
RW1
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3rd brake light - Vauxhall Vectra (bear with me...!)
RW1 replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Interior
For that price, I'd wire a second one, electrically piggy backed under the cross trim panel just behind it and double up the depth. Double sided trim tape should hold it in place. . -
Just picked that up somewhere on the www last week. You know what reviews can be like. Had the feeling the report was Which but couldn't verify. @coullstar Still buying another :) so they can't be bad, just "different". I just can't draw a parrallel with the Corrado or the Mk1/2 Scirocco. The pedigree is broken. Its not a coupe, its a sportswagen. But in its own right, it takes some beating for its price bracket. The only thing that makes my Corrado sit in the garage is its SORN :( . Roll on May 2012.
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Mk3 S. is a different beast to the Corrado. Prefer the Corrado chassis by a good margin. The Mk3 S. is like driving a slab of steel with wheels at the corners. That said, the S. handles well but on mine the Bridgestone Potenza tyres are poor tyres for road holding unless its absolutely bone dry. Even then, they are below what I expect of a quality tyre. (Thank goodness they are coming off in April next year.) Like for like, the leather of my Storm is much better than the S. S. leather has been skimped on. Only the bit you sit on is leather, door rear side panels are not leather inserts. Like the electric steering of the S. The engine and gearbox are not a fair comparison on mine. 2.9ltr v 1.4ltr. Mine you, there's not much difference in them upto 60mph, pokey little number. Only gives up because 7th gear on the S. is an extreme overdrive with the engine turning at 2,400 rpm at 70mph instead of the usual 3,500 rpm. Still has some punch left though despite the gearbox. But one thing stands out while driving. The Corrado has very, very much more feel & feedback. The S. driver is sooooooooo divorced from the road, wrapped in cotton wool. Hate it when the S. ESP takes over in a corner and starts one wheel braking when you expect to turn in to correct the car. Unnerving the first time as it wasn't expected and if my window hadn't been down and heard the tyre being braked and skidded, I would have wondered what the car was doing. Very odd. .
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Wouldn't buy an A5! ..... Recent press, Although owning a Corrado, one might be at home with that :rofl: New Scirocco's come with three upper colours in the roof liner and side pillars. Black or very light grey or white. All depends on the spec and options ordered. Mine would usually be a while upper. Cos I ordered black leather interior, the roof liner & pillars are black. I initially thought it would be bad but once use to it, it feels no different or oppressive. Still would have prefered white though. .
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Seem to have taken the Union Jack button off the top right screen. So.... http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.etkashop.com/vwcp&ei=XrrxTpD8H4u58gOhxt2fAQ&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFMQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/shop/%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-gb:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7ADFA_en%26prmd%3Dimvns Don't use the order form, follow this method http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?59345-Corrado-Radiator-top-flange&p=756815#post756815 .
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That's what VW Heritage.de sell. For UK market & Europe, they were all clear. Amber is USA & Canada iirc. If you look closely at the amber ones on the Heritage.de site, you'll see there is a small hole in the top corner nearest the fog lamp (handed). That's for adjusting the tilt of the fog lamps. Adjustment is not the same way on later ones. Indicator out instead to do it. .
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http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/shop/ Both exist, Early amber 51.54 Euros's plus 19% VAT + p&p Late clear 45.93 Euro's plus 19% VAT + p&p .
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http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?52860-Keep-it-original&p=713794#post713794 .
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3rd brake light - Vauxhall Vectra (bear with me...!)
RW1 replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Interior
Well, it was a long time since. Did well to remember any of it all :) (That's what I meant by "skin & metal frame" in step 4.) I will probably of used green garden wire to initially feed through. I seem to recall it being hard to get upto the roof through the rear pillar cos the wire prefered to bend rather than feed. Anyway's instructions are there for anyone who wants to do this job with whatever rear brake light unit they choose. :) Glad you got yours done. :cheers: . -
And there's no paint code for it either in a touch up stick! Karmann special colour. .
