RW1

No such beast to my knowledge was marketed by VAG-UK. Can't speak for a one off dealership doing some marketing trick as one dealer did with Sciroccos. It's just someone trying to sell a fully spec'd VR6. Can't see anything from the photos that changes that, it all looks like a VR6 with leathers. Perhaps it should be called a Corolf or Golorado :) LOL. .

Mr Wales. Of course they are. :) I'm driving a 15 year old J plater daily one just passing 140k miles and I cannot grumble. A couple of times in 14 years it has hiccuped. Of the other 3 I previosly had, none were unreliable. The fuel economy is good. I get 38mpg knocking about and 45 mpg (as much as 50mpg) on the Mway. Parts are specifically Scirocco in some cases but the routine stuff (servicing/brakes/clutch) is based on Goof Mk1 & 2 parts so plenty of stuff still around. More versitile than the Corrado for daily life but that's not knocking the C in anyway. They are not quite the same car despite being both from Karmann. Good low milers are still knocking about (40k to 70k). If it drives OK then it's OK, just like a C. They have their weakenesses, common faults are now well known and can be easily sorted. Would I buy another? Yes. I have one "very new" 20K miler in store when the current one wears out. Avoid a Mk1 or pre 1985 Mk2. Spares specifically made to the Scirocco design are getting difficult and VW don't stock them any more. Doesn't mean the cars are no good, they still are sound but the hassle of spares for a daily driver needs considering. .

Comparable Scirocco to GT2s was the Scala Injections 1989 - 1990 (there are a fair few J & K platers knocking about but all from the Sept/Dec 1990 production batch). Main difference is the engine. Injection v Carb. Suspension the same, interiors the same, options the same (mainly C/locking & Sunroof if they could be afforded). GT2 has steel wheels in original form, Scala had alloys. GTX is a higher spec'd Scirocco (1984B to 1987E) with Sunroof, central locking, alloy wheels, tinted glass, voltmeter and some other minor trim additions as standard such as boot liners on the rear inner wheel arches. The Scala injection that followed the GTX after 1988F was a cut down more basic car to keep the injection selling in the UK as prices were getting close to the Corrado terrotary with a GTX, initially with colour coded interior for one year (1988), then 1989G onwards the last interior style was the same as the GT2. Last two years of production 1991 - 1992 were all GT2 Carb cars for the UK market. Very last ones, about 300 or 400 were retrofitted with C/locking as standard. Performance wise the Scala Injection and GTX are the same car. The GT2 is a tad slower but runs out of puff above 4,500 rpm unless the camshaft is changed, the carb substituted for the weber equivalent and a through flow exhasut is fitted. Then the performance is on a par with the GTX. .

Kelly, Fault codes: 00561 – Mixture adaption limits exceeded. 00553 – MAF defective or wiring short. 00518 – Throttle Position Sensor defective or wiring short. 00611 – Ignition Coil Pack Output 3 Short. The common point to all these faults is one of three things. But first check the fuses on the lower edge of the fuse / relay panel. An intermittent ignition switch in the steering column breaking power to the ECU. Or A troublesome Fuel Pump relay (cover number 167). Or A troublesome ECU relay (cover number 109). Do not change out the Coil pack, MAF, TPS. They are red herrings to the cause. From the faults, the order to test is the ignition switch 12 volts contacts. Next the fuel pump relay “167” and finally the ECU relay “109”. The blocked immobiliser is sorted by spraying a little WD40 on the brown 3 pin connector (shiny black cable) that plugs into the immobiliser box located inside the dash behind the headlight switch. The other box is the spoiler control. 00513 – Engine speed sender but it also appears if the ECU is read with the ignition switched on but the engine is not running. Ignore. .

