speed and after-run. So I would have to install a relay one terminal for power, one fir ground, one from the high speed on thermo switch but what about the after-run? And for it to start after shut down and for a certain amount of time, timer relay? Thanks for your help mate

I agree with you and I would like to have it running when the engine is turned off for a certain amount of time ( to circulate the hottest coolant out of the head) and as well when second speed kicks in because I'm assuming if there's a need for the fans to kick in second it's because it's getting pretty hot in the system.

I agree with you. But the way I saw this was when you reach the temperature, instead of starting the fan for 45 seconds and shut down and repeat the cycle again 20 seconds later when you climb that long and steep hill. The timer relay the way I saw it was not to pause the fan for 2 minutes but to make them work for at least 2 minutes. This, to minimize the frequency of the fans to kick on and off. That said, I miss understood and got clarification from someone I talked too this morning. He did not put a timer relay on the fans but on the auxiliary pump. I think if the fans where set-up lime that guy on YouTube with first speed (both fans at half speed) and second speed (both fans full speed) it should be somewhat alright. I've been told the draw a lot of amps on start-up and if they were set to only half at the first speed, that should help?

Thanks mate. I agree with you, the way the after-run comes in with the last diagram is not enough cycling and also rely on the fan wiring. The guy who did it mentioned he was not happy with the way he did it and he was supposed to post an alternative but never did... That's why I contacted him, so far nothing. Your solution for the auxiliary pump is definitely a way to make it happen. I just wish there was a way to do it without a whole bunch of wires, diodes etc... I just had a chat with a guy here, he's using the after-run relay that came factory on G60. I'll look more into it. What he didn't like is that it comes on & off too frequently and he installed a timer relay on it to fix this. I guess I can draw a conclusion that the auxiliary pump should not be wired with the fans. Now I know I need 2 systems to eliminate the FCM. Question is if it's worth it to delete or not at this point? It's the auxiliary pump that creates the "problem" and unfortunately half deleted it and say it's totally fine and the other say that they would never delete it, it was there for a reason etc... Which side of the fence to choose?

Thanks for joining the conversation. I'm assuming you have deleted the after-run pump then, and no issues? Since I've put that out there, I've been thinking, talking to people, watched videos. I want to get to the bottom of this and make it happen. FCM is an eye sore, it's NLA, the wiring is very prone to overheating (I have 3 looms and all of them the connector is burned) and there's a lot of wiring that can go away by deleting it. There's two old school way the Corrado is wired that is dangerous (FCM and headlights) which I both want to be stand alone straight from the battery. It's easy to buy a headlight loom, Spoonfed make a nice one per example. But so far no company as offered the ultimate wiring loom for the radiator. https://www.spoonfedtuning.com/collections/electrical-harnesses/products/corrado-ecode-relay-wiring-harness I completely dismantled the Phenix loom that came up with the rad fan shroud. I made the drawing on graph paper. It's basic and well made. Speed one = 1 fan and speed two = 2 fans. All with relays, temperature on and off from the thermo switch and completely stand alone with no resistors. FCM can go away with this. This is what I don't like: The fans will start full blast. The fans will kick on and off frequently. The after-run pump won't work anymore. This is what I want from the fans: 1) No resistors. The less the better. I think it can be accomplished by setting the fans in series instead of parallel. More details on this at point 2. 2) Two speeds and both working at all time so you get even cooling on the rad. This also prevent premature failure of the fan like mentioned by oneohtwo.This can be fixed along with point #1 above by hooking them up in series. I requires 2 relays (4 pins) and that's it, no resistors. Here is a very good explanation on how to do this. If you want to skip the details and just see both fans in action at med speed and high speed go to the 9 minutes mark and you'll be amazed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAKnMl1tK8g&t=631s 3) I DON'T want the fans to kick on/off every minute. That's the issue when relays are operated via the thermo switch on the rad. The fans kick on & off too often and that gets annoying. But there is a way to fix this and it's by installing a Hella timer relay SH3-996-152-131 which are 5 pins relay that can be adjusted up to about 10 minutes. SO! These would fix the on/off issue, set the relay to about 2 minutes I've been told and you're done, problem fixed. I'm assuming both relays would need to be replaced by thess timer ones. This is a part I'm still working on understand and I'm having a discussion at the moment with someone who did this. I also messaged the original wiring diagram author on page one DASBEAST3.0 on Vortex but last time he visited the forum it was 4 months ago so I don't know when he'll get back to me. 4) I want the after-run pump to be working either on speed 2 and after shut off or only at shut off. I think OEM setting is only at shut off? I think this can only work with the addition of a third relay ( 5 pins) and the diagram from DASBEAST is probably the right thing to follow. I'm just not good enough yet to understand WHEN the after-run pump is designed to kick in his diagram. Here it is, all puzzle pieces are on the table. Just a matter of putting together the puzzle. I think the guy from youtube and his 2 speeds wiring combined with relay timers and the after-run pump hooked up would give the ultimate wiring loom for the rad. Just like OEM but without the clutter and the fire hazard. I'll continue my quest until I find how to make it happen even if I have to pay someone to confirm it will work the way I want it to be. Cheers

I think I've read it needs to be looped in the circuit?

