RW1

Only if there are 4 wires to the 2x2 connectors. 1,2, & 3 wires only are analogue. 1992 model build only. .

Anything pre 1992 is most likely to be analogue (blink code) technology. VAG-COM is digital, so not compatible. Also, pre 1994 cars will need a 16 pin connector to a two x two black white connector converter. ..

Nice photoshop job. Who'd design it that way! Bad lines. ..

To answer selbekk's.......... Different market's, different wiring of the window controller. Same for differnet models & years. USA cars' wired differently also. ----- Slow Windows.......... There are two fuses in the circuit for the windows & the controller. Both of which I expect to be OK but worth a check. Fuse 14 (10 amps) and S52 (20amps) up above the relays on top of the fuse/rellay panel. The window controller box uses relays to up/down the windows so I don't expect them to be faulty. As both windows are slow, the next common item is the earth wire. There is no direct earth wires to the window winder motors. Earthing for the circuits is done via the controller box only. The controller uses a single earth wire which runs from the window controller box in the right side rear passenger behind the side wall trim to an earth point just behind/above the fuse/relay panel. Reverse for LHD cars. So locate the multi-earth points under the dash on the driver's side up by the fuse/relay panel. It may be that the muti-earth point centre philips screw has vibrated loose and causing a poor earth leading to reduced volts across the window winder motors. The earth wire for the controller is quite a thick wire compared to most. Earth multi-earth point will have a set of brown wires with brown connectors connected to it. Upto 8 separate wires may be connected. Make sure all are pushed home and the mounting screw is tight. The switches don't carry the motor 12 volts supply only 12volt control signals. .

Wot, those top tail lights by the grille???? .

Here goes….. From what I can see, the window lifter differences are, for post August1990 Corrado’s, a couple of wiring changes. The switches and their lighting are fine and so are the wires to them for this, there are no changes here. The window lifter controller unit is common to all Corrados but…. the wiring change on pre August 1990 is a loom rebuild, so many wires to change. The change over for the later Corrado’s seems to be at Chassis 50SK000719 ie. October 1994. So for chassis 50MK000001 to N, P, R, & to 50SK000718, a couple of wire additions are needed to get the late Corrado window logic mode operating from the door window switches. I can’t guarantee this but if someone wishes to risk it, to prove the theory on a pre Oct’94 car, here are the production wire changes. So if someone has a spare controller by the part number below (so they don't bust their original), they may like to try theory. ------------------------ Find the Window Lifter Controller (Pt No. 191 959 875) located in the rear offside of the rear off-side passenger seat at the bottom of the side trim. The controller has three coloured plugs, brown, white & black. Change 1: Locate pin 7 in the BROWN plug. It should have a grey with red stripe thin wire pushed into it. Cross link (bridge) this wire to pin 2 in the BLACK plug using the box cover pin diagrams as a guide (The pins are numbered like |12 which means plug 1 pin 2 and so on.). To confirm the wire adjacent to pin 2 in the BLACK plug, pin 4 length ways along the BLACK plug is a green with white stripe wire. Pin 2 should be a vacant position. Change 2: Locate the thin brown with white stripe wire in the BROWN plug at pin 5. Run an additional wire, same thickness, to the passenger door courtesy contact switch in the passenger door pillar (the driver’s door does not need to be done as there should be a brown with white stripe wire (two wires are joined at the connector onto the door pillar on one pin switch for the courtesy light and another brown with white stripe wire on the other driver’s door pin switch contact. ie. 3 brown with white stripe wires.)). It is important that the new wire is on a separate circuit from the Window Lifter Controller so a dual separate contact type switch needs to be at the passenger door if not fitted (part can be ordered at VW dealers). Connect the new wire from the controller BROWN plug pin 5 to the separate contact so that when the switch is open circuit (passenger door shut) The best way to run this wire will be down the inside sill area by the driver’s seat under the carpet, across the underside of the dash inside the trim. Then into the passenger door pillar and finally hook it up to the “SPARE” door courtesy light pin switch connection. As already said….. This is unproven practically so if someone has a spare controller by the part number above, they may like to try the theory. Perhaps first by confirming ALL the wire colours in ALL the three plugs to the controller back here for both a pre & post October 1994 chassis cars, ie. before/after 50SK000718. UK cars notoriously have undocumented extra wires added in production for the UK market! .

Call again :wink: .

Battery earth off for 2 - 3 mins should do it. Wouldn't expect it to be that rough! (What's rough? If you know what I mean) ECU reset & BS - you never know cos it wasn't driven right away after ignition on???. Costs nowt to do but time and a little petrol. .

"I ran the test on Group 001 and the only blocks I remember seeing were The Idle speed - 680 RPM OK The coolant temp - 85 C Acceptable (minmum) to do but better to be above this in future. And the third block I think was around 0.79 and dont recall it changing, not sure if that was the o2 activity?? Yes O2. 0.79 is low. Lambda should be 0.95 to 1.05 range. Also the engine was idling right through the test. 680rpm above confirms it. But did you blip the throttle to 3,000 rpm for 2 seconds at the start and then idle for 2 mins. Next time as you have a faulty with the Lambda probe. Fourth field is ignition timing. Somewhere in the region of -3.0 to -5.0 at idle and varies on a "good" engine. Don't be bother by this now as the lambda is the most likely source of the 00537 & lumpy running. ----------- Recheck in 08 Measuring Blocks group 001 field 3, the O2 should be oscillating about every 0.5 seconds or 1 seconds in the range 0.95 to 1.05. ie. 0.99...1.01...0.98...0.97....1.02...0.99....0.97 If the reading is still stuck at 0.79 and not moving, the probe is u/s or a wire is broken as the most likely causes. Check for damaged wire at the probe, on the cat right hand side upper quadrant. Follow the wires forward to the connector just as they emerge in the engine bay on the offside rear engine mount. Check connector connected and check wires are OK. Nothing wrong? New probe. .

