RW1

It would helpful to have the chassis number with you. Just like the dealer Parts Dept. Engne number as well if its a part in the bay area. .

Ah, you reminded me. Above post amended. The is no VW "official" method of bleeding the ABS valve block on the Teves 04. First of all, the actual valve block would be difficult to bleed as it needs to open its various ABS/EDL valves to allow fluid to flow. That can't be done with VCDS. VW treat the valve block as an enclosed no serviceable item at the car. Rigs can be bought for the Teves 04 which allow you to drain & fill the inner workings using hydraulic connections and signal control of the individual valves. The main point is that unless the ABS or EDL is on operation, the inner valve part is not in operation under normal braking. NB. There is a VW warning not to run the pump continuously for more than 30 seconds at a time. No cooling off period is given. .

Padding out the body of the switch will prevent it working. The plastic side walls are thin and distort easily. Plus you could cause the internal slider contact plate to slew. Thats when you get a short and you soon know about it with a loom wrecked in a blink of an eye. Put the earth wire fuse in....... .

I wondered if you had gone on the tour,,,,,, glad to see you enjoyed it. Storm was not as good as it looked in my photos back in 1999. And that mud was on it then from all the UK press driving. VW H. Yes, moved a while back when I was last chatting to them. There was a 3 page spread in last months VW Driver about them in the new premises although they have been there for some time now. .

RH Drive Teves 04 brakes and ABS..... does not use VCDS! VCDS only applies to LH Drive cars for the Corrado, do not follow the Bentley or any other LH Drive manual. These Corrados use Teves O2 brakes. For Teves 04 - bleed as you would normal braking system. Open: (VW recommend vacuum bleeding for RHDrive ABS & EDL, vacuum assistance for RHD & LHD non ABS system and LHD is pressure bled.) 1st) Rear Right & bleed through. 2nd) Rear Left & bleed through. 3rd) Front Right & bleed through. 4th) Front Left & bleed through. Bleed through of the rears is generally acheived with about 200ml of fluid, front is less. Recommended is 500ml per position. Then Clutch slave but make sure the reservoir level is always above the top off feeding the clutch circuit (halfway down the sidewall of reservoir). (For others) Clutch is different in that... connect up the bleeder and open the Clutch Slave cylinder nipple on top of the gearbox and vacuum bleed/pressure bleed as usual. Now BY HAND (never let go until its in the fully up position and the spring assist isn't pulling on the pedal), push while holding the Clutch pedal for a major part of the travel. Still holdiing the pedal, pull it back up to the top again and repeat slowly again. Close the Slave Cylinder bleed nipple. Thats it done. Note: the Clutch pedal is sprung assisted so within a short distance of the stroke starting, it will go forward under the spring pressure. If not held, it will dissappear PDQ up into the underdash area - so do keep hold of it. Always best to vacuum feed or pressure feed rather than continuously pump the Brake pedal. Continuous pumpng makes the Master Cylinder seals go hot and the older they are, the more likely the seals are likely to pop and fail. Tip 1: Make sure the rear wheel bearing have no play in them. This holds the pads off more if slack due to them being taper bearings and the discs sliding sideways as you travel down the road. As a result of the pads being pushed wider apart, the brakes become soft. Tip 2: Car on level ground so the brake reservoir is above the rear calipers. After bleeding with a vacuum sucking system & closing the bleed nipple, remove the bleeding system connection and just open the bleed nipple and let gravity drive out some fluid. With a vacuum system, it can suck air up the bleed nipple thread and on closing lodge a small air bubble just ahead of the bleed nipple when its closed. Opening under gravity gets it out if its there, You see it pop out as fluid rises onto your rag or kitchen towel catching the dribble of fluid. Once a about 10ml is out, close up the bleed nipple. ---------- Corrado on the level when doing it. (Not specified by VW) 2) Open the 3 bleed nipples not on the calipers a) Brake master cylinder b) Two on ABS unit. These will self-bleed under gravity so no need to pump the pedal. I have never force fed the system with these valves open. .

That has to be wiring. Look at the connectors for each near the headlight area - follow wiring back through bumper and upwards. There's a two pin connection in the looms. The only other point is a 2 way splice (for each fog +ve supply) inside the headlight wiring loom even further back. .

About nine years ago while house hunting. Should be all day unless I have a headache with an MoT on Thursday. PM me with address details as I see two locations in photos, one I don't recognise. .

The video shows an electrical problem of a rev counter boucing while the engine doesn't reflect that????? (and the can't do that while driving probably anyway!). Meter head and lambda won't solve it. Or is the rev counter reflecting what the engine is doing cos it doesn't sound like that.???? As someone posted earlier, check the wires, particularly the dizzy to ECU for bad connection/broken wire internally. If OK, cos you've done the dizzy and therefore the hall sender (a possible suspect), the only common part left to the engine not running right and rev counter dancing is the ECU if the wiring is not broken or there's not a loose connection. .

Fuse box plate should sit into a frame with the two lower big supports into the frame. At this point the white plastic pegs go over the large supports on the outside of the frame and lock into the vertical position. There are indents up the side of the plate wall for this to lock the "tail" into. Best to push as much as possible the bundling of wires into the top right far back corner to ease the pressure on the plate. .

Reason I ask is because one possible is the relief relay "X" and its 12 volt output voltage supply has failed if they listed above are also not working. The relay is marked "18" on the top face. Its in the No.4 position which is the second row of relays above the fuse row and 4th in from the centre console side. If the above wipers & internal fan don't work also, for the relay 18, 1) Check its there! 2) Push it fully home 3) Substitute just in case the contacts have got open circuit. .

