RW1

A click or two in the dash suggests the VAGCOM software is OK. I'd look at the interface you bought off fleabay. The software is crashing because there is no reply coming back. .

VW Concours D'Elegance in the true sense on the VW scene was set out in a judging sheet by ABVWC - Association of British VW Club some 25 years ago (I think???). It lays out 7 sections, each with a score out of 20 (total 140). They also assigned classes into which VWs could be entered. Class 14 is normally Water Cooled Coupes (Scirocco & Corrado) but these days due to lack of entries, some shows are not sticking strictly to the original guidelines. It was so all the local clubs could judge VWs to the same standard. Some of those smaller clubs now have larger shows like Stanford Hall, Stonor Park & BVF Malverne. Sections 1. Paintwork & Panels Originality, freedom from damage, original colour, hood & bag for Cabrio 2. Exterior Trim Completeness from damage, originality 3. Wheels & Tyres Cleanliness. Freedom from damage. Five identical tyres (space-saver exception) Wheel original type/colour with correct hub caps if fitted, or factory option at the time at the time of manufacture. 4. Underbody Cleanliness. Freedom from damage and rust, obvious signs of welding. 5. Interior Cleanliness. No tears or excessive wear, correct functioning of parts, originality. 6. Luggage Compartment Originality, cleanliness and tool kit. 7. Engine & Engine Compartment Originality & cleanliness including underside of the engine. Penalty Points Not licensed or trailered to the event - deduct 10 points ill fitting or unsuitable/none period accessories Deduct up to 3 points for lack of tool kit Deduct points as appropriate for others eg. Koni shocks. ---------------------------- Basically the judge is knowledgeable about the VW model. He will be looking for how the Scirocco/Corrado compares with the day it rolled off the production line. I tell you, that is hard..... Class 14 Sciroccos Mk1 & 2 & Corrados covers 21 years of manufacture at Karmann. I visited the showrooms regularly [dreaming!] (sitting in and looking at the new cars), have the all brochures (both car & accessories), original parts lists of the time and magazine articles for reference so have a fairly strong background but it can still be hard sometimes when a car on the show line throws up something. So for instance in judging a car, given the age and mileage of a car, if the axle beams/sub-frames as original in black paint with a little rust, that would fair better, as would a restored with chassis black paint or similar black paint. But a squeaky clean finished with Nylon powder coating, hmmm. Why? Cos the car never left the factory with that finish. Where the latter would fair better is in a Show & Shine or Custom Concours. Same for suspension, original shocks even if not in the best state will fair better over say a set of Yellow Koni shock absorbers. Another is paint finish... all Sciroccos & Corrados were hand painted for colour and if lacquered, passed under a spray bridge in the open factory. The produces a certain ripple finish to the paintwork. The finish if picky could be taken into account. An example of an ill fitting accessory is the "headlight loom". Not factory, so some points deducted. At the end of the day, the judge will look at all the cars in the same way. A Concours prepared car may not fair well in other competitions because preparation of the car is different. So pick your competition and think through the rules by which it will be judged. For instance Stanford Hall, Stonor Park & BVF all use the same ABVWC sheet. So I compete in those. I go to VW NWest Tatton park and it's a lottery for me because the judging sheet is different, the judging criteria is different. In all you enter for the fun of it and to show off your prize possession to the visitors of the show. ----------------------------------- Radios, not sure about 1993 for the UK. A lot of VWs didn't come from the factory with radios. They had a blanking panel fitted. It was an era when dealers fitted either Sony or Panasonic or Blaupunkt units in the main. As long as it was one of these and correct model for the car's year, it would be fine. 535 601 173C in May 1998 was £2 including VAT. Much the same today if available. .