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In a way yes...... Its the inconsistant temp switching of the rad fans. As the thermostat gets tired, its not moving consistantly. This leads to different quanities of hot coolant getting into the radiator. The rad fan thermoswitch reacts to what it senses. The temperature switching of the rad fan switch went rapidly downhill over about 10 drives until it would switch on between 97'C & 112'C. At running speeds, the oil and coolant temps would be almost the usual levels. But when you stopped in traffic, the temp rise would be as usual. But the fans kicked in on their first switch at a random temp in the above range. And only for say 30 seconds. The dash temp would budge downwards. Put the thermostat in a pan of boiling hot water and you could see its slowness to react plus the opened area compared to the replacement was markedly reduced for a given pan water temperature. New thermostat in and the coolant temps is the usual but the oil is running 6'C cooler now. Plus when the coolant heats up in traffic, it rises, the rad fans come on at a consistant temperature every time as per the rad fan stage 1 fan temp setting range (in my case 107'C indicated), the coolant then drops in temp with fans going off. Oil stays cooler as well with it remaing at a lower temperature despite the coolant rising. ------------------------- Battery: As above, check the charge (still connected) with engine not running (after a descent run of 1 hour). After 6 hours, use this table 100% charged - 12.75 volts 75% charged - 12.50 volts 50% charged - 12.20 volts 25% charged - 12.00 volts 0% charged - 11.70 volts or less If about 12.20 volts or less, then charge the battery up on an independant source (charger) and then leave again. If it settles after 10 hours to 12.20 volts or lower, then battery is definite past its best by far. Charging should leave it off charge settled at 12.4 - 12.50 volts usually. You will never get 100% with an older battery. The final is a battery tester test at a garage to confirm. When running, alternator should go to nominally 13.8 -14.0 volts. Anything less, check connection ALL joints of both 12 volts feed & earth return via the engine/gearbox for corrosion/high resistance. .
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Thermostats, known them to last only a few months. Alternator, more check out the battery first. .
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All those symptoms you describe are exactly what I had in August. It was the 15 year old coolant thermostat being lazy. But also opening late slightly, ie. gap for temperaure was narrower in the thermostat, so forcing up the engine block coolant and oil temps a little. Changed the thermostat and everything went back to normal with the rad fans on at a consistant setting. Running temps consistant and correct rather than slightly raised. C.
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3rd brake light - Vauxhall Vectra (bear with me...!)
RW1 replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Interior
Yes its stored, ..... for future use sometime, unless I decide to fit the OEM rear unit I have under the rear spoiler. There is more to those mounting studs than is visible...... 1) Buy a set of plastic number plate mounting bolts and nuts. 2) Cut "cleanly" at right angles under the plastic bolt head. 3) Drill a small pilot hole into the bolts at the head end (to fit a self tap screw). 4) Make the adhesive metal "foot" out of a large metal disc about 4cm in diameter. (I found the original 2cm diameter ones in the photo failed in the hot summer sun as there was too much downward force - v – stuck area with 2cm diameter.) 5) Drill a hole in each disc for a small brass self tapping screw. Counter sink the hole so the screw will sit flush with the metal disc surface. 6) Fit metal discs, plastic bolt threaded stud & small screws together. (This is where your skill in cutting the bolt head at right angles show up!) 7) Apply to the face of the disc with brass screw facing outwards a body work doublesided adhesive tape and trim off excess around the metal disc edge. Leave the outer sticky face protected. I didn’t use the Rover mountings as they were not a spare part to buy. They came as part of the window build as a spare! Wiring 1) Small twin 2 amp wiring run from the right rear brake light loom at the back of the rear light's connector 2) Route is up the rear body pillar into the rear roof cavity. 3) Wire is fed through the right hand rubber tube grommet into the tailgate frame. 4) A hole needs to be drilled in the tailgate bodywork as shown. This is where the skin & metal frame are double metal walled. So take it easy drilling through. You can work the position out from the photos as thats the right side grommet from the body roof to the rear hatch. Black tape was fitted to the wire to stop fretting at the hole and further along to the rear hatch bodywork to hold in place. [ATTACH=CONFIG]50656[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50657[/ATTACH] 5) Feed the wire along behind the top hatch cover trim plastic until central to where the brake light unit will be. 6) You will notice the light unit has a slot at the midway point in the rear vertical panel. This is the wire slot. 7) The wires are piggy backed at the cars rear right brake light assembly for 12 volts and return earth. Standard size female Lucas connectors are required at the Rover brake light connection. Plastic Cover sheet The unit is a bit bare as there is a window black mask on the Rover. So some sort of cover was required to hide the internal parts of the Rover unit. 1) First make a card template to fit inside the edge panels of the Rover light unit. Take account of the two round mounting housing areas where the mounting studs pass through. 2) When satisfied with the car template is a snug fit. Transfer this to a sheet of black plastic sheet 1mm to 2mm thick. The sheet will cut quite easily with a good pair of sharp scissors. The two round holes where cut by small pilot hole and round drill hole cutter. 3) Spray with car body paint in black paint (I used satin finish) 4) You will need to fit a lip around the inner edge of the Rover unit to support the Cover Sheet. I used black ¼” draught excluder foam tape (hard to find these days so you could paint black on the top edge face the brown equivalent or cover with black tape.) The position of the tape must correspond to the thickness of plastic sheet, so the Sheet site flush with the top edge of the Rover unit. Fitting 1) Put the two studs into the Rover unit. 2) Off up to the window with the top window plastic trims trip fitted. 3) With the Rover unit up against the rear window in central position. Press each mounting stud in turn up against the rear window and mark with a wax marker pen or similar on the outside of the rear window. (NB the studs mounting surface to the window still have the protection sheet fitted so they do not stick. 4) Put the Rover unit aside. Take the sticky protection sheet off each mounting stud and apply to the window using the outer window surface marks made in 3) to get the position correct. Press home with your hand on the outer window surface at the mounting point pressing to prevent breaking the rear window as you press hard. 5) Now leave the studs on the rear window to cure and harden... about 10 to 14 days. This needed because while the adhesive tape is first used, the weight of the Rover unit can peel the stud footings off the window slowly over a couple of days. 6) 14 days on..... Once the window mountings are cured & hardened, hang a length of the brake light feed wire out from behind the rear window plastic trim and re-fit the trim back in place. Connect up through Rover light unit’s rear panel slot. 7) With wire tidy inside the Rover unit, put on the plastic cover made from plastic sheet and offer the unit up onto the studs. Tighten the plastic number plate nuts onto the window mounted studs. I also used plastic washers to broaden the load. Do not over tighten the nuts, just enough to stop the Rover unit from moving, the sponge fitted to the Rover unit lip edge (comes with it fitted) will stop small vibrations. 8 ) Raise the rear hatch. Press the foot brake pedal and the unit should illuminate. Check all bulbs are working, 4, iirc. You can tell I had Blue Peter training in years gone by. :) -
3rd brake light - Vauxhall Vectra (bear with me...!)