I ended up buying the Phenix shroud and loom and sourced 2 Spal curved blade fans locally, it was more affordable for me this way. That was in the summer following conversations and advice. Now it's decision, decision! I don't know what to do so I'm speaking out loud sharing the debate I have with myself in case someone could help me to make a better informed decision. Option one: I scrap the Phenix loom, wire it off the original loom (Humble Mechanic has a really good video on how to do this properly). Advantages are it's straight forward, everything stays functioning the same way including the after run. But the inconveniences are that you get to keep FCM (NLA here in Canada) and I'm not a huge fan of aftermarket ones plus deleting the FCM is definately tempting as I find it personally of an eye sore in the engine bay. Option two: I hook up the system with the Phenix loom which is extremely well made. The advantages are that the system would be stand alone with all new wiring (OEM one was burned kind of scary) and it comes with new relays and the FCM can be deleted and that's huge. Now for the inconveniences though, the after run pump won't work anymore and I don't know how to wire it up. Noah at Phenix told me there's no problem at all running without it (he does without on his Corrado) but I would kind of prefer to have it working plus I have a brand new one... I read those 4 pages again before posting, there's a nice schematic on page one that contain 3 relays (the 3rd one being fed from the second fan to actuate the after run) or what Shaun pointed out in his last comment, something could be rigged from the second relay straight to the after run. All comments would be appreciated! Cheers

I agree mate, that needs to be considered in the design. I'm going to brew on this and share what I come up with when I work on this. Cheers!

That's exactly it, it release the pressure from the crank and instead of releasing it in the atmosphere, it's being vacuum trapped to then burn again by the engine. Catch can is a better solution...

Very interesting Shaun! I don't think the amount of gunk you collect is only the result of forced induction. I installed one back in the days on my 2L 16V GTI 1991 and I was shocked by the amount collected... In your case you have removed the air box so you have space for it. I would like to see if it's possible to accomplish tucked in under and behind the engine? I guess when it will be time to install it, I will investigate this. The more I think about it, the more I'm incline to do this. Cheers!

Hello all! I'm cleaning the rest of my parts while waiting for the engine to be ready and now it's time to deal with the PCV valve. A commonly broken parts that's been NLA for a long time, Ford replacement is NLA as well. Mine was cracked and I managed to find 2 decent used ones. But now that I know more about it I'm starting to think that maybe I don't want it anymore. Removing it won't bring a CEL and will also keep my throttle body and head cleaner. I also like the cleaner look and the fact that vacuum leaks are definitely going to be less of an issue as it seems that it is the number one part creating it in the system. After a lot of reading, my understanding is that catch can where invented first and those PCV valve were brought in as a no maintenance parts (oil catch can needs purging here and there). Seems great in theory and I would not post this thread if the valve was readily accessible and at low cost, obviously not the case! If it was, I would replace it every couple of years to keep things clean just like I do with other filters. So that's my reasoning at the moment! I'm thinking of installing a catch can to replace it. What do you mates think of this? Any of you run a catch can on their setup? Cheers!

Hey that's good to know! Thanks for sharing, cheers!

Holy cow mate! At first I wondered what happened, though something fell off on it and you had to get it redone 🤔😆😁. The result is absolutely stunning! You do have steel balls 🤣. I know a guy here who did that to his entire Corrado, glossies gloss ever just like yours! Good work!

I don't know either where that last year went... Days feel long, weeks pass fast and next thing you know, it's time to turn the page off the calendar... Anyways, five years! That's crazy but since you have two and it was garage safe well where's the rush!? Cheers

Those reflectors do look good. I'm looking at getting this done as well, makes a big difference with both functional and look. Cheers!

Can't ask for a better review mate, thanks! I'm very happy for you, it's nice to do an upgrade that is worth it. I guess the combination of thus and VSR is the perfect match. Too bad it's that expensive with that weak Canadian money... Thank you!

Lovely upgrade, I did source one as well. It's the little things in life! Cheers