If you've retained the standard bolts for the struts onto the wheel hubs, this applies..... The suspension settings can only be changed on the front suspension. They differs according to the engine size fitted. Both steering tie rods are adjustable. ONLY THE OFFSIDE TRACK ROD SHOULD BE ADJUSTED TO CORRECT THE FRONT WHEEL TOE. The nearside track rod has an identical adjustment to allow it to be changed in length when a wider tyre is fitted than that at the factory originally. This only applies when the tyre tread face width is 185mm or wider is to be fitted. (NB. If the nearside tie rod is adjusted by accident, it is necessary to remove it to regain the correct length!) Tracking and camber adjustments should be entrusted to a garage/tyre specialist who has the correct equipment. Tracking is adjusted by releasing the lock nut at the wheel end of the offside tie rod and turning. The lock nut is tightened to 37 ft.lb. Camber is adjusted by slackening the two bolts at the lower end of the suspension strut where it joins the wheel bearing housing. The Corrado does not have a mechanical cam bolt arrangement to make small camber adjustments. Instead it is very crude. Move the wheel by hand to the desired position and tighten, then measure and adjust if necessary. Both the upper and lower strut/bolt positions have free movement. If there is insufficient movement to achieve correct camber, then a special “thin” bolt is available from the dealers, part no. N 101 740 01 which will allow approximately a further 1° of movement. This is fitted to the upper bolt position. Under extreme cases, a second can be fitted to the lower position. The two bolts are tightened to 59 ft.lb The rear suspension is fixed. Out of tolerance indicates damage has occurred which can result in abnormal tyre wear. Corado Suspension Settings.jpg[/attachment:2qbbdg4g] Note these are the standard settings and struts. If they are looking for an adjusting cam bolt, it isn't fitted to the Corrado. The bolt being solid isn't right if you are to get adjustment, so may be worth getting hold of the narrower bolt mentioned above and trying it in the lower position. .

Nope. Late only shape is part number 535 898 123A. Bought mine in July 2009. Was £84.37 + VAT so they ain't playing silly games with prices. So TPS is good. .

Besides wheel cap puller 357 012 244, there is also a short length version 357 012 244A. If you want one with longer fingers (+2cm), then 8D0 012 244A is another I have (much better and easier to use). Wheel caps: - 867 601 173 is common to both 4 and 5 wheel bolt configurations. Satin Black finish - 535 601 173B are for VW locking wheel bolts on a 4 bolt pattern. Satin Black finish - 535 601 173C are for VW locking wheel bolts on a 5 bolt pattern. Satin Black finish The wing bolts are 311 821 143. They have been standard since the Air-cooled Beetle days. What makes the slam panel different is the lipped washers instead of plain flat type wahsers. These lipped washers aren't listed anywhere on VW or Audi although a couple of washers do show that may be them...... 411 821 185 and 211 805 189, if someone wants to risk a couple of quid to test out. It is a very long shot! As is practise from time to time VAG rationalise the spare parts that will "make do" universally for repairs. This bolt & washer 311 821 143 has been the standard slam panel spare bolt/washer even when the Corrado was in production. So the lipped washer is a "Karmann thing", never listed against the Corrado as a spare. I've just checked on the car, there is no part number on the lipped washers (not unusual for sundry parts). So Concours is not quite possibe without robbing from elsewhere, ie a Corrado being scrapped. Something else for me to watch for when judging next year ;) :lol: .

Yep, just about to post that up Steve .... black bolts on slam, wing bolts painted over.. Calipers are like they are now on new VW's :) .

ABS Connection.jpg[/attachment:281xvs9n] If its only since you cleaned the wheel arches, then it's most likely one of the front two ABS Sensors that is triggering a fault. The cause is usually ingress of some moisture. Behind each front wheel disc brake, there is a plug break to the sensor (see photo - green arrow). Pull off and apply WD40 both the plug and the sensor socket. Then reconnect. Classic problem, particularly the left (kerb) side one. .

Just to make life a little easier............. bumped into this one...... Front index is English, middle is Russian (you'll just have to learn!) but importantly the pages & illustrations are English..... Corrado ETKA .

