beavis

....Or another car you have to fix.

I agree with the lack of low down torque. You do have to rev them to get the the power out of them. We playing with methods of getting the Torque up on ours at the moment. In saying that, they are deceptivly fast from inside, it feels lathargic, but when you look at the speedo you really making headway. 70 odd mph at reline in 2nd gear.

........... or Corrado's with lack of Headlights .. :)

The Corrado is THE best car in the world... LOL... or perhaps not.. We own a Cooper S as a company slut car. We are gunni piging some of ornew tuning bits for them upon it. The Corrado is a classic car of its time and the Mini is set to have the same status. I love my VW 's though and though, but it is nice to have a bit of varity from time to time. Have driven my fair share of Corrado's from stock G60 to monster G60s and a few VR6's. Would take a pretty sorted Corrado to stick with a Cooper 'S' point to point. Corrado's do have a bit more driver envolvement than the Mini, but ditch the mini's gay 17's for a set of VAG 15' steelies and things liven up a bit. and another good reason.. (ignore the 2 lights, one is the seat belt pretensioners fooked and the other a brake wear sensor that got fried on a trackday) pic thumbnailed-vr6storm 193bhp for a lot less than a Cooper works kits.. plenty more to come.. Speak to you soon Mike when we tune you Mini :wink:.

Nicly made bits of kit. A good time to take advantage of the weak $$$$. We have soild mounts on our track car. The vibrations though the floorpan numb the heal of my foot where it rests on the floor when crusing for any length of time. [/url]

Yep, everything connnected. The CO pot just adjusts the base setting of the sender so the ECU is ignorant to the fact that you are adjusting the value of the sender manually and just sences a change in resistance so adjusts CO accoringly. I've never used a gas anoliser in my life, we just set everything on AFR ratios using our wideband probe, the 14.7:1 AFR ratio at idel/low rpm no load, on a car which alll senders are functional ensures a MOT pass in all cases. Usally MOT emmisons failures on G60's are due to a failed sender or excessive oil being burned when charger seals are on their way out.

LOL.. Lady friend ehh!! Could be be seeing the demise of Henny's moto? All thouse hours spent in the garage will now be spent in favor of entertaining the new lady . Have a good one mate.

Lower resistance values (e.g.200ohms) = richer mixture Clockwise Higher values (1000ohms) = Leaner Anti clockwise Most cars fall between 400-700 ohms as a benchmark to get the AFR to the desired 14:1 at idel. I'd leave your CO pots well alone if you have no montioring gas equipment to hand. It is a good idea though to test across pins 1 and 3 of the CO pot to check that your restance values fall between the above parameters. steveo29, It sounds as if your CO pot could be up the spout, adjust the CO pot and see if it actually changes the resistance across the pins.

Dr Jonnie gives likes the prescription for inreasesed cooling then? LOL :wink: .. You fail to mention the 50 coats of waxoil you applyed to your engine bay while passing the time away while the cooler was being fitted.

Ali G's 'da math' .. see all those maths lessons so many moons ago at school are coming in useful now...

The hearsay of 'alcohol abuse'within the company is true though, those claims will be upheld.. :)

Hmm.. Would like to see how they put tippex in the rear back chambers of the charger where I port them out. Even on a mildly ported charger there would be little chance of any traces of tippex being left, I may sound arrogant, but i'm just confident that any charger that has been ported out of the G-werks/pitstop stable has been ported to our standard. Numerous customer have waited around for several hours while i've been huddled in the corner porting their blower, it is not a 10 minuite affair and I don't spend the majority of the week in the corner porting for nowt.. LOL Perhaps the mechanic has his comapnys confused, there are other companys have 'G' in the title we have had to clear the aftermath in thhe past rebuiling the charger to an acceptable standard. I'm still intriged, a rebuild number would be good.

Thats why you need to see the doctors to prescribe you the propper drugs.. the right steroids do not give side effects.. well apart from boost return noises :D

We feed G-lader steroids down here... a dose of horse tranzilizers and you see 10psi more boost..

Ye, applogies, did'nt pay to much attention in electronics at school..LOL get my scales mixed up..

A external ai/oil cooler is a benefit to any car regardless of its state of tune.

The chip you have in your ECU will run on the richer side of things so you have no worries about having to get a remap. Cams and flowed heads bigger capacity bottom ends etc requre the ecu to be remapped. Exhausts do not really make a huge difference to mixture.

