Joe M

Ive seen 3 different switches on C's. My '93 16v had a sort of rocker switch that would slide forward and back for the tilt and slide but could also be "rocked" up and down for the tilt. My '95 vr6 has a 2 buttons with a 3rd round button in the middle, one slides the roof back, the circular one tilts the roof and the front switch closes from either position. The earlier C's have a different switch again but I cant remember exactly what its like. More like the window switches IIRC.

I dont think that would bleed it unless the hoses were at the top, it would let you know if oil is passing through the cooler though. Is there anything at the top of the cooler that would unscrew? If it is an airlock then you could either pour oil in from the top or loosen it with the engine running and the oil pressure would force the air out. I guess this would only happen when hot though. You could maybe loosen the cooler and try filling it with it tilted on its side or something though if theres nothing to loosen at the top? Im not sure on any of this as its a mod ive yet to perform, its worth a go though.

corradovr6sc, Is it possible the cooler is just full of air and needs bled in a similar fashion to a house radiator?

I think Zarman is signed up on this forum, dont think hes ever posted though.

The £968 at 21 sounds resonable to me, if it cheers you up ive never paid under a grand for insurance. :mad: Every time its about to drop under the grand I seem to upgrade the car. :twisted:

Fine with me, whats the bbq arrangements? :lol:

Front mount ic.

# Agreed

Im very impressed with my toyos in this bad weather, havent really noticed much wheelspin at all and still feel confident taking corners pretty quick.

I dont know the exact details of what it does but its something along the lines of letting the ecu know when the engine is at tdc so it then knows when to spark. On mine I found when it wasnt running that if I removed an ht lead and put a screwdriver in it holding it near the engine then got someone to turn the engine over that it would spark once then nothing. If it keeps sparking then its probably ok. On the 2.0 16v it cant be replaced on its own, you will need a new distributor, cant remember the price but im sure I paid a good bit over £100 for a new one. :x

Sounds like a similar problem to what I had on my 16v, turned out to be the hall sender in the distributor that was knackered and the problem got worse as the car heated up. Stop for 10 minutes and it would run fine again for another few miles. Im sure the garage would have checked for this though. If it turns out to be the main fuel pump then ive got a brand new one for sale that I bought in error, pm for details if your interested.

First couple of pages are now up, looks good so far.

Go to http://www.snstuning.com/ click diy then ECU Removal and chip installation.

Go to the last page of the link, the part numbers have changed.

With the charger now sorted and the smaller pulley it will be forcing more air than normal into the engine. Basically what the chip does is put extra petrol through as well so the car will run right.

I got mine done with powerflex bushes for £180 all in at a specialist.

An RB5 or P1 will be my next car in a few years. :twisted:

All 16v's and I think the 8v use 256mm, g60 and vr6 use 280mm.

I havent got any ducting there yet, had tried removing the carbon canister to fit a cold feed in there but there was a bit too much of a fuel vapour smell for my liking. I will try and get another feed in at some point but im doubtful that they do anything anyway except at very low speeds.

Sounds good if youve got the cash to get the charger rebuilt straight away.

Ok, ill repost the pic with a bit of an explanation. Basically, theres no need to drill the airbox if you want an induction roar, you can get a better effect by just cutting away a corner of the box. What I recommend doing is first of all, remove the snorkel from the airbox then take the car a drive to see if you like it. If you do and want it louder then cut away the corner of the box at the front wingside by following the red line in the attached pic, the box in the pic was already drilled but it was the only one I could find, but like I said, no need to drill. I have done this mod to my vr6 and my previous 16v, and yes, the 16v was louder and rawer sounding and it was loud as soon as the foot was put down wheras the vr only starts getting loud above 3500rpm.

Nice one, might check them out next time I need something done as thats only about 15 minute drive for me. :D

:lol: , glad your happy with it. I miss that noise. :cry:

They all fit fine on my car, thats with the newer arms and one of the superceded blades and one of the original part number blades, they just look slightly different where they attach to the arm.

I read that due to the design of the 16v inlet manifold with the cold start valve at one end, sometimes when the car is started with the pistons at a certain position it can cause too much petrol being sucked into the combustion chamber at the piston nearest the valve flooding that cylinder. Sounds like this is what your experiencing alex darcy.