Just a post note for those who will use a Vacuum Bleeding System method like I do. I always find that air is drawn into the bleed valve area of the caliper no matter how little the valve is loosened. Air is drawn in via the thread of the bleed valve/caliper hole. After nipping up the bleed valve, I remove the vacuum attachment. Then re-open the valve and catch the brake fluid with a paper kitchen towel. Gravity will make the fluid gently run out (providing the brake fluid reservoir position is above the level of the caliper). Any air bubbles around the valve in caliper will pop out and usually do!. Allow about 1cc to come out and look for air bubbles. If OK, re-tighten. I also do this again about a week later. Just refreshed the system as said. Brakes a little soft on test. Undid each bleed valve again, ..... the front left, one small air bubble. If the fluid didn't run out under gravity in the past, each time I found it to be an internally collapsed rubber brake hose. .

535 827 571 F - Correct for later UK Corrados as (to my knowledge) the VW factory anti-theft alarm system wasn't fitted to or offered as an option on UK models. (Chassis 50RK 006001 onwards) 535 827 571 G - This lock mechanism has an additional micro-switch and connection on its side for connection the the VW anti-theft alarm system. .

For a Vr6 was built with 021 103 157, now 021 103 157A. .

Ah a clue. On the LHD Corrado VR6 photo I have, THAT pipe turns into the scuttle wall between the two heater matrix pipes coolant pipes. There must be a loose plastic pipe inside the dash below the scuttle's floor panel. Its part of the cruise control that goes to the vacuum vent/relief valves the pedals press and also the vacuum actuator unit that drives the accelerator. With it not connected, the crusie shouldn't work??? because there is no vacuum possible in the system to drive the vacuum unit on the accelerator. See fig 2 here..http://www.discotrek.co.uk/pictures/T4/cruise%20con.pdf. .

The part numbers listed as correct 1J0 927 803 & 804 They do look cheap. Have seen VW parts sold by 3rd parties with VW part numbers on but not the logo?? You takes your risk, its Ebay! .

The reason for doing it is the fluid is common to the brake circuits so effectively you are leaving "old" fluid in the system. This will contain moisture which will cross contaminate given time via the reservoir. As previous, did mine this week as part of the brake system change. No problems. Took about 10 minutes. Vacuum out fluid initially, then left the tube connected to the slave and pumped the pedal (holding it all the time!) a few times slowly to push bvrake fluid up the tube (no vacuum). Then nipped up the slave valve with the head of fluid still in place. Mawrick, can only think there been an air lock with yours. .

I think we are the same. About 1.5cm diameter shiney black pipe.?? Need a much closer photo otherwise. .

If you mean the one that runs off the engine by the coil pack onto the back bulkhead.... its the brake servo vacuum pipe. .

No, the switch doesn't stop working - except for the internal illumination! The fuse is protecting the earth wire in the headlight loom solely used for the switch illumination. It protects against a dash fire or melt down of the headlight loom. It plays no part in the sidelights & headlights. The light symbol illumination not working means two things, a short ie, the fuse has blown or the little green bulb inside the switch has blown but the fuse is OK. If the fuse has blows, then yes the switch will continue to work the Corrados lights but it may be at risk due to a faulty switch or loom problem. Advisable to check the switch soonest / headlight wiring loom and establish what has happened. The most likely cases are: - New replacement switch is faulty, should have carried out the pre-check in this topic. - Internal collapse mechanically of the switch leading to the crossing of 12 volts with the earth. - Using partially broken switch which mechanically squews the switching plate inside so 12 volts contacts the earth internally. If it is the small green bulb inside that has blown, the switch will continue to work the sidelights & headlights normally. .

Simples, just drop in the tank, it'll sit down in the rough orientation it came out, locate in the bottom, then twist clockwise. Paint will dry faster than this one :lol: Have confidence. Like I wrote earlier, you did the hard part getting that locking collar off the top of the tank. :wink: .

