RW1

Nope, and so its the right stuff you get hold of, I used B&Q White Spirit. ;) .

i find its rubbish at removing anything other than tar, which its very good at removing! i would look for a sticky glue remover, there must be something better to use All you need to do it is use white spirit (not turps), a paint brush, an old credit card and a cover for the engine bay - decoration sheet from B&Q. 1. Use the credit card to shave off the foam. 2. Brush on white spirit, cos of the slope of the bonnet, apply at the top of the pad area and brush down. 3. Wait about 15 mins, apply some more white spirit. 4. Allow to soak for about an hour. 5. When it's ready to come off, the adhesive will droop off the under bonnet. Use the credit card to take it off. Any stubborn areas, apply more white spirit. 6. Wipe the areas clean with a cloth damped in white spirit. 7. Wash the areas with car shampoo and water, wipe dry. It'll take about 4 hours including waiting time. .

The point of the fuse in the earth wire is to protect due to an "unusual" failure in the switch. ie. the switch goes mechanically u/s and leads to a short or as stated can be supplied new with a soldering fault internally (numerous have occurred that I know of since the first I came across in 1997). The headlight fuses are after the headlight switch in the circuit. VW assume loom wiring will be generally safe once installed. By splitting the circuits after the switch, more of the circuits continue to work if one unit in the circuits fails resulting in a short circuit. ie. if a headlight bulb shorts on failure, then the other headlight bulb continues to operate. To put a fuse ahead of the switch means a large fuse rating ~40 - 50 amps. With a fuse that size, the earth wire would be toast before the fuse blew or would probably delay the circuit protection and some damage would result to the loom between the headlight switch and the fuse relay panel. .

An excellent day! Very good turn out. Nice to meet you all. A special thanks to the hosts Dave & Graham and wonderfull assistants in making a 1st birthday celebration a good one :clap: Gzzz, that VR is faaaaaaaaast. :eek: 2 out of 4 VAGCOM'd Corrados fixed on the spot, what a team DG Autotech !! .

Not really. Its VW's way of fusing circuits that leads to the problem. The 12 volts to the switch no matter which wire input are not fused. This earth wire if made to contact inside a switch....... Mk2 switch may be more robust but if it does fail, effect will be the same. For a few bob, it's peace of mind. .

Yup, was part of the problem in the late version switches I have. Hence the route with the Maplin one I posted earlier. The more directional, the more problematical the illumination as the switch cover symbol and "ring" move relatively to the LED beam. Right for one switch position, go to the other end of the switch rocking, the illumination has disappeared. .

Hi Steve, This one would be better now to sticky as it pulls in all the info and the other is referenced by Dave's first posting. Just add this one, don't I think there's anything else lying around??? viewtopic.php?f=19&t=19701 .

Too dim, tried that type first, miles dimmer than the standard little green bulbs. Tried Maplin's 3 volt ones, again at the time not bright enough. Needs a pair of bright LEDS. LEDs were green from maplin, part number N30BY http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=45930 End up with a metal film resistors from RS Spares part number 144-295, 2.7K ohm, Metal Film 0.125w. Now superceded http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &x=29&y=15 (You need this physical size to get the resistors in without fouling the mechanics.) Maplin at the time didn't offer 0.125w resistors. And note the two small insulating sleeves in the photo on page 1 of my postings. The LED lens for the ring illumination need "damping" or it looks unbalanced so I painted a black blob of touch-up paint on the crown of the lens. This is the LED furthest from the dimmer control. Don't bother with paint on the other as it not as transparent and it needs the direct beam of the LED onto it. The fuse I used was a 1 amp standard blade fuse like the Corrado's type. Dave's 200 mA fuse will work just as well. I tested the 1 amp fuse on a length of same wire across a battery's terminals direct. Fuse blew, wire - no damaged found, it was instant. My switch operates a BRMotorsport headlight loom. It is always stone cold. Sticky? Get ur finger out! Should have been done in 2005 :lol: This topic has it all in one spot now for the headlight switch problems. No excuses now!!! .

