RW1

Fairly simple.... The part is a Mk2 Golf part and perhaps for cheapness and import/export balancing, it was off-loaded by VW Wolfsburg to the Mexico press plant in 1994ish hence why some C's don't have the stamped M. in M.. Perhaps arises cos the MK2 had stopped so mass production demand at Wolfsburg ceased. We do it all the time to make parts for the aircraft. The presses have gone so we outsource the part from a small firm somewhere for the odd parts needed for repairs. Ordering 1 offs or 10 offs instead of 2,000 off a year say. Corrados at the last year were only about 400 to 500 cars per month. Different volume of production to the Golf Mk2 when it was being built. Karmann just bought in the part and welded it into the bodyshell on the line. Thats why the C is a Passat/Golf hybrid as many VW's are. Look at the parts list alot is not 535/536 parts (Corrado specific). .

It's not on the engine "pages". It's with the engine sensors such as the lambda probe. 021 907 601A is the part number. .

yep Plus measure the resistance of the as 1kohm +/-300ohms. Front sensors can be done at the wheel hubs. Rear have not connection at the wheels, the plug break is under the the left and right rear passenger seat squabs (bit you sit on). .

Don't forget the import tax! .

IIRC the loom is all over the car, back right qtr, across front into the doors and fuse relay panel. Maybe not an easy one. .

Types for the UK, ABS only, ABS + EDL (Traction Control) Read the bottom of this thread. :oops: doh, it helps if I press the "paste" button http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= .

Yeah, it's just "feels" tuffer cos of the prescribed faults the tester can list if there are warnings or failure. A car that passed last year should pass this year given it's the same and no deterioration. . :-P

Standard Mk2 Golf item on Ebay all the time. ie. 191 959 875 Here's one. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-16V-VR ... dZViewItem .

Yes, by the rear right passenger seat behind the side trim. .

. = marker (I'll be back shortly). read your PM. .

Charge the battery on slow 4 to 6 amp charge for 24 hours, should make it to above 14.9 volts if good. If it gets only to about 14.25 volts iffy. Leave for about 6 hours after that and see what voltage it drops to. Anything lower than 12.25volts isn't good. Best to really tocharge up and get a battery load test done locally somewhere to be sure. That should drop below 9.8 volts to pass for a VW. .

Use it all the time. Ebooks are locked to the PC they are down loaded to and the susbscriptions are annual & automatically renewed without notice on your card - be warned!. They are workshop manuals, not Haynes style but akin to Bentley but slightly less friendly in some areas. Much more expensive than the Bentley which is the USA compilation version of the "americanised" VW equivalent manuals. It's been going as a web site since 1998. They seem to have deleted all but 5 manuals out of the 20 ish in the last few weeks that make up the Bentley equivalent. .

Naughty, naughty.... :nono: Patience grasshopper, it does eventually appear. :lol: :lol: .

Conlog Logic 900 siren connections are: 1 = Battery +ve 12 volts 2 = Battery –ve 0 volts 3 = alarm negative output (which not directly earth). .

Battery. In using it, the compression has increased due to oil lubrication so the battery has not had enough this time round or you've left something one that drained it a little too much. .

Know of one VR6 that busted the timing chains at 150kish but maintenance on the engine was very dubious to say the least so may be taht was an extreme case. The chain tensioners is usually the issue as some above have experienced. Should plan to do a timing chain & tensioners change when the clutch or gearbox is off in the mileages above 130kish as a matter of preventative maintenance. .

