RW1

RH & LH refer to Right Hand & Left Hand as I don't know which side you are tapping into, not that it matters as the wires are the same. It doesn't matter on the 3rd Brake Light which is used as earth or 12 volts. My references are to the Corrado's wiring. 31 is earth. BR is your +12 volts for brake light. .

Brake light positive 12 volts wire at the back plate connector is RH & LH - black with red stripe, earth is brown. The reason it works with no lights is because where you have picked up the "earth", is in fact a +ve to another bulb and the brake lights are managing to earth thro' that bulb circuit to its' earth. Which most likely the rear sidelight 12 volt supply. As soon as sidelights are turned on, the earth wire side of your 3rd brake light goes to 12 volts potential, so "neutralising" the 12 volts of the brake light switch supplied 12 volts. Therefore there is no voltage potential across the 3rd brake light and it won't illuminate. .

I'd recommend you use the two pole sender directly into the pressure switch hole. Otherwise you will have a bad time trying to seal up a "T" piece in that position. The sender body only just clears the top of the oil filter housing as it tightens up, so observe closely the gap during final tightening. .

The reason I say what I posted (thermostat) is because your other temp & sensors (oil temps & rad fan switch) are reading/triggering what they should and presumably you are using the dash water temp gauge for the coolant readings of the fan triggering, so the dash sensor is working. The only other quick check I would do is carefully undo the header tank very slowly when warm and check there is a pressure build up. Careful, if you go too far, it will spill over the outside, so only enough to make sure it hisses and retighten. If it doesn't, renew the header tank cap. .

Don't think its a temp sender. As seanl82 has said, he feels its cool as well through the heater for too long. That points to the thermostat. For what it costs, despite it appearing to work OK, I'd change it out again for another new one. .

Put it to halfway initially and try that. .

No adjustment like that Matt. Its a crude cross bolt in two arms with sliding slot arrangement. Where is the bolt in the slot at present? (Top, midway, bottom?). Photo would be useful. .

I think you are thinking of Wolfsburg. Thats 120 miles west of Berlin and needs at least 2 to 3 days on its own with the Autostadt, VW Museum (Last UK Storm) and stock up at VW Heritage. .

http://www.pristinealloywheels.co.uk/ Give them a call. They should be able to give a view on cost. Prices are not too bad. They pick up from local tyre outlets (on their list) so fairly convenient. or http://rhinoalloys.co.uk/ Not used but from what I've seen of their work, you wouldn't dissappointed. .

Old belt needing renewal or a belt is under tensioned. Check belt deflection. All belts (Alternator/Steering Pump) - 5mm deflection using your thumb in the middle of the longest free span between pulleys. .

Unless my geography is wrong.... http://homepage.ntlworld.com/douglas.gilbert/stanford_hall.htm on the River Soar...... is not http://www.stanfordhall.co.uk/index.html on the River Avon C.

Given the old one works, I suspect the one or both of the metal contacts in the new tank are not making contact with the Corrado's connector. The circuit design is too simple for a complex failure. Or, the Corrado's connector has a pushed back pin. Worth checking. .

Info for people, these ECU's are AAA 2.8ltr engine code ECU numbers, not ABV 2.9ltr engine code. So you may have better chance of finding something off a Golf VR6. .

You don't really want to push a 70 amp alternator +ve feed cable to the battery at 120amps. The cable will need to be uprated to keep it cool. 90 amp is borderline but should be OK as long as there are no high wattage accessaories fitted. The battery will still draw what it can just after engine start but this is short term so heat build up is not a major issue unlike running some current draining case. One such case is cabin fan on 4, wipers going, engine rad fan on & headlights on continuously. Now that could cause the 70 amp wire to get warm on a wet night due to current drawn. You will find the cable is uprated on the later VR6 to cope with higher current alternators. 70amp = 357 971 349K 90/120amp = 357 971 349Q .

Well on that basis, there is something odd about those switch you obtained. The basic contections and functions are the same in the F, D & chinese versions. .

Whats the "UK" switch part number?

Later design. Nope, just the left hand drive version and there are only a couple of differences in design.... the extra pin for dim-dip UK lighting is missing. Plus the locating keyway is in a different position. As regards switch cap illumination colour, just a bulb change. Market styling. Mine were both green in the RHDrive version. The switch works the same, so I think your wiring is suspect somewhere. http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56755-What-would-the-interest-be-in-new-late-headlight-switches-Pricing-Update&p=730146#post730146 Runs cool? Uses the same pigmy bulbs... Put a small spot of black touch up car paint on the crown part of the Red LED inside to dull down the direct illumination. Suggest you use a small patch disc of thick sticky tape first to see if you like it. .

Item 9 - Date of Next Meeting The next AGM will be held at 1300 hrs on Sunday 1st April 2012 at the same venue, Gaydon Heritage Motor Centre. (NB –It is not Mothers Day or Easter, so no excuses for not coming) Tut-tut Wendy! .

There are three types. Early, middle & late. In simples... the slope of the headlight glass changes to match the changes in bodywork, particularly at the main change of 1991/92. .

Nice one! When fitting, just look down the rubber pipes to make sure none of the internal material of the old one has choked the pipe, particularly the ISV pipe & shutter valve. .

All you need to do is make a connection of the two rubber pipes that run into the damper unit. Copper pipe or hard plastic pipe that won't collapse. Be a bit noisier. .

Use trim tape from Halfords and secure both together for a week to let the tape adhesive "harden". Or use numbber plate sticky strips, the pack that contains 4 strips, they are tacky enough from day one. .

Oh, it will work. But my concern would be damage to the ABS/EDL valve block seals. If they can be damaged by just pushing back caliper pistons with bleed nipples closed, whats to stop the pressure from the eazibleed doing the same if the spare tyre pressure feed is high enough. .

One distinction with TEVES 04 brakes on the RHD C that is made in the VW workshop manual is the brakes are vacuum bled (as is a C brake system RHD or LHD where no ABS is fitted). Pressure bleeding is for LHD C TEVES 02 ABS brakes, different system. They wouldn't put that in the manual unless there was a reason (not stated). .

Barn find..... Who are those jokers kidding! Had to check it wasn't an old copy from Aprill 2011. I didn't even buy the magazine cos it wasn't worth it. Like above 189,000 miles....... Nothing special about it other than they must be desparately short of editorial material. .