Joe M

Nice one :thumbleft: , ive always liked that C, does it still have the 16" Speedlines on it?

Kevs not wrong, hes talking about the vr6 pump which is a different setup and is all in the tank. Im no expert on this but it still sounds to me like the main pump under the car is gubbed, when u turn the ignition on it may be working weakly so it does buzz and pressurize the system, but as soon as you start the car its too weak to supply enough fuel to keep it running. Dont know how you would test it for sure yourself though id imagine a garage could put a gauge on the fuel line to measure the flow or pressure. :?

Cool, thats the setup im hoping to go for very soon as my disks are pretty worn. Am I right in thinking its just the calipers and carriers that I need from the late golf? (and obviously new pads and disks.)

dubbprince, the 1.8 16v has 2 fuel pumps, a lift pump in the tank thats about £20-£30 from vw, if these go the car will usually start and idle badly so its probably not that. The other pump is under the car near the back drivers side wheel, u should hear this prime when you turn the ignition on, if its dead ECP sell the genuine Bosch replacement for about £95.

After having my diff fitted for a month now I dont think id buy another fwd car without making sure I could get one for it first. :D Best mod that can be done after suspension imo. :twisted: I considered changing the final drive but didnt want the higher reving on motorways or the increased fuel consumption.

I remember the ignition amplifier on my old 2.0 16v needed replacing and I had to get a whole new coil as it was all one unit. Think VW were asking about £140, cant remember how much i eventually got it for.

Its easy Roddy, leave it in 1st till 30mph. :twisted:

Good thinking, ill try my spare key and see if it turns easier, if it does time to go to vw as the transponder in that key is knackered.

Switch seems fine, ive had that go on my previous car and it was different, this time the key wont turn at all when it jams, so I would say something is definately seizing. :(

The other night I tried to start the vr and the key wouldnt turn, was like it was the wrong key. :mad: I took the key out and tried again and it was fine so thought nothing of it. Next day, out to the car, same again only it took a couple of goes to get the key to turn, drove to my work, came back out to the car and it wouldnt turn at all. :mad: Anyway, I sprayed some wd40 in the barrel and on the key then it started no problem, but im worried this problem might come back. Anyone had this before? Is there an easy fix or am I going to be looking at a new barrel? I was going to make a bypass switch just in case but then remembered the steering lock. :oops:

Newer version of dynamat, thinner and lighter with an alluminium backing. Supposedly is more effective as well.

My vr uses less petrol than my 16v ever did, driven sensibly, especially on longer drives. It will use more though if you drive with your foot to the floor everywhere though.

I ended up bursingt the fuel line going to the engine bay trying to changethe filter on my old 16v, was about £30 for a new one so new fuel line on and I gave up trying to change the filter as the other end looked like it would probably go as well. :mad:

Other side of the town from you in Clydebank.

First thing would be to try changing the fuel filter, if its partially blocked it can make the pump loud.

Sorry, its promised to kwloon.

Leaking master or slave cylinger, look for fluid on top of the gearbox.

You could try cleaning up the contacts on the plugs at the front and right of the abs pump with some wd40. :?

Ive got a brand new, boxed, still in the wrapper 16v main fuel pump I bought in error, £50 plus p&p if ure interested, there about £90 new.

I got a roll of Brown Bread for my doors at £14.99 from http://caraudiosecurity.com/ Its 600mmx800mm sheet and is more like dynamat extreme than dynamat. (Thinner and lighter with an alluminium backing.) Havent got round to fitting it yet but in all the reviews ive seen its rated above dynamat. 8)

A lot of the american companies like GIAC and Nuespeed do chips for the 9A engine as it was used in a lot of cars over there including late mk2 golfs. I think they are about $100 plus whatever it costs to get them over here, not sure if they would respond differently to uk fuel though so you would need to check with them first.

The diff makes a huge difference but doesnt offer any of the dangerous tramlining that the focus has. Thats probably more to do with the large wheels and very stiff suspension than the diff. I havent had a great chance to test out my diff yet as the weathers been crap since I got my car back but driving about normally you wouldnt even know it was there. Pulling out of junctions though with a bit too much throttle that would normally cause the inside wheel to spin, you feel it just start to go then you can feel the power transferring to the other wheel and the car just pulls out the junction, the steering does fight you a bit at this time but its nowhere near dangerous. 8) On medium and high speed corners there is none of the fighting of the steering, you keep on the power and the car just holds its line very well, it will eventually slide but you will be going a lot faster than normal when it does, its still very predictable on the limit though, all of this is in the wet remember. :twisted: I would say the diff is the best mod ive done to a car and it will be one of the first things i will do to any fwd car I may own in the future. :D

After reading up on vr tuning im eventually going to go for a vsr with schrick 268's and enlarged throttle body. While the supercharger makes more power it only makes it right at the top of the rev range, the charger doesnt boost the engine down low like the charger in a g60 does wheras with the above mods there is a good boost low down the revs while still getting 220ish bhp. The above will probably cost about the same fitted as a VF stage 1 charger would cost without fitting, but should be a much better drive. 8)

I also read that it can be fitted in place of the membrane to seal the door turning it into an enclosure for the speaker, still not sure where to put it though I think ill do what Kev has done and get the foam stuff from vw.

The instructions I seen say to apply it to large flat panels to make them reflect the sound back, instead of making the panels vibrate, although in a lot of big installs they just cover all metal parts with it.