Joe M

http://www.thisisnottingham.co.uk/displ ... PK=7832600 :(

tbh, if I dont go for a standard replacement I wouldnt be surprised if its not ready for the day. :cry:

If only, a lot of it is probably wishful thinking but im still open to all suggestions and like you said, its an excuse to change bits. :twisted:

They dont fit because of the wider engine. probably could have been redesigned though. Theres a bit on the american club site about how to mod the ducts to fit the vr.

I need a new clutch, I suspected it of slipping last night and tonight confirmed it, foot to the floor in third, and once it hits about 35mph the revs jump up and the speed doesnt. :x Couldnt have come at a worse time either with the rr day a week on Sunday. So, I know the clutch will need replaced for a start, possibly worth doing the timing chains and tensioners, depending on wear since its that side of the engine. Anything else? Also, what clutch? Go for the standard (was good for 105k) or uprated? Im considering a supercharger for next year so edging towards uprated, but which one? What about the flywheel? Just get this one cleaned up or get a lightened one? I was going to order a turn2 crank pulley but im thinking id be as well getting the flywheel instead as its going to be in bits anyway. All thoughts appreciated and considered, even crazy ones suggesting Quafe diffs and 6 speed boxes. :twisted:

The green cotton filters are almost exactly the same as k&n, the only real difference being the colour.

That'll be the idle stabilisation valve, shouldnt affect starting and is supposed to buzz.

Sure did, there pretty local to me and ive always had pretty good service. Keep forgetting to ask about ccgb discount though. :oops:

I think they can be replaced on the 1.8 16v but I had the 2.0 16v model and I had to replace the whole distributor. :mad:

That from Bedrock? Does sound a bit much. Probably a Vibratech front mount if it is, £120 on the vr's, not sure about g60's.

Hall sender in the distributor is a pretty common fault that causes no spark.

Same grill on mine, colour coded, with a Kamei eyebrow spoiler.

Mine had the cylinder head rebuilt last year. It was before I got the car so I cant coment on the difference it made but it drives well now with no problems. The bill was about £800 or £900 but I think that included a new coil pack as well.

Possibly the ignition switch, although this usually causes some starting problems as well.

Its normal.

Some more pics, check out the Stack dash. 8)

paul, good choice. :D

Could also try http://www.findit.co.uk/

Fair enough, I suppose its a lot safer on the vr as the belt the pulley runs only runs the water pump and alternator, dunno what else but nothing that would cause that damage.

I did see a trick for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt on the vwvortex (they were talking about vr's though.) Get the bar in place, in the right position so that you can lower the car down so the bar is touching the ground, remove the fuel pump relay then turn the engine over for a split second and the starter motor will loosen the bolt for you.

I dont think its anything to do with spring rates or damping, its adjusting the ride heights. Making the front a bit higher should move the weight back slightly and vice versa.

The reliability. :lol: Seriously, I never knew much about cars a few years back so when I bought my 16v my thoughts were "that looks good, and its a vw so wont go wrong."

Demon Tweeks sell it, its not cheap though. (In the motorsport catalogue, not the tuning one)

TexasCorradoVR6, why not put vr6-dohc on the engine cover, then you dont need to worry about engine size. chris CORRADO, thought your car was red?

I think I seen it mentioned they are about £50 from gs&f and can be fitted without removing the dash, but is a bit awkward.