RW1

I take it this a 1.6/1.8ltr Scirocco/Golf carb engine? The answer is no-ish. It removes "pumped" air from the petrol supply going into the carb float chamber to aid smooth carburation and aids the float shut off needle to be more controllable. Part of improved emissions controls introduced with the Pierberg carbs. It also acts as the router for pumped fuel to return to the tank when the carb doesn't need fuel such as in the overrun. In other words, all three pipes are used. If no return, the weber has to cope with increased fuel pressures went demand is shut off and this could lead to overfuelling and flooding while the engine is in the overrun or low throttle openings. Usually silts up after about 100,000 miles causing engine stop after a few miles. Give it a minute and the engine goes again for another stretch and so on.

OK, the meter is running :) £30 £60 £90 .

Corradowales, going to CCGB nat-day or Tatton?

OK, the Corrado model range for all countries has the option of 5 braking systems broken down into 3 groups. 1) Non ABS & Non ABS/EDL is a vacuum servo assisted whether LHD or RHD. 2a) ABS Only TEVES 02 hydraulically assisted braking system for LHD. 2b) ABS & EDL TEVES 02 hydraulically assisted braking system for LHD. 3a) ABS Only TEVES 04 vacuum servo assisted braking system for RHD. 3b) ABS & EDL TEVES 04 vacuum servo assisted braking system for RHD. (EDL = traction control) 1, 2a & 2b are covered in the yellow USA Bentley manual. 3a & 3b are not. And the instructions in the Bentley manual for 2a & 2b do not apply to the UK RHD Teves 04 braking system. Now the pipe! Arso, youz have a right hooker power plant in a left hooker! Well why didn’t you say :wink: The VR6 vacuum pipe isn’t fitted to the LHD car in any data I hold (Would like to know this is fact from a LHD VR6 owner in original form). I suspect a blank at the manifold but I can’t find that either as a part. Your engine Dutch being a RHD version of the VR6, the pipe is there and has been blanked off as you wrote. It could have been blanked at the inlet manifold but it was probably someone being lazy to do it at the point at the end of the pipe that you can see. So, it isn’t meant to go anywhere cos you don’t have a Teves 04 brake system fitted. The original donor car did, ie. it was RHD. Does that ring a bell when you source the engine? Why the brake differences. Most likely space. Hydraulic servo & ABS & EDL all on the left hand rear bulkhead all fits in. This chosen Corrado brake system would be Teves 02 as most production was LHD. This doesn’t fit behind the engine for a RHD Corrado, so change it and split the system. Hey presto, the Teves 04. Put ABS or ABS & EDL on the left side and slot/squeeze the servo assistance in the behind the engine on the right hand side, servo because the hydraulic assistance unit is too big to go in behind the VR6. The dimension limitations for any Corado model being governed by the VR6 power plant engine bay occupation. I suspect Karman got hung up on the Scirocco RHD complaint of the sssiiinnnkkkiiiinnnggg pedal syndrome. So wanted to avoid a crank and rod conversion system. Kev, It's our ABS / ABS & EDL system that's bizarre...... .

Combination of front engine mount past it's best and the clutch not biting smoothly. Front mount will cure it short term but the clutch be far away from the end of it's life I suspect or may have oil on the friction plates due to a seal leak in the bell housing.

I have a set........... in the parts loft in a most inaccessible area - The Heritage Parts Section. Bought them in 1997. A) Fitted for 4 months and then OFF ever since. B) they don't solve the rain dripping in unless the window pane is up above the bottom lip of the plastic. C) they hardly cut the wind noise down unlike my Scirocco ones do. D) they damage the outer rubber window seal in the forward corner, even with a cut rubber hose protector and "cut-out" adjustment. Costly at £65 to replace the damaged seal. Seal rubber gets torn by upward / downward movement. E) the window glass gets scratched. F) I seem to remember the price for the pair was £65 - £75. So, much as I like the one on my daily Scirocco driver's side and it does work and I have stopped using the Scirocco's sunroof, 1) it a question of taste but 2) thez doesnee work on the Corrado and costs a dam lot for the priviledge. Also, Clim-Air who marketed them in this country may not stock them any longer. Demand was low in the late 1990's. My View? Don't waste your money. :nono: .

Need to quantify in value. Hmmm... would like t see that identified/eliminated as this whole problem is more likely to be an air leak. NAture of this code is that it is "long term" as some calcs go on so I would n't expect it to reappear straight away. May be just worth asking the garage to do a fuel pressure check and see if it falls within spec.

Not really enough info as this fault appears cos of several conditions. Is the fault code the only one? Has anything been done to the car in the last six months such as fitting an airfilter? eg. K&N (oil) type filter What is the engine code? The most likely areas that need to be looked at if the car hasn't been "disturbed" are fuel pressure and therefore the fuel pressure regulator. or An air leak somewhere. The vacuum pipe connections are prone to deteriorating so check pipe ends for cracking (most likely) and examine vacuum pipe lengths for splits (less likely). Check the intake ducting after the MAF for splits/seating. Check secondary air feed piping for splits/seating. Check the two lambda probes are working. Do this by looking at the active value fields (need the engine code to define). Check they are both oscillating in value and not rock solid. Check crank case ventilation is properly connected so there are no leaks. After this it will get very complicated to with diagnostic instructions. Vacuum pipes are the most likely culprit as there was a problem with them right from leaving the factory.

