Joe M

Heres a thought, would your spare g60 5th gear and the 4.24 final drive fit into a vr box, and if so how much would you want for them? (Providing the g60 5th isnt damaged, I havent read all this thread.)

Heres the autocar times:

This cop driving at 160 is probably safer than 90% of the drivers on the roads today travelling at 60, I dont have a problem with it. A vr6 hitting a 7000rpm limit in 5th with the chip that comes with the vf-engineering kit on chrisvr6nos's car will mean its going at 169mph. 8) If it hits the limiter that is.

The front camber should be even both sides. For a vr6 I think the standard setting is 1degree 12 minutes though it works well if you go for slightly more than that, up to about 1degree 42 minutes. The rest of it looks reasonable.

Dont know if the final drives can be swapped but if they can then yes the ratios would be same as above. VR's dont have the same ratios as that though, the final drive is different at 3.3 something unless its a US spec vr, then its the same as above.

Not completely sure on this as its been a while since I fitted my konis, but I think the bit the brake flexi clips to unbolts from the old shocks and goes on to the new ones. The bent metal piece is to help locate it.

I hate having to pay for things like that. Two schools of thought on it though - 1. - YOU sheared it, YOU fix it buddy. 2. - "Well, it would've sheared if you did it too... " Very difficult to call as you'd never see the state of the bolt before they started attacking it, by the same token you'd never see the steps they'd take to get it out. Grinder/torch/voodoo etc.. Its fairly common for the bolt that holds the passenger side wishbone on to the subframe to shear on the vr/mk3 golf setup. I was warned about it before I got the front bushes done so that I would be prepared for the bill if it did shear. I spent the 2 days before it was booked in going over the bolts with wd40 every so often and it came undone easily.

Looks familiar, is that the one previously owned by some guy that works at a big bodyshop or something?

Heres one I had filmed today, cameras a bit shaky and I hit the rev limiter in 2nd. Also messed up the start, not used to going for full bore launches.

Angle grinder, cut it off. If it was loose before you started messing about with the cv joint then theres a good chance it was the reason for the knocking.

Sounds ok to me, I really wouldnt worry unless it starts getting a lot higher than what it normally sits at. Also consider the mfa isnt that accurate for oil temp. When I had mine in for an mot the mfa said 98 but the mot centres probe said 82.

Ceramic coating was something I read about on the vortex website. In theory it should stop the schrick heating up as much meaning cooler inlet air temperature. I dont really think it will make any difference though, ive done a few trackdays now and the temperatures have been as high as they can get to destroy an engine, yet, coming back to the pitlane the schrick would still be cool. Would likely be mega expensive to get done as well.

Interested to hear what one you got as well, been thinking of getting one for a while. Did youi get a rear one as well?

It hasnt been mentioned that its a Unichip though, could be anything.

If the crankshaft sensor is knackered the car wont start. It reads as a fault usually because the engine isnt runing when the ecu is read.

You need the original chip to go back in.

Check your wheel bearings are ok and the rears are properly adjusted. Sounds like the disks may be moving about a bit causing the pads to get pushed apart, press it once the pads move back to disk, press again immediately and the pedal is firm. Drive about a bit and the disks push the pads apart again causing the soft pedal again...

Its a good noise though, especially on a 16v. :-P

Anyone know anywhere cheap for ford parts? The diesel pump on my dads mondeo has died and the ford dealer said £900... The cars a 2001 2.0 Duratorq 115ps model.

Did anyone ever get one of these?

Mine was the exact same, though each time I did try bleeding the master cylinder a few times and kept getting a bit more air out each time.

Cool, I was just wondering as the torque figure is pretty high and thats something ive only seen before for a vr with this spec from amd's rollers. Mine made something like 205lb/ft. Old engine made 223.5bhp, but I destroyed it and had to get it replaced, cams and maifold etc were swapped over and the new engine feels smoother and more powerful than the old one, hence 223.5+ suspected.

adambob, was that on amd's rollers?

I dont know if they all have them, mine did, '95 vr6. Im sure phatvr6 mentioned his doesnt have them though, originally a 2.0 8v. If it does bleed it last.

Did you have the back of the car jacked up when you bled the rears? If so the proportioning valve could have caused them to not bleed right. Did you bleed the master cylinder as well?