Joe M

Replacement parts you need are: Calipers Carriers Pads Disks Hoses If youve got all that the only thing you need to worry about is the copper brake pipes being seized to the existing hoses. Good luck.

Sorry to hear that, if its wrote off though with that spec id definately be trying to buy it back if you can, youd probably get your money back on the gearbox alone.

I got the 720's recently after seeing them praised on here and there definately worth it if you can get a hold of them. Try http://www.mytyres.co.uk/

Heres an in car vid I thought was pretty good: http://www.tamiyaclubdata.com/movies/81 ... X16N28.MPG

Any chance you could post this graph? I did have it before but now cant find it and wouldnt mind seeing it again as I may be going down a similar route to this car.

Just found out Stealth do an alloy baffeled sump for the VR6, it is £127.99+vat.

Yes, but its about £1800

Heres a post I copied from another forum about the same subject apparently wrote by Vince from Stealth.

Probably what I will do, think im gonnae put the car into storage for a few months till I save a bit and decide what im doing with it.

Time for a stupid question I feel. the sump is currently off my car, if a new shell got put on the number 6 conrod, remove the number 4 rod and piston and unplug the number 4 injector and plug, would the car run well enough to go 250 miles? :lol: 1.8t or 24v conversion thread is here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21237

Go for it Kev, then I can buy your engine. :lol:

Now this sounds interesting : Not at that price though. :roll:

Will the 24v fit in with the standard radiator and cooling fans, bits like that? What about the exaust manifold, will it mate up to a vr exaust? Would be good to get one of them as I could keep my current gearbox and engine mounts. Thinking about it now I dont see any reason why it wouldnt be easier than a 1.8t, probably just as much work involved in the wiring and management, but the rest being easier.

CoxyLaad, 24v would likely be the preffered option, but strangely, from what ive seen about the web, its actually easier to fit the 1.8t and as its not something ill be doing myself then it seems more sensible to go for that. Like I said though, just looking at options. Hopefully a decent 2.9 engine will appear in the classifieds or ebay or something.

Now theres an option I hadnt considered for mine... My original plans for this year were, get cams fitted and remap, cars practically finished, spend money on track days. What ive ended up with is, cams and remap done, 1 trackday leaving dead engine, plans for rest of year. Get car running again in one form or another. :roll:

I dont think the vr gearbox fits on to a 1.8t, not without a bit of work anyway. Probably minimum of changing the bellhousing. I would be looking at getting either the 210 or 225 engine, decent intercooler to start with and preferably on factory management and with a 6 speed box? Would likely cost more initially than fixing the vr but then I would have bits to sell on, quaifed box, vgi+268's, and all the other vr bits id be left with. Once its done I would have more scope for upgrading instead of having a vr that the only upgrade left would be a bvh, or charger.

Im a big fan of the vr6 so we dont need to go into how much more character it has, but im looking for info on putting a 1.8t into my corrado. 2 reasons for this, vr6 needs a rebuild which will cost a fortune, and be basically the same spec it is just now, I feel I can probably get a lot more out of a 1.8t for the money. There was a black 1.8t for sale on the forum a while back that used to be a heavily modded vr, bvh, schrick bits and the rest, and the graphs showed the 1.8ts torque curve to be very similar, just a lot further up the range. This is the sort of thing im looking for. So, whats involved in doing this in a vr thats different from the usual fitting it to a 4 cylinder C. Is it easier or more difficult? Would I still be able to use my vr gearbox as I want to keep the quaife? All info and comments welcome.

Got an email back from Vince, he recommends only using the JE pistons on forced induction cars and said to use the 82.5mm pistons Rpmayne mentioned. Its going to cost a lot, so im going to consider a 1.8t conversion as an alternative before commiting, will start another thread regarding this. edit: Vinces name in red, the main man, first time ive seen that feature. :lol:

All engine mounts All suspension bushes Suspension changed to coilovers All top mounts Anti roll bars Inlet manifold Cams Throttle body Fuel pump twice, once an old spare then fitted a brand new one. Exaust 4 new speedlines after hitting a kerb Ignition leads twice Spark plugs twice Oil and filter 3 times Clutch New diff and gearbox rebuilt Throttle cable Radiator Coolant twice Brake fluid twice All calipers, disks, pads, hoses and copper pipes replaced, then front pads again. Battery Wipers Grill Parcel shelf Rear lights On my 4th set of tyres 3 Wheel alignments All in 19 months and 12 thousand miles and the car is currently in need of a new bottom end. :roll:

I think thats just the nature of forged pistons, they expand as they heat up so are slightly loose when cold causing the piston slap.

Cool, im still in need of a crankshaft at the moment and could probably use the conrods as well, pick the 6 closest matched from the 12.

Just sent stealth an email actually. Am I right in thinking 82mm is the standard vr piston size? Would probably go for the same as yourself with the 82.5mm for the same reason, hopefully ill get away with not going for a remap. I doubt theres much increase in the power tbh unless the engines had a lot of other work at the same time, maybe up to 10bhp if that at the top end, probably more of a difference mid range. How do you find yours since its been doneRpmayne? Kev, I would have liked to take the time over the summer to fit a 24v but I have no garage or driveway and its not the kind of thing to do in the street. :(

Option 2 is getting more and more tempting, JE Pistons with rings and pins for $740...

Providing I get the crank and pistons from the other thread I cant decide between options 2 and 3 at the moment. Option 2 I can get EIP Pistons for $800 (best price so far) and would have to pay for a rebore and other associated parts, but would save in not having to buy a block, and would have a good engine at the end up. Option 3 I would also have to pay out for a rebore, but would also have to buy a block or probably full knackered 2.8 engine such as g60renshaw's, though would save money not buying pistons and would likely have parts to sell on. Decisions, desicions... :?

Long bolt with a 17mm head and a nut same size with some big washers has done the job for me on numerous occasions. Screw the nut pretty far down the bolt then put the washers on, put the bolt head on the piston, wind back the nut till the washers are pressing on the caliper then hold the nut with one spanner and turn the bolt head clockwise with the other. This piston will turn with the bolt once its under a bit of load.