Rpmayne

IHIG60, think i found a page on changing the resistor value for different activation speeds on the Vortex forum. Quick question, how do you remove the circuit board from the clocks case? Tried pushing the clips back but it feels like something is holding it. Do you need to remove the needles and surrounds to get at some more screws? If so, how do you do that? Don't want the clocks to look like it's been tampered with by damaging something. Thanks.

I received the cable a long time ago and have only just given it a go. I've got a USB to RS-232 converter which the OBD2 cable connects to. Thing is the VAG-COM software I downloaded just says it can't find the RossTech interface when trying to connect to the car. Is this copyright protection because its trying to find the dongle? Thought there was a free cut down version anyone can use?

Well done mrbeige, ! Any idea what transistor you needed to replace it? Sounding likely I have the same problem so want the spare ready to change when I take the instruments out rather than wait to order it. Was there an identity number for the transistor on the board so I can find it easily? Thanks.

Craigs8vgti, if you take the fuse board cover off, the relay is sitting on the inside of the dash just above the opening. Think that you just push it up to slide it off the fixings.

My rear spoiler hasn't worked automatically for some time, only goes up and down via the manual switch. I've checked the blue wire isn't connected and have swapped the control relay. Where does the signal actually come from? Just thinking that I changed the ECU for a cheap golf VR6 one. If the signal comes from there then maybe the signal isn't being produced at all. Thought these ECU's would be the same apart from the map. I've changed that for a BBR chip and its running fine otherwise.

Some garages have a bung type thing (sorry about description) which has some fluid in it that reacts to combustion gases present in the coolant. It fits in the header tank with the cap removed. This should tell you whether its the head gasket which is then pressurising the coolant system. Also they can have another bung which can be used to pressurise the system to see the leaks when it's cold and not running. Maybe worth asking before buying anything.

Any ideas where the cheapest place is to order a Supersprint system? The stereo's broken at the moment and now starting to realise how much the current one is knocking around even with nobody in the back.

There is marks on everything to check they line up.. Plastic bung on top of the gearbox allows a view at the flywheel marker to see the crank at TDC for cylinder 1 mark, this should then tie in with the line (8v golf, might be different on yours) on the cam pulley pointing straight up lining up with the arrow on the fixed part of the plastic cam belt cover, and if you take the distributor cap off there is a mark at about 1 o'clock looking from the front which the arm should be pointing to. Think that's right, just checked it on a mk2 golf, the leads were put back in the wrong order.

The bump stops should be cut back, otherwise the car might be sitting on them all the time with the new lower ride height.

Depending on price I could be interested, take it you remove the carbon canister at the same time for the cold air feed?

Aren't the bolts holding the diff together prone to shearing like the mk2 golfs? I had one go and it shot one of the heads through the bell housing and let the gearbox oil soak the clutch. Didn't hear anything, only noticed the clutch slipping and a trail of oil back to my house. Maybe a bolt head is ratling around.

I thought of using the stud extractors, but unless they do some long series ones I don't think it will reach far enough through the clearance hole to pick up the broken bolt and still allow you to put a wrench on the end. Takink the sub frame out isn't that difficult, just need to support the engine then undo all the engine mounts, steering rack brackets, front wishbone rear mount bolts, the bolts which attach it to the chassis near the driveshafts and the rollbar to hub bolts. Think that's it, should come out subframe and rollbar complete then for good access. Seems alot but swear it will save you time and frustration in the end.