Fault codes: 00561 – Mixture adaption limits exceeded. 00553 – MAF defective or wiring short. 00518 – Throttle Position Sensor defective or wiring short. 00611 – Ignition Coil Pack Output 3 Short. The common point to all these faults is one of three things. But first check the fuses on the lower edge of the fuse / relay panel. An intermittent ignition switch in the steering column breaking power to the ECU. Or A troublesome Fuel Pump relay (cover number 167). Or A troublesome ECU relay (cover number 109). Do not change out the Coil pack, MAF, TPS. They are red herrings to the cause. From the faults, the order to test is the ignition switch 12 volts contacts. Next the fuel pump relay “167” and finally the ECU relay “109”. The blocked immobiliser is sorted by spraying a little WD40 on the brown 3 pin connector (shiny black cable) that plugs into the immobiliser box located inside the dash behind the headlight switch. The other box is the spoiler control. 00513 – Engine speed sender but it also appears if the ECU is read with the ignition switched on but the engine is not running. Ignore. .

Took a look at this. There’s no real common theme on the listed problems. The “x” relief relay doesn’t power them all. Neither are the earth sides commonly linked to one point. 15 Ignition ………. X-relay …………. Earth………… Circuit ……………………………..Y………………….Stud39……….. ABS ……………………………..Y…………………Fuse Box………. Front Wipers ……………………………..Y………………….Stud43………… Heater Blower …………Y……………………..………………Fuse Box………. Spoiler Down …………Y……………………..………………Fuse Box………. Rev Counter Other X relay circuits – Heated Rear Window, Rear Wiper & Sunroof. As the Corrado engine is running normally??, then the rev counter itself is the problem. Not unknown to happen with this particular age of Corrado. I assume the petrol tank & water temp gauges are OK when the rev counter has stopped working. Spoiler down action stuck. Is it stiffer to wind down than up on the manual dog bone handle in the rear hatch? If so, look at the mechanical mechanism itself. Heater blower. Take a look at two things. The bottom motor bearing in the fan unit and also the fan switch on the dash if the Corrado is a face lift version with three round controls. The fan switch contacts sometimes become intermittent. A little gentle bending of the finger contact is needed. ABS can be checked out with VAG-COM on this car and is the quickest way of determining what is upsetting the ABS ECU from the logged fault codes. The wiper problem isn’t obvious. .

None short term but it will form a sludge in the cooling system if G12+ was added to the blue/green coloured coolant. It's cheap enough to say drain it all out and add G12. Not read the Comma container recently but it must have an anti-corrosion characteristic to it to protect the engine fully against freezing & corrosion. Blue/green suggests it's possibly G11 (unless you know the car's history) which is at least 3 to 4 years old minimum now. G11 does wear out as it works against corrosion so best to refresh regularly. VW don't specify a life as far as I know. I change it out every 2 years. 3 to 4 years is probably sensible. 16v heads/gaskets are the most prone to corrosion for some reason. .

Yeah, went there but don't have the "rar" extraction software to support opening the relevant brochures at the mo. Still pushing coal in the back of my PC to keep it going. Thanks all the same C-C. .

Took a look around. The 9A engine is 95RON, in fact it can run on low a grade as 91RON with power reduced without any mechanical adjustments needed. Only one engine ECU, technically - 8A0 907 404CC so no variations to use alternative petrol/engine maps. I say technically, cos right at the end of production, the 16v like other late Corrados got the ignition key immobiliser which needed circuitry in the ECU to work so the ECU is re-part numbered 8A0 907 404L. These must be very rare boxes as the change was October 1994 and not many 16valvers were made after that. The "CC" version of the ECU is also on the 9A engine in 1991 - 1993 Passats and that is also 95RON. The 1994 Corrado owners Instruction Manual also states 95RON. All references are to UNLEADED, cat or non cat. Can't find any references to 97RON. Would be interested, can you scan the relevant page of your brochure? .

Before you go off and loose more dosh. I'm assuming this is noticeable at idle with the bonnet up? Take a length of flexible tubing (about 2 - 3 cm diameter) and listen around the engine bay until you can locate it more precisely. Seems that you've got too much "other" noise to make it easy to find. (No loose clothing while doing this, moving belts and all that :) ). I have doubts about it being the gearbox. More like something in that area just rattling on something else. The gearboxes aren't that bad at 125k .