According to the paper work last month, the MoT paperwork is worthless. You have to prove the details held on the central computer are correct about the MoT. I printed a copy of that off as proof of the record at the time the MoT was done but if someone interfers with the datafile, I'm stuffed! The MoT details were on their website within the hour! So access to the database is live. The next stage of this is static & mobile reg plate readers (already in place) referencing the database. Good news in a way as hopefully it will remove unisured, non-MoT'd etc vehicles off the roads and lower insurance premiums - one hopes! This (MoTs) has all happened since 1st Jan 2006 (I think) so any experiences prior to that may not relate. I was left last month with a distinct feeling that the MoT has been made harder as the "licenced" MoT testers are more accountable (and that's my local friendly garage man!). ie. if it has failed and no work has been done, they are countering a "failed" condition and must have very good reason to change the standard already recorded, ie. they need to see visible rectification, etc.. And as usual for the change, there's more paperwork given to you. Left me quite depressed looking at the warnings............. :cry: Their description being from a prescribed list was much more severe than the previous two years for the same warnings, ie. a small stone caused glass bubble in the windscreen away from the driver's sight line almost sounds like I need to change the windscreen yet it is well with the MoT test pass band. .

Probably right. I think it stems from the available computer descriptions of faults that the MoT man has to select from to annotate your certificates. Noticed on mine last month on my Scirocco for the exact same faults (warnings) last year that hey felt more severe, yet the car hadn't changed in those areas. They won't test it! It's failed! Thats one of the reasons for computerising it so that youCAN'T take it round the corner and get past by another garage. .

Stanard struts will settle outside the max camber. Also, it will alter the tracking significantly. All will affect the handling quite badly if you do this, particularly in the wet as the tyres will be put into a slight slipping situation continously so in the wet, a skid/slide will happen straight away. NOT recommeded!! .

01276 – ABS Hydraulic Pump V64 – Signal not to tolerance. V64 is the reference wiring diagram unit number for the ABS pump. First the simple ones to check, then more effort involved...... On the pump is a 4 way plug to the near-side by the suspension inner wing area under the cooling header tank. Pull it off and apply some WD40. Check for ABS lamp & fault code. Still a problem, measure the resistance across the pump connector (pump side) two inner pins (pins 2 & 3) of the 4 way connector (the two thin wires). This should read between 29 & 40 ohms. This is the pump sender. If not OK then the sender is part of the pump and not a separate part, so it’s a pump unit replacement job. If not that, then take off the lower door pillar kick panel and disconnect the ABS ECU connector (battery earth should be disconnected before doing this part. Across pins 49 & 31 of the connector, line out to the two thin wires on the pump connection above to check the wires are OK. If not that, then it’s the under dash out on the passenger footwell. Up behind the glove box, there are the 3 ABS relays. First of all check the two 30 AMP (green) fuses are OK. Next, change over the two inboard relays usually marked “179” (rhd only car). If this cures, then one of the relays is duff and needs to be replaced. These relays are not standard logic internally so it needs to like for like and the part number is 357 927 843A. They can be difficult to remove and are directly linked to the battery via the 30 amp fuses co-located so put no metal things near without the battery disconnected such as a screw driver. I suspect it will be the ABS pump sender that has gone skyward. .

Given the difference in engine displacement 1.8 to 2.9, the G60 cat will not cope possibly the gas flow or be fully effective (MoT). .

Good one. Did you split the pump open to look at the bore of the relief valve? .

Hello, dissappointment on this one, the diagnostics are analogue (blink code) and can only work by running the car and then looking with a VAG1551 with analogue card fitted. Faults are lost on ignition off. So..... not a VAG-COMable Corrado. Taking battery won't upset the engine electronics, too early a system for that sort of thing. Suggest you look at the alarm immobiliser priming when it shouldn't and also the fuel pump relay, located in the bottom row up against the door piller end, last relay in the row - maybe marked "67". The positive +12 volts wire on the fuel pump connector on top of the tank is red/yellow. It splits in the boot to the main pump under the car. At the relay/fuse box, its coming out of the third black plug on the top row starting at the passenger side (plug "M"). .

Correct part for all VR6 years including 1995 model. .

The wire colours are red/yellow (12 volts) and brown (earth). At the fuse/relay panel, the black plug is “M” which located on the top row, 3rd from the passenger side (RHD car), pins 1 (brown) & 2 (red/yellow). ie. plug is Black, black, >>black The wires split in the boot lower right area, probably near the fuel tank sender to drive the main pump and the lift pump in the tank. .