After the engine plug pin 40, goes directly to the back of the relay plate on plug G1 (White connector) pin 4. From there it internally picks up the internal ignition 12 volt busbar. That is supplied from the ignition key switch directly, so to check that this works quickly, put into reverse gear and the reversing lights should come on. This proves the ignition switch is working and putting 12 volts onto the ignition busbar in the relay plate. .

Does the internal fan, front wipers, rear wiper work? .

Fuses 9 & 10. No common wiring. Check rear connection P (9 pin blue connector) on the back of the relay/fuse plate is fully home and locked into the plate, if you went there when changing the heater matrix. .

Its the ignition +12 volts supply to the coil pack. .

Well it can either end... clutch slave cylindr or clutch master cylinder. Slave is cheapest located on the top of the gear box with the curly pipe to it. Easy enough to do. But check one thing before doing so.... the brake fluid reservoir is full to the top shoulder just belwo the cap. The sidewall feed may have become uncovered letting air into the clutch hydraulic circuit. If it has dropped down the resevoir more than halfway, then inspect all your brake hoses (6 off) and brake pipe for a possible small leak. .

Check Fuse 3 out (10 amps). Check out the rheostat control in the switch across pins 58b and 58e for it showing cicuit with variable resistance. .

Sure its not the clutch fully disengaging? ie clutch slave or clutch master cylinder is on the way out. What happens if you put it in 1st gear and hold the clutch, does the car creep (on level gound)? .

Not to ask a daft question so to speak but a bit further back, there was postings regarding import duty. Singularly it may not happen but surely if a group buy brought in "X" number of kits at increased one order value, isn't it going to automatically attract Customs and therefore get loaded on the price with a tax hike. From previous experience with shippers, the sting arrives later when you think it hasn't happened cos the courier sends the details off to Customer after its been signed for in the UK. Just may be worth investigating...... .

That battery voltage 12.45v confirms the battery, don't think you will find anything else but the 0.05volts originally across the earths will not have helped its charging. Strap will be a good precaution. On the cylinder head sometimes there is a 10mm bolt hole between plugs 1 & 2. A short length bolt will secure the strap there but make sure it tightens up before bottoming out. Alternatively, find somewhere on the rocker cover securing points. On the alternator if its a Bosch, a nut can be treaded onto one of the 4 bolt end sticking out towards the centreline of the car to secure the strap eye. The earth strap is like the ones that earth the bonnet to the inner wings on the car. Just measured my 8v Scirocco. Earth to earth reading is 0.028 volts rock steady. 13.95volts across the battery terminals with engine running. .

Igniton pulses for rev counter & spark plug fires on ABF come from the Hall sender in Dizzy (replaced). The pulses from the dizzy go via the ECU and then split to the coil transistor and to the rev counter. If both rev counter ain't steady readings and coil ain't firing the plugs (so you have unburnt fuel), the only common factor besides the dizzy hall sender is the ECU. ???? .

Post up your Engine ECU group 6 field readings (4 readings). You may not need to reset if the readings are resaonable. Just Basic Settings on the throttle may suffice after you have fixed the Lambda/MAF. .

Ignore the across battery voltage with the battery and with alternator running, that is as expected. The fact the battery has held 12.65volts suggests it's OK. Clean up the battery connections with emery paper. Run an earth strap from the alternator body to the cylinder head (strap has eye ends, available from a motor factors). 8v's are bad for the earth between the alternator and engine block earth in earth return circuit of the alternator/battery. That voltage if its 0.05 volts is a little high. Ideally its usually around 0.02 to 0.03volts. The 14volts is ????. That suggests something is not normal with the alternator. Which way round with the DVM leads. Positive on the alternator = +14volts reading? Shouldn't be happening between the earth sides of the battery and alternator. All you should be seeing on the DVM is a few millivolts as above. The alternator earth side relies on the metal alternator mounting brackets to the engine and they go resistive with time. The check is the voltage drop between earths you have just done. Putting the earth strap on bypasses the resistance. .

14.04 volts across the battery terminals when alternator is charging is normal. Alternator is OK. 12.63 Volts is about what I'd expect if the battery is fully charged and is left standing for a while. Ignition won't fire up if the voltage drops during engine start cranking below about 10 volts. On car very quickly within minutes. Off car, an hour to two hours depending on the age of the battery. Measure the voltage with DVM to 0.** volts across the battery earth to alternator body earth while the engine is running at normal idle and report back. .

Bolt length changes between the gasket types. Fibre to rubber will mean the bolts are shorter in length. Hope there's enough threads for tightening otherwise you could strip the block holes. Rubber ones aren't as good as the fibre. I went the other way with a PAYEN JH5013 fibre gasket. £16. So far so good.

Correction.... Yellow sensor - Pins 1 & 4 for the fan run-on switch contacts. Only really matters on the sensor as on the yellow connector pins 3 & 4 are common earth side. Pins 3 & 4 have Brown with Green stripe wires. Pin 1 has Brown with White stripe. Pin 2 is the feed to the dash water temp. gauge, Blue with White stripe. Out tonight and engine ran at 94'C and 104'C oil temp, OAT was 14'C 60mph. Stopped and stage 1 fan on at 108'C water on dash dial, off at 106'C, cycling every 2 or 3 mins. (Bit lower than 110'C last week). VCDS reading about 97'C. Oil constant at 104'C Drove off with water at 106'C and oil at 104'C. Within a mile at 50mph water plunged to 85'C and oil to 102'C. Then water moved gradually back upto 94'C as the thermostat caught up closed down a bit and the oil rose back to 104'C, over the next 5 miles. Not until Friday earliest, providing you keep that guy in his 4x4 caged up. Last time I drove down your road he forced me all the way out in reverse, unsocialable bandit. .