Try this Search "Heater + Resistor" .

Early 1.8ltr "KR" 16v engine runs 98RON Super Unleaded unless timing is changed (naff performance if timing is set for unleaded unless something like K-Star is fitted). Later 2.0ltr "9A" runs on 95RON Unleaded. .

I'd take a look at the alternator's voltage regulator brushes (with battery disconnected first!). They should be more than 5mm protruding the surrounding shoulders. And secondly, possibly the regulator has a fault when cold. .

Yes. Spoiler modules don't change between engine models but do depending on age of car & country they were delivered to. Early VR6 in UK went up at 45mph, later it's 56mph. If that's all you want to do, simply change the module from the relevant car. .

What's happened to the wire connected to the little sensor on the forward corner off-side of the rocker cover next the cam belt cover? Has it come loose? .

Flip the yellow square over the body lip towards the exhaust and further towards the back of the car so that the dimple in the photo is central to the yellow square. I use a bit of 1.5 ins by 1 ins by 2 inches long. The area isn't exactly mirror flat but the block sits reasonably. .

Ahh, to do that I use the hydaulic jack at the jacking point on the sill just behind the body lip with a soft wood block (there's a flat small area 5cm x 5cm and then put the axle stand where shown. It's not ideal there but it keeps the jack out of the way of putting the axle stand as shown onto the plate. Point is anywhere on the underbody is covered in the rubbery seal (like a skin) and the engine subframe at the front of the car is not ideal for lifting as you are jacking the car through its subframe bushes onto the body. .

There's not much difference in areas to access. It's just a simpler ECU with less sensors so less fault codes. Set up is simpler so less measuring blocks and so on. .

The oil temp sender is the one near the engine block on the driver's side of the top of the filter housing, not the two sitting side by side further forward away from the engine block. The wire colour is green / black stripe to fuse / relay panel, passes through the only break at the engine connector back nearside of the engine. Then black / white stripe from relay panel to instrument cluster. The oil temp sender on the VR6 is 0 – 150’C. At 20’C it measures 750 to 800 ohms to ground. At 95’C it measures 80 to 85 ohms. Measurements are the single connection relative to earth in isolation. Although the measurements can be done with the sender disconnected from the single green/black stripe wire on the car, if the sender is removed (oil!) it is fitted with a torque setting of 10Nm (7 lb ft). .

The problem that arises with the yellow circled area is that the under body is covered in a rubbery thick layer of sealing compund with sprayed paint on top of that. It will get damaged by lifting it there due to the weight of the car. If stressed, the rubbery seal just tears and water gets in behind and the unprotected metal rusts immediately. That's why the axle stand is where it is on the metal plate but still under the body. The other end of this plate has air above it (forward end) so the load transfers backwards to the body and causes a turning moment in the plate to transfer the load, ie. distorts the plate upwards. In practice the plate is thick enough but it's better to directly transfer the load into the body. .

And.... correct PC link interface, optical isolation ones don't work with this engines's ECU. VAG-COM v409.0 or later must be used.

It's behind the plastic cover on the forward side of the engine just above the rad fan motor in a housing with two other similar shapes sensors. If in the right position, it's the middle one of the three positions and is blue plastic with a 2 pin connection. It senses coolant temp for the engine ECU only. When cold at 10'C about 3,300 to 4,000 ohms When hot at 90'C about 200 to 275 Ohms. .

No probs. :thumbleft: Go enjoy the motor! .

Weldingings another solution OK but localised heat could do damage to the cat monolythe block inside. As well as underbody if not protected by sheilding. It's not illustrated on any cat I looked at. Parts man would just find a bolt for the techie to fit and it would rust again. .

Now happy & flupp, hic :) here goes, the how to .......... .