This happened to me recently and I tried drilling it out with limited success. Mine's a VR and it was a nightmare to try and jack the engine/box out of the way to get the drill in straight. I eventually gave up trying to do it on the car and took the subframe out. Once the subframe is out, drill the part through the wishbone clear then remove the wishbone. Obviously you can't go right the way through like that because you'll remove the thread. To keep the drilling of the remaining part straight, a toolmaker used a piece of bar with the tap core diameter (think this was 10.75mm if its a M12x1.25 thread, NOT sure of this so hopefully someone will confirm)through it. The drill therefore went through the clearance hole, through the bar then into the remaining part in the thread. Well easy for the drill to wonder otherwise. Then tap to clean the thread up. Right b%$tard for that to happen but it is possible to save it. Just be careful not to drill the clearance hole into an oval shape (i had to get a washer turned up and welded over to repair that), that's why unless you are very good with a drill I'd take the subframe out. Good luck.

After my personal experience with a Milltek system not fitting as I had expected, has anyone had any bad experience with the Supersprint systems? At the time of buying the Milltek the general concensus was good, yet now this seems to have tailed off. I'm quite prepared to pay for a quality system if it fits as well as OE, is stainless so never to be replaced and has an improvement in sound similar to the Milltek. Although the manifold looks wicked I can't go that far unfortunately, just cat back.

Hopefully the Milltek will fit better on a golf than a VR Corrado (see other threads for fitting problems, I'm saving for a Supersprint). Had a Scorpion on a mk2 16v golf and thought it was good, although had to get rubber mounts with the chains in them to stop it knocking. The best fitting exhaust I've had was a SS Jetex system on a 8v mk2, no issues whatsoever and no droan. And was comparatively cheap.

Had some of the Yoko A043 (i think) Advans and i recon the toyo's are better handling wet and dry but the ABS seems to step in alot earlier than it used to. Not so confident on the brakes, could be unrelated to tyres though. Yoko's only lasted about 4000miles (very kind estimate), and at £75.00 per tyre I needed a change.

:shock: After reading this thread I've just checked my calculated MPG. 64litres does 280miles normally. That works out at 19.4mpg (280/(64/4.5)). The VR's MFA normally reads around 25-27mpg. Definitely some inaccuracies somewhere, and on standard wheel/tyre sizes.

The cam position is quite close to the coil pack, maybe damaged that if you removed the coil pack to get access? same goes with the coil pack connector and temp sensors as dr-mat says. My speedo did that on a 8v golf after the gearbox was replaced and the earht wasn't reconnected properly, so earthing through the ECU and frying it. If yours runs at all I doubt it would be that though.

Sorry, missed that link, abit early for me at the time. Sounds like yours is about the same clearance as mine. Had a plate welded on the lump infront of the sump plug because it nearly went through. That plate has now gone, so really need to sort something before it springs a leak.

I would be interested in a new sump as I've nearly worn through the original one. Problem is that this one will sit lower. Are there any which would give more clearance available, or does the oil pump strainer sit right on the bottom so this isn't possible?

How does ABS make a difference to the pedal response if its not locking up? Didn't think it would make any odds. One thing about ABS which scares me is the lock up, brakes let go completely, time delay, brakes applied by the ABS. That delay where it sorts out what to do and no braking is going on has got me abit worried a few times. Is this normal?

Just bookmarked camskill for next time, good prices. Got a local garage who just lets me use the tyre fitting gear for a couple of beers. £6 for both for someone to do it sounds good though.

It there normally a snorkle in the standard VR6 air box? Had a look in mine and its got a k&n panel filter with a empty box. A mate took the snorkle out of his 8v golf box at the weekend and the induction noise sounded pretty good. Wanted to see what mine would be like... but nothing to change.

Thanks for the comments. Looked on ebay and got some proxies t1s's coming for tomorrow morning, £104.00 for 2 all in. Do like the yoko's, got some A043's last time, well grippy in the dry but seem to have worn alot quicker than the A539's. Can't afford to keep changing them so will see how long the proxies last. Alot of that might be down to giving the car more stick the more I get used to it though.

Cheers, looks like a new housing it is, another £40.00. All I did was use an allen key to tighten the bolts up, didn't feel I was overtightening but it just kept spinning. Now I've taken the front of the car off it'll be easier to get a torque wrench in so will do that. Thanks for the help.