RW1

Daft. .

VR6 - Vibra-Technics 950M 8v/16v/G60 - Vibra-Technics 750M But these part numbers are 10 years old. .

I only did the front one when VT started marketing the mounts. It's still there and doing its job. With the 3 year old OEM factory fiited unit, 20,000 mile used, I had 1st & 2nd Gear jamming on change due to the torque moving the engine and locking up the cable change. (Nothing visibly wrong with the VW one on removal but it's badly designed to cause failure as well as being too soft.) Fitting the VT stopped the jamming and effectively made the gear change like a rod change system. Increased vibration, well not notice any. .

:shock: Thought Kip had the infleunce of that! Thought you had been looking under my White Scirocco. Thats how I held the back axle beam together with tie wraps!!!! :norty: :norty: .

Love the tie wrap Judith! un point! :lol: Keep going, its looking well. :salute: .

Also check you vacuum connection/pipes to the servo, maybe worth doing before you take the servo out. Emkayvr6 is a good check but the full vacuum required may not be there to drive the brakes at full strength. .

That procedure doesn't apply to the UK RHD Corrado, thats the Teves 02 brake system, UK is Teves 04 on VR6. UK is bled using standard brakes technique of RR, RL, FR and FL in that order. Just open the bleed screws and fluid through by what means, special bleeder or pumping the brake pedal. .

Take it to the professionals like Chips Away. Corrado factory paint is already toooooooooo thin to start with (below VW standard). If you don't really know what you are doing, it's likely to turn out worse. If Chips can't sort it, most likely a full panel respray, if you want to be A1 again. .

The loom will make the more worthwhile upgrade as it puts the volts/amps directly onto the lamps from th ebattery rather than the long way round upto the dash headlight switch and back to the headlights. even standard lights are miles better. If still not satisfied, then fit better headlight lamps. .

Plugs OK as you say. Cams look polished but not worn (no mileage to judge but not a big thing here) Take the coil pack off rather than spraying water!. Look for cracking and arcing paths, including inside the outer casing. Check ignition leads are 5k ohm +/- 1kohm generally and check inside the plug caps to see if the electrode connections are clean. This sort of problems doesn't usually throw ECU errors unfortnately. Back to good old basic engine mechanics and detective work. .

I was thinking along these lines too, lambda appears to be ignored at WOT (i.e. just inserts a 1 regardless as seen in the log) so will probably be some other fault scenario. However it does seem to generate a WOT adaption level, quite how I do not know. That fits the cold start /warm-up period where the Lambda is not in circuit and the ECU assumes a value (=1.00). .

Meths leaves a white "anti-drink" deposit. Better to use isopropyl alcohol, commonly found is tape head clear cleaning solutions. Can be bought but the minmum quantity outweighs the job it's needed for. .

"I found that just changing Fuel WOT MAP 1 works, so what MAP 2 does if a mystery, answers on a postcard please! Or a PM will do." I wonder if that is the "limp home mode"?? If it is there may be a lower rpm limit as LHM limits the revs. Alternatively, the other map is the warm-up phase, which is used until the Lambda sensor is fully operational. .

Maybe but there were about 8 right hand drive C's made with Speedlines in this colour/interior combination while the Storms passed down the line as part of the last UK orders. At least two have been rebadged as Storms with Solitudes. .

The plugs aren't really "gapped". The plugs don't spark across the gap you can see. The spark travels from the electrode along the insulator and jumps onto the underside of the outer two electodes. The plugs are bought pre-gapped and don't need adjustment. Worn out when about 1/3rd of the underside of the outer two electordes has gone. .

If the engine is ignition on, engine stopped, ignore 00513. 00515 may be genuine and your engine is in "get you home mode". Reset the codes and if 00515 re-appears, change the cam position sensor. But...... if the top end of the engine has been recently been done suspect the cam drive chains have been put back incorrectly. If so a top end job, check all valve / cam/ chain alignment first.

The right hand drive brake system (Teves 04) does not use VAGCOM. Using VAGCOM and procedures relates to LHD Corrados. Only step one can be done.

"I don't think there is an ECU reset for the 16v... There is one for the VR, but that's a far more complex ECU." No reset procedure required. Put into "Basic Settings", Select Group 00 Blip the throttle to 3,000 rpm and leave idling for 1 minute. Check field position 9 has got a value of 5 in it.

Conlog not supported since late 1999. Doubt if the dealers know how to drive the 900's complicated Conlog fob kit. Quite a complicated procedure to follow in the manual. Best to see if you can get it cloned at an alarm specialist. .

It needs a body shop to cut a rectangular hole in the bit under the number plate light plus drill two bolt holes for the securing points, one each side of the large rectangular one. Red light unit will then sit snug on the body work. .

No. Part is just straight swop. But do try the connector WD40 trick first as there is a VW Bulletin on 1995 - 1997 cars for bad connections due to micro-corroding connection pins. All post Oct'94 Corrados (Chassis 50SK000719 onwards) with the key immobiliser are prone to it as are other VWs 1995 - 1997. Once WD40'd, it does last years. .

Cable must be electrically isolated not optically isolated. V409.1 minimum, v3** doesn't work with 9A. Baud rate speed is critical, must be set to 4800 in the set up BEFORE the engine ECU is interrogated otherwise the ECU chokes. Reset by switching off ignition and back on again before trying to interrogate the ECU again. .

Sounds like your copy of VAG-COM is not registered! BS only available on registered copies of the software. ECU has no infleuence on what you describe. .

3 wires means analogue (blink code) diagnostics - VAG-COM not useable.

If the ECU imobiliser, chassis has to be after 50SK000719. A fault code for this does exist - 17978 Engine control unit blocked. If not there, then don't suspect the ECU immobilisation or the coil reader for the key. WD40 the connector pins and gently work the connector to scrape the pin surfaces at the immobiliser box (if fitted) inside the dash behind the headlight switch. Bottom box, top is spoiler control. 3 wire connection coming from the steering column. You will need to remove the parcel shelf & fuse cover parcel shelf under the dash to get at it. If it is this, WD40 lasts, mine - 8 years so far. Sometimes just disturbing the wires in the area like you may have done replacing th relay can "ease" the situation for a while by accident. .