If it's like a little round cutter type key, then it disables the alarm probably. Or in the case of Cat1, diables the siren when the car battery supply is lost. .

When I checked my notes on this alarm last night, it did say leave the battery disconnected for 12 hours. It may be that the alarm memory hasn't been lost when you've done the previous disconnects???? Long time, I know. :( Scorpion has gone bust a while back but I think Gavin (H100VW) has an engineer's contact?? For setting up, assuming that the battery earth is specifically disconnected for this reason, start the engine and immediately drive the car normally for ten minutes with a few mid throttle & full throttle accelerations where the throttle is held steady during the acceleration for at least 3 seconds (so choose the right gear and start at 1500rpm). The engine must alraeady be warm with the oil temp above 85'C. Do not let it stand idling and nothing more during this first 10 minutes but idling as part of the driving in the first ten minutes from ignition switch ON is OK, eg at traffic lights etc.. After an hour, do Basic Settings on Group 001 with a registered copy of VAG-COM, (unregistered won't work - shareware limitation). Use Group 001 in Basic Setting, I'm assuming your engine ECU part number ends with the suffix "AG". (If it ends "B" or "BF" or "CC" then choose group 000, "CP" is group 001). Bottom half of this thread..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= .

Try putting a hot towel in a stout plastic bag round it (heavy duty shopping bag?) and see if it will expand relative to the tank threads. Leave it there for about 5mins for the heat to absorb into the plastic. Then see if it will give. .

If the relay is clicking and the fuse is OK, then out of the 1st yellow plug (passenger side) on the bottom row of connectors on the back of the fuse/relay plate there is a brown with black stripe wire, same size as the indicator wire. This wire goes to earth when the relay is held over by the horn pad as it does at the horn connections at the bumper. The supply is on the same plug (1st yellow). From fuse 13 (10 amps). Wire is black with yellow stripe, same size again. This will be at 12 volts with the ignition ON. Same colour of wire at the bumper should go to 12 volts with the ignition on. .

The alarm set up process:- Disconnect battery. Turn ignition on. Reconnect battery. Press activate button for 10 seconds. That's how I've always understood the Scorpion 5000 alarm "re-learn" to be to the fob. I'm sure I have seen that text before and it's a bit of wind-up but does the job cos the basics to do the above are built into it. But if the "fun & dance" has worked, who cares. Next time, remember to charge the audiance for the "show" :) Old style alarm from the late 80's/early 90's. Fuses are there to stop a screw driver blowing the alarm electronics by shorting the indicator driving circuit. Most now have circuit protection to combat this now from mid 90's. Removing fuses, removes all doubt about a little tike having a go. .

At cold it's 6 - 6.5 bar on the cylinder head circuit when revving a bit. Idle is lower at 4 - 5 bar when cold. Warm at 95'C 4 bar revving, 2 bar at idle. .

At what oil temp and which piont are you taking it from. If it's on the oil filter head, which pressure switch position? .

No. You have to fit either banjo coupling or tee it with the pressure switch or use a dual sender directly screwed in the cylinder head switch position (ie. includes the switch, usually the cylinder head logic 0.3bar ). There are two oil switches, one works in reverse logic for loss of pressure on the main bearings. Looking at the gauge, you need a 5 bar sender to match the gauge. If you use the 10bar version it will scale wrong. The gauge will saturate at 5 bar for the first 5 minutes as the oil pressure will be 6 - 6.5bar with cold oil. .

It may be as simple as an air leak after the airflow/fuelling meter head. Check all the air pipes and breathers connected between the meter head and the throttle body for loose joints or splits, even the small side jointed rubber hoses. Cjeck the throttle body ain't leaking where bolts onto the inlet manifold. If air is getting in, it lessen the fuel delivery due the the air flow plate not rising as much as it should and with the air getting in else where, a weaker mixture results which can lead to pinking. 9A uses 95RON by auto adjustments. 98RON is not necessary. .

Yep, they're closed on later cars. Listed under the front rad grille page!! Early bumper has 535 853 671E where as post mid 1991 onwards have 671J . One piece item across the width in both cases. .

There is a bumper "width" to match the revised front wings. Slightly wider And minor styling detail changes associated with the revised wings. The early bumper is 1988 - 1990 made cars. Chassis 50KK****** - 50MK******. The later bumper is 1991 - 1995 made cars. Chassis 50NK****** - 50SK******. .

Geeee Chris. Sorree to see the pics. Pride is always repairable. Looks bad but a body shop can work wonders on that. Not unknown for the Corrado to slip anchor occassionally with the handbrake ON on a slope. Usually to do with hot brakes cooling down and then the pads become slack. Always turn the steering wheel a fair way (towards the curb) and if safe (from traffic), put in 1st gear when on a slope. .

Assuming the relay is OK as checked, the new storks switch assembly (& old) are OK, there’s only two fault conditions that can exist to generate this condition of hazards but no indicators. The hazards working confirm the rest of the circuit is OK. 1) Fuse 17 (10 amps) has blown or is loose. 2) The black / blue stripe wire (fairly thick diameter) has been damaged by either being cut or pulled out of socket. The wire runs in the steering column loom. It is connected from the turn signals switch connections to the third red plug (next to the white plug) on the bottom row from the driver’s door side on the back of fuse/relay panel. Check the fuse box end and inspect the length under the dash to see if the alarm fitter damaged it or snipped it by mistake. .

PM'd. .

Thanks :) Not Bentley, they are hand crafted ! .

Come back if not this but you are down to wires and/or any mods you've done in these two circuits. :wink: .