. . . Another headlight switch question by RW1 » 23.11.2005, 17:41 Logic is correct as the ring is a sidelights only ON warning ring indication. So with/without ignition on in the sidelight position you get the ring. On headlights, it works only when ignition is knocked off, ignition off, knocks off the headlights, so the sidelights only warning ring comes on illuminates. Clever little diode buried deep inside the switch. The Lamp symbol is always on when the ignition is on no matter whether the lights are on or not. Switch locator illumination. Its in the owners handbook. :wink: .

they did in 2005 ! and its a locked thread viewtopic.php?f=19&t=31462 :wave: BBC repeats ! :lol: The fuse may protect but the root cause is two fold. 1. The VW switches can be made with a short built in due to poor soldering thus the additional fuse it protects against a short. So it always worth a check before fitting the switch. The pre-fit check is between pin 31 and all other pins in all switch positions! as below This because the manuafacturing solder fault bridges pin 31 (earth) and with the battery 12 volts direct and it's unfused. Hence why the fuse in the earth wire is fitted. Checking a replacement headlight switch before fitting With a meter on resistance setting, place one of the meter probes on the pin marked 31. Now in all three switch positions (off – sidelights – headlight), go round ALL the other pins. All should be open circuit with one exception relative to pin 31. If the switch has the original filament small bulbs fitted then pin 31 to pin X will show 16 ohms +/-3 ohms (unless it’s blown). If LEDs have been fitted, then on the ordinary Ohm settings on the meter (not diode test), it should be open circuit. If no direct short is detected in the any of the above tests, the headlight switch is safe to fit to the headlight loom in the dash. Corrado92.pdfVW Corrado Light Switch Internal Illumination Schematic.jpg[/attachment:z8kf625g] 2. The headlight switch is damaged by heat from the two internal lamps which results in mechanical failure and possible short electrically. Heres the switch with lamps fitted which generate a fair amount of heat............ passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfSwitch with Exisitng Lamps.jpg[/attachment:z8kf625g] This is the damage caused, the plactic lever plastic becomes brittle and breaks off as well as the light lens being distorted and burned......... climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfHeat damaged Headlight Switch.jpg[/attachment:z8kf625g] The solution is to fit two bright green LEDs & resistors............. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfLEDs and resistors in situ in Headlight Switch.jpg[/attachment:z8kf625g] The end solution looks like this.................... LED modifiied Headlight Switch installed.jpg[/attachment:z8kf625g] If a short now occurs with the switch and the additional fuse fitted, the indication is that the ignition illumination of the switch does not illuminate (assuming its not just the small green bulb that has failed). .

No. Just 00513. Also while 00515 is showing, the engine has reverted to limp home mode. Clearing the fault code puts the engine back to normal running untill it oocurs again. You will notice a difference. As volksworld13 for the lambda. Check wiring at the back of the offside of the engine for aging/break (particularly at the connector) due to heat. Look at the measuring block value. If frozen, it's not working anymore. It should be oscillating in the VCDS display field. Might be an idea to post what values range you are seeing in the field. .

Short to earth means the supplying wire is contacting directly to earth - ie contacting engine or bare bodywork. Open circuit means a broken wire clean through. What you need to do is in the bottom part of the post above. If not that, then I would be next looking at a broken wire internally inside the outer insulation where ever your wiggling corrects it. Testing the sensors can be done but cos the engine is able to work it suggests they are OK electrically. My bet is on a broken wire in one of the connectors. You are not just looking at the pins inside but also where the wires are crimped onto the connector's pins as the enter the connector body from the loom side. Top techy bit was aimed at anyone you take it to for a fix if you're not successful.

Hi Paul, For an 8v........... 00522 is the coolant temp sender G62 (Top hose connection to cylinder head)) Possibles - Shorted to earth - Open circuit - sender defective 00523 is Intake air temp sender G42 (Side of air filter box) Possibles - Short to earth - Open circuit Broken wire inside one of the connectors or corroded connections inside the connectors? Check which one you are wiggling aganst the positions above. Doesn't sound like the sensors themselves are at fault. Chris

Brake Pedal Position Sensor - VW Part 357 927 810.jpg[/attachment:29br7pw2] Fits all Corrados from chassis 50MK014975 onwards if RHD and fitted with ABS. ----------- Part in the photos looks like the ones I have as spares. .