Er... right this thread takes some reading! :cuckoo: Edit: Rob's all there with it :clap: I was in the middle of typing.......... My picture of the two pumps, new & used (ex crashed Storm) are VDO 4 bar pumps and one has a VDO sender on the side. Pump is part number 1H0 919 651Q, sender is part number 535 919 673 (no longer available). Part number for the white with blue clipping sender, pat no. 535 919 673B is for the 3 bar presure pump (1H0 919 651P) which is unsuitable pump for the VR6 as the fuel pressure regulator is set to 3.5bar. The replacement pump I can see in the tank is a VDO unit, 1H0 919 651Q so the sender part is as above 535 919 673 originally but is superceded by 535 919 673C as Rob states. .

G60 plugs are Bosch W6DPO. German Swedish & French are still listing them on their website. VW will have stopped stocking them cos there is no demand like a lot of parts on older cars. They'll make them or acquire them while there is turnover. GSF ref. - 905AA1240 SPARK PLUG-W6DP0 G2 G60 4/90 >7/91 £9.50 each .

The bleed valve is right on the outer end of the master cylinder on UK or LHD Corrados. Just doing my brake fluid at the moment . I won't do it as I haven't broken down the system. If you have let the reservoir go down too far, then it is advisable to check the master cylinder bleed valve. Do this valve after the slaves. Bleed it by just opening with a rag to hand. If no bubbles. Just close again. Doesn't need a vacuum on it as there is no length other than the thickness of the master wall and the valve length. Gravity will force the fluid to flow. .

Is the sender mis-reading or just not at all. I have known them to pop out of the side slot and be lying on the bottom of the tank! .

Fuse is 15 amp (1989), 10 amp (1990 - 1992), No.10 position. Relay is marked 53, position - bottom row, 3rd from the drivers door side. Current flow Relay then fuse inside the relay panel. Fuse panel "out" via connector P - to Light switch, grey wire with yellow stripe. Enters light switch on 5/83 terminal. Exits light switch on 3/83a terminal. Switch to relay panel again connector P "in". The "out" is on connector A on a white with yellow stripe wire to a loom splice. After loom splice, white with yellow stripe continues to left front fog. Splice to right front fog is brown with yellow stripe. Rear fog is switch terminal 4/83b out. Then grey with white stripe via relay panel "in" connector P. The "out" is via connector K - wire still grey/white. There is a loom in-line connection in the engine compartment left side. .

The adjuster is part of the sender unit. The sender unit is clipped in down the side of the unit by the two fingers visible in the middle of the side wall of the pump. In the first photo you can see the gap on the left pump unit where no sender is fitted where the "diamond" ribbing is. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCN7443a.jpg[/attachment:36zy3ya9] DSCN7444a.jpg[/attachment:36zy3ya9] Now you really are invading my parts dept.!! :lol: .

OK, having got the pipes and the big ring collar off, you've cracked the hard part! :clap: It's a good thing the tank fuel level being low. Just make sure you are doing the job in a well ventilated area with igintion off. Ideally the battery earth should also be disconnected. DSCN7442a.jpg[/attachment:12l2fjlv] The pump is held to the bottom of the tank by four attaching points. See red arrows in the photo. Note the position of the sender unit on the side of the pump in the tank for later. Will help knowing its back in roughly the same position. Turn the pump unit about 3 cm on its circumference in an anti-clockwise direction and lift the pump out. You may have to jiggle it around a bit to get it to come out of the tank hole but it's not an awkward job. Be mindful of it having some fuel inside which will dribble out. Large old towel or the likes maybe useful to have around. The sender is clamped/clipped to the side of the fuel pump. Watch the adjustment calibration screw is not moved (black threaded plastic rod.), the item at the end of the green arrow. Watch when removing/fitting the sender as the white plastic can be brittle and crack. Refitting is the reverse. Use the sender unit position as rough alignment point get the unit in the correct position, then lock it into the tank bottom by a 3cm turn clockwise. That flat face on the side of the pump at the top in the photo faces the right (off-side) side of the car when in the tank. .