RW1 replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Interior
The Rover part number is XFG100240 and was £28.50 + VAT in early 1997. Quite a big item. The first photo is the Rover part. All the rest are homemade components. The plastic cut sheet with two holes was sprayed satin black. This was needed as the glass on the 800's tailgate came with a pre-fitted black mask stuck to the inside glass surface which could not be bought separately. As said, the Rover 800 glass has the same angle of slant on it, so the unit point horizontally back down the road at following drivers (as it should). Rear view intruded by about 1cm in the rear view mirror / rear window. [ATTACH=CONFIG]50622[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50623[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50625[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50624[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50626[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50627[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50628[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50629[/ATTACH] Removed due to concours competitions. -
3rd brake light - Vauxhall Vectra (bear with me...!)
RW1 replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Interior
Went round this a long time ago. Ended up with a Rover 800 Coupe one. Rover is irrelevant here as a unit but.... The lesson I learned along the way was that it may look OK but the angle of the rear hatch glass has to be the same otherwise the lens part of the 3rd brake light points downwards or skywards and the light does not shine rearwards at the following traffic. I eventually made a card template and went measuring other rear screens to see how the level edge on the glass compared to the Corrado's level. Amazing what the eye thinks is correct and the card showed me otherwise. The Corrado is quite flat to the horizontal compared with other rear hatch glass of cars that look similar. So what ever was taken from the other car would point skyward and not be seen easily or throw full illumination onto following traffic. Thats how I ended up with the Rover 800 Coupe unit as the rear glass had the exact same angle of slope as the Corrado. . -
Doesn't really exist on the '94 VR6 or any other. What are you trying to find function wise? .
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Yes, some come with O sealing ring, some don't ..... .
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Not broken. Where the garage can connect up to analyse exhaust gas (CO level), .
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Any will do. Its a loose brown earth wire and the others are all earths as well plugged into a common earth point on the spoiler frame. Do't think will solve the problem though. Headlight switch as advised. .
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Ian Taylor, Unit 21, School Street Industrial Estate, Hazel Grove. (Opposite the Bull's Head, Torkington Road/down the Buxton side of McDonalds.) One man operation and reasonable cost. Comes by word of mouth when I asked the saem question a couple of years back.. Used him a couple of year back and cannot fault the work he did for my Mk3 Scirocco. Works on anything restoration wise including early VW's from the 1980's. Had a Pink Jaguar E Type in for resto work when my job was being done. Just depends what you want to have done, not sure about the welding side but prep & spray was what he was recommeded for when I was searching around. .
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Late Headlight Switch....New Batch Delivered. Fit All Corrado's.
RW1 replied to 8vMatt's topic in Forum Group-Buys
Take the switch rocker cover off and paint the LED with black paint. . -
Late Headlight Switch....New Batch Delivered. Fit All Corrado's.
RW1 replied to 8vMatt's topic in Forum Group-Buys
Matt neatly removes the connector keyway before he send out the switches. So the switch will plug straight into a RHD or LHD / Early or Late Build Corrado. . -
He was forced to sell the VR6 he bought with Club funds and give the money back along with the rest he took. Only 1 Corrado involved, the red 16v was sold at the time of the changeover and had nothing to do with Club funds. Still haven't destroyed the 3 inch thick lever arch file with all the paperwork of what went on that year. CCGB heirloom I suppose these days. . .
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http://www.theplatemarket.com/display_of_registration_numbers.php .