FurkiG60, And accoring to Sussex Police lazer gun LOL stel g60, Liam has been down playing with some final features on gizmo.. Will let you know.

stel g60, Hi mate, good thanks, busy as per usual, don't worry not forgot about you new box of tricks :wink: Rob_B, Have a visual inspection around the engine bay at 1st checking for signs of a slight traces of oil coming out of the joints of the hard/rubber boost hoses and that all hose clamps arre done up tight and are in decent repair. Have a look under the passenger side wing to see if there is any physical damage to the intercooler, a hole in the matrix will not do wonders for boost pressure. Check there are no tears or splits in the rubber hoses. The most common place for boost leaks on corrados is the black plastic baffle box that bolts onto the charger outlet. Its is constructed of 2 pieces that sandwich together and use a rubber 'o' ring in the middle to form a seal. The 'O' rings split and boost is lost from here. The CO pot is cube shaped sender situated in the boost hose that leads up to the throttle body that has a white face with 'VDO' written on it. It is held in via a metal circlip in the same manner as the blue temp sender, unplug the harness, extract the clip and there also should be a rubber o ring in the housing to seal the sender in. Extract the 'o' ring and check that it intact, they often split leading to a boost leak. Test the two outer accross the two outer pins(1 and 3) of the sender with a volt meter set to ohms. You should get a resitance reading of 0.5 - 0.7 ohms.. If you get extreme readings 2 or 0.1 ohms then the sender is likely to be shot. Our custom intercooler packages come in at around £500. To give a unbias opion on matters though there are lots of intercooler options out there besides our own.

G60 Corrado's can be a bit inconsistant with their top end speeds. This is manily due to their inadequateOE intercoolers which cannot cope with the demands of the cooling needed under susrstained high boost conditions. They heat sync pretty quickly which in turn leads to higher inlet tempretures. The CO pot/intake air tempreture knocks the ignition timing back above 42'c which further impedes performance. G60 Golfs will pull good top end speeds consistantly as the intercoolers are so efficient. It may well be that your CO pot sender is knackered and the two things you describe (poor mpg and lack of top end) are related. If the sender is shot then the ECU uses an assumed value which will give poor MPG. Also check you have not got any boost leaks, you may just simply be loosing boost and have not got the boost to propel the car above 130 odd. One word of warning about little topend runs, oil seals in chargers do not like extended high RPM. The combination of shaft speed, higher oil tempretures and pressure exerts quite a strain on them.

LOL.. I look vacent most of the time and have difficulty getting a sentance out at shows after the bottle of JD's the night before, but there is some useful information in the depth of mi head.

The main priority is to get a piston that is suited to the application i.e. a piston that is designed for use in a forced induction engine regardless of the process from which it has been manufatured. A forced induction piston has a lot thicker crown to absorb head in a more uniform fashion and beefier suiterbly spaced piston rings to cope with the extra stress running boost though a motor exerts. There are good /bad forged and cast pistons. Generally forged pistons are tougher than cast, but a poorly made forged piston will be weaker than a well made cast piston with no blow holes in the casting. We use forged pistons in our rebuilds, i'm not saying they are better than a well made forged piston, but in our opinion we like to use the best avalible to us. Also the british comapny we use, Accralite, make up small batch runs of a specific piston to our design requrements which is not as easy to comission with generally 'mass production ' cast items. It is possible to buy off the shelf cast items and get them modifyed, but there is a lot of design that goes into a piston with regards uniform expantion, by removing material to alter compression ratio or add valve clearence can potentially drastically alter the way the piston was originaly designed to expand. Therefore we start with a fresh unit and get it designed from scratch to avoid any problems. Forged pistons do have a greater bore/piston clerance when cold as forged units do expand more than cast items, but within the time it take the oil to come up to tempreture the units have expanded to the same tollerences that a traditional cast item will have when warm. The reason why forged items can get a bad name is basically from a poorly built engine when engine builders add far to much tollerance for expantion into the block as they incorrectly measure the cold forged piston and add tollerance onto tollerance which equtes to far far to much clerence between bore/piston. You then get excessive 'blow by' past the rings that leads to excessive crank case pressure and yes more consumption of oil as the oil scraper rings cannot do their job efficently. We have set tollerences and all the expantion is allowed for in the tollerance of the pistons during manufature so this error is never a worry. Regardless of cast or forged, no piston is indestructable. If a engine is poorly set up or the right components are not used in relation to each other then both a forged or cast piston will fail, a forged piston will just fail at a later point. It is essential that fueling and cam profiles are adjusted to whatever spec you end up building your bottom end to. On the same note, make sure when playing with cranks/rods if you do go down the restroking route is that you use a rod that is up to the job. Normally aspirated rods are generally a skinnier construction than a comarative forced induction item and will not withstand the torque of a blown engine. The same goes for gudgen pin diameter, normally aspirated items use a thinner pin generaly which will fail in a forced induction motor. It is possible to build a daily driver, that sounds the nuts, gives the goods, is 100% reliable within your budget, just do your sums and investigate hard. :lol:

The main factors are what type of charicteristic do you want the engine to have and what are you mainly going to be using the car for. A daily driver you are going to want to keep maximum drivabiity in all conditions keeping 100% reiabiity. If your building a all out thrash wagon you can go balls out.

Fake rebuilds!!!! We have seen a number of chargers that have numbers stamped into them that have no rellivence at all. Only today mysellf and Darren were looking at a charger that somone had alltered a number on to be passed off a rebuilt unit. If the seller claims the unit has recently been rebuilt then contact the reevent company to x reference the history on the unit.

LOL.....If only they could see it now!!! A stripped relic in the corner of our workshop... Will be going to be crushed this week.. but Darren being saying that for the last 6mths