Joe M

It will be the donut shaped bearing, I done the exact same thing, lol.

Nice car, ridiculous price.

Hmm, price on there website is £1395. Think theve just bumped it up now there probably getting a lot of interest?

I reckon we will all be running around in cars powered by steam engines, water will be heated to steam using a mini fusion reactor. Top up the water every few days, then about every 6 months remove a copper bar and replace with nickel, as well as pressurising a small hydrogen tank. (The nickel and hydrogen fuse to create copper.)

If your only worry is the timing then I would say just go for it. If your using the same cam gears, then before you take them off just mark the gears and chain with some tip ex dots, then when it goes back together line the dots back up. Schrick makes it "slightly" harder as the access to the bolts holding it to the bottom manifold is tighter, I undone the front engine mount and jacked it up a bit to get to them.

Hold up, thats a golf engine so will be 2.8, and bidding has stopped. Pistons I have are from a 2.9

Ive got a few spare pistons if you wanted one and not too far away from you. One of the big ends went in my first engine knackering one or 2 of the bores, at least 4 of the pistons should be good though.

Pretty high as well, £1000 minimum for an 8v GTi I reckon ill stop looking at Corrados just now, wait till the end of the year then try and get one thats already been 24v'd or FI'd.

Ive seen a lot of people compaining saying the prices are rock bottom, they are far from it!! When I got my VR6 about 7 or 8 years ago it was £4500, and I sold a 2.0 16v for £3000 to get it. Prices of some mint cars dont seem far off that just now. Cheapest I can see atm are 1.8's for a grand upwards, and the cheapest VR's are about £1600 upwards. I sold my VR just under 2 years ago for £1200 and that was a '95 with Konis, eibach arb's, full leather and full history. Only thing it needed was a touch of bodywork. Admittedly I let it go cheap as I had a new car coming. Basically, what im getting at is stop whinging about the prices and start selling cheaper so I can get another. lol

There is always a compromise, but it all depends on yourself what level that compromise is. Its not all down to centre of gravity, theres also a roll centre to consider. Imagine looking at the front of the car and drawing straight lines through the wishbones, that will give you a rough idea of where the roll centre is (this is a rough guide, not exact). Now the closer that point is to the cog the less roll there will be, so you can see that a standard car will have the roll centre above the cog, as you lower the car they move together, then as you keep lowering the roll centre will disapeer into the ground. I would say its best to have the roll centre slightly above the cog, then as you go round a corner and the suspension compresses it moves towards the cog giving best anti roll charecteristics. If the roll centre is below the cog, as you turn and the suspension compresses the roll centre moves away from the cog, meaning the harder you turn the worse the anti-roll gets. This is a very simplified way of saying it, as there are many other variables which also affect things, you just need to have a play about and see what your happy with.

I have seen ball joint extensions available for Golfs that move the wishbone down, it opens a whole can of worms with bumpsteer though and having to move the tie rods as Kev says.

Yep, its unfortunate but thats the way they are. I used to jack mine up for trackdays and probably about the same height as yours for road use. The regular changing of heights stopped the coilovers siezing up at least. :grin:

Where as I feel it's too low :D Visually it looks fantastic but if it were my car I would be hoiking it up an inch :D You could always just try some stiffer springs Mic, but it depends what kind of cornering speeds you want to achieve! Agree with Kev, have a look under the front of your car, if the wishbones are pointing down towards the engine your losing a lot of the effects of the ARB's. For best handling you want the wishbones facing slightly up towards the engine. You can then set the rear to match, or even play about with it making it slightly higher or lower than the front to see how it affects the handling.

E30 would be good, but just looking at whats available locally just now. Not looking for something to mod, requirements are 4 good tyres, long mot and not a slug. The Celica and E36 im looking at are both around £500, seems the going rate for the Celica, cheap for the BMW, the guys emigrating so needs rid of it quick. Had a look at the Preludes, like them as well.

It is, thats why im not so sure about if it will be any good or not, there not the lightest of cars.

Looking for a cheap car under a grand, unfortunately cant get a decent corrado for that nowadays, wish id never sold mine last year, seems like I sold it at the worst time possible now the prices have shot up again. Anyways, got 2 local cars to go see this week, anyone got any experience of them? First one is a Toyota Celica 2.0GT, '93 model with the pop up headlights, 170bhp but probably got the same overly long gear ratios as the MR2? The other one is an E36 BMW 318iS, ive always wanted to have a 6 cylinder model for a while to try out, is the 318iS going to be woefully underpowered at 140bhp?

Looking good :) I got the sump out btw, its pretty bad. I remember now that it was on the bottom of the old engine and it has been dragged about the ground quite a bit and bounced up the stairs in my parents garden when it was still on the engine.

Kk, ill look it out later and see what condition its in.

Busy busy, as long as the sump gaskets the same shape which it looks to be, it should be fine. Just make sure the surface is properly clean before fitting. Also check if the sump is warped or anything before fitting, I know it had scraped the deck a few times... I might have a spare in my shed you can have if it is damaged.

The pads wont just come out, they are locked between the caliper and the carrier. The two bolts you can see at the top corners of the picture will need to be removed then it should pull apart easy. :)

Btw, I noticed when you had the clutch done they changed the rear engine mount. Are you sure it was necessary? It was a Vibratech one that had been fitted maybe 3 years ago, and you know the low mileage I was doing...

I feel bad :( Seems like youve not had much luck with the vr since you bought it. Are you sure its not as simple as a front wheel bearing? Wasnt the gearbox off recently for the clutch to be done, could it be something to do with that, something not put back together right etc.

Thanks, tried to find that out for ages. Very emotive. Pretty sure he was up in Scotland there, over on the west coast near the Rest and be Thankful road. If only the roads were that quite. Yeah, bits of it looked like the Glen Fruin supply road between loch Lomond and Faslane navy base. It probably was, theve used the road numerous times before.

I miss that noise, the Dyson doesnt have quite the same roar to it :( Glad your enjoying it though.

Mixing a bit of 2-stroke in with each tank of fuel to keep the rotor tips lubricated.