I originally posted up this fix years ago. You DO need an interface lead that is electronic, not optical for the 9a engine ECU and the minimum version is v409, earlier won't work. You also need to reduce the Baud Rate before engaging the ECU otherwise the ECU will "choke". To clear the "choke", back out of VCDS all together, then the ignition needs to be off for a few seconds and then turned back, then back in with VCDS on until you get it right, then it will be plain sailing. You cannot change the baud rate while the VCDS is actively engaged or trying to engage the ECU. Not much in the ECU to do once inside on the 16v! The interface lead I use for this is: Twin Com used is Ross-Tech's with v409 (Now VCDS Lite). Baud Rate: 4800, set thro' "Options" button. My laptop is set up to run two short cuts to two separate copies of VCDS. One for general usage, the other specifically set-up to access a 16v ECU with 4800 baud setting. .

Somebody's raised in a topic, so hopefully something will happen soon. In the meantime, you can use http://vw.vag-zapchasti.ru/model.php?name=COR but you'll need to understand Russian! :grin: .

The resistor is part of the EDL electrical circuit for driving the ABS pump motor. Not fitted means an ABS only brake system. .

H. Set it midway, best you can do. Need a pressure rig with two pressure gauges (VAG1310 Tool) to check the brakes are balanced correctly. Check is for one hydraulic circuit at a time, ie. front left/rear right or front right/rear left. Figures: Front reading 50bar Rear reading 27 - 33 bar. Front reading 100bar Rear reading 48 - 54 bar. If too low, move the valve block lever connection to increase spring tension, too high a pressure reading, slacken the spring tension. Photo is the original factory fitted compensator never removed/dis-assembled. On Koni's with standard springs so ride height is normal. (Ignore the brake fluid drip in the photo, mine had just failed its MoT in Sept'06 grrrrrrr) C.

Use a plastic scrapper, being careful with the paintwork. Brush on lots of White Spirit to remove the adhesive and leave soaking. The VW foam deadening kit was still available at VW last July for chassis 50MK011397 onwards which covers VR6. ie, the bulbous bonnet. Price £84.37 + VAT. Contains a kit of self adhering pre-cut pads - 5 off. Part number: 535 898 123A. When fitting the foam pads, make sure you've got it aligned up right cos they are hard to get off and adjust :) .

Nonsense! Read the Wiki. .

ECU - Look in the Wiki but its not the solution to the lumpiness. Its a throttle harmonistation procedure which has little bearing on this problem. I'd look at ignition leads, coil pack and for worn out plugs first. Ignition leads measure about 5k ohms +/- 1kohm. Look inside plug caps, should be metal clean. Check coil pack for cracks in and around the plug lead sockets and look for arcing tracking marks. You will need an extended plug cap removal tool as you can't just tug the leads. Temp sensors is just awkward cos they are down the middle back area of the radiator in line with the engine front corner, but it depend on whether the thermostat housing is brittle with age, so be gentle. Under a little curve cover which just pulls off if it is still fitted. .

Oil temps? Or water temps? Or both? Water temp gauge doesn't do much but about a 4'C to 6'C drop in oil temp is what I saw. "Closed" grille was fitted from 1994 onwards on all models when new. .

In fact the information was from an old sprinter magazine dated November 2000 issue number 17, Page 13 entitled "The perfect Storm" written by Steve Auty. I have a stack of sprinter mags from the original owner and now it has been passed down to me also. Ah yes, I'm the researcher who put all that info together as the original Tech-Know File - 19th January 1999. :wink: Yes, way back in 1996 -1997. Thats when the Avatar picture was taken. The plates are still in the boot at the mo. .

There are 504 "Storms". 250 Mystic Blue, 250 Classic Green, you all know the story on those genuine articles, 10 Autos and 240 manual of each. Plus 4 Classic Green fakes, manual gearboxes. And..... 4 more Classic Greens in the right chassis number range that could be made to look like a Storm model. .

Wouldn't do it with the VR6 front mount. It's a design disaster waiting to happen as it is. I'd be embarrassed in my aero engineering if I had designed that mount. Designed to fatigue and break up. As some peeps know from that little sports hump in the bonnet they've collected. Filling is more likely to help it on its way. Get rid and fit an alternative such as VT one. .