“isthisthebrakeservo.JPG” Nope, the arrow is pointing to the EDL valve block (traction control) and the black box is the electronic controls PCB cover. "servo_b20_140_250.jpg" Not fitted in electric or vacuum form. LHD with ABS & EDL (Traction Control) is very different. Teves 02 braking system. ---------- The foot pedal assistance on a LHD VR6 is hydraulic. When I referred to the servo, it’s in the master cylinder body and the item that should be visible is the metal globe about the size of a large orange is the pressure vessel for assisting the system. I can’t see the globe in the photos, probably cos it’s lower down the bulkhead. There is no servo vacuum drum unit in this installation on the VR6 Teves 02 brake system with ABS & EDL.. The rubber hose in question I have doubt connects to the brake system. A) the hose is the wrong type for use on brake systems, B) no vacuum is needed as the brakes are hydraulic assisted. I wonder if it is a left over of Schrick manifold installation now removed.. Do you know the history of the VR6? Is the rubber hose just hanging there cos that’s where it can be trapped and was in fact was connected elsewhere. Where will it stretch to easily in the engine bay?

Sounds lik a 1991 - 1993 era car. Basically VW got it wrong with the first water based paints they started using back then, particularly red. The only way to cure it for sure is to re-spray the car. They initially did that under warrenty but the paint warrenty is now expired for the era where the cars afflicted. No matter how deep you go with the T-cut, the UV sunlight and airborne contaminants have shot the colour coat. The result you are getting is where it will go despite waxes, etc. The result you will get is no top colour coat of pain and the underlying white base paint will show through.

Will not show on VAG-COM on this. Brake servo is in the back corner under the brake fluid reservoir.

Thats a bit of a wind up. Quite a few of those parts aren't the same in some places, minute changes that aquick glance misses. I can't believe the cadmium plated bits are the same. Not sold on that nor the Armorall as I use it a lot for cleaning the engine bay and it doesn't seal in the newness!

Given they have contracts in the future if I understand Eric's jottings correctly, I suspect the factory car production lines will be mothballed if the pause is short term. The factory also produces other things such as stampings for press machines and CAD work so that could possibly balance the running costs of keeping the factory.

Nowt wrong with that plug and it's pins. The gold pins are for engine and sensor signals where contact is vital to pass the small currents and volts. Spray lightly with WD40 if you are still concerned.

Got an alarm fitted? It may be isolating the fuel pump circuit. What's the set-up following a battery disconnect? Some do need to be sequenced and depends on the alarm manufacturer.

Conlogs if its the fob with one centre rubber button & 4 contacts on the back and two philps screws to get inside, it's usually a stack of 4 small hearing aid batteries in a clear pastic binder, CA24 GP4/393 is the part number. Any car audio/alarm shop or some independant motor factors will stock them. 6 volt battery!!!

You need to take out the driver's side underdash and check the hot/cold lever is working the lever on the airbox behind the centre dash area. Three lever controls go from the dash to the air controls inside the bottom area of the centre dash. Sounds like a cable end has come off.

I'd agree with the fact it should be a wheel bearing as first port of call. I assume the noise is in the front. It may be a little too early for cornering to affect it yet which is why it doesn't show that way. Jack up each side of the car and leave the wheel on. Just hand spin it and see if one wheel is turning slightly ruffer than the other. You may have to take the brake pads off and put the wheel temporaryily back on to get rid of the pad noise. Don't forget to put the brake pads back in before you drive off!!!

Must go and learn to mind read at 150 miles range!! "New slave cyliner worked". Vital clue to help you missing mate. Glad you got sorted.

I think this is about as good as it gets for you. .

Fit a piece of clear tubing to the clutch salve cylinder bleed nipple (about 12 to 18 inches long) and hold it vertical in the engine bay. Open the bleed nipple and get someone to push the clutch pedal to somewhere near the bottom of the travel. Before releasing the clutch pedal, close the bleed nipple. Do this sequence twice to build up the fluid in tube. Does brake fuid come up in the tube? Amount is not too critcal. Yes, the clutch master cylinder is OK and the clutch itself is suspect. If no, the the master cylinder is not working. If air comes out initially, then this was stopping the clutch hyraulic circuit operating properly and now you've released the air, it should work.

Cos the electronic crash de-accleration sensor is not there, it's inert, but it's still explosive and therefore care must be taken with it just the same while fitting it. Once fitted, the same rules of sitting too close still apply if it goes off accidently. Spline is the same so it should go on. Having the same thought for the daily driver Scirocco at th mo with some leather ones appearing on Ebay.

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 5&lighter= :wink: WD40 :wink: .

Simple, pin 33 is ECU's earth and it isn't connected to anything hence why there is no circuit to the CPS pin 3. But you get volts on CPS pin 1 & 3 cos the earth on pin 3 of CPS is connected to earth. Looks like this....... rough diagram, ignore the full stops. Connections represented by dash lines & vertial bars. 4 wire meet in centre of diagram. The leg from centre to ECU pin 33 is most likely broken causing open circuit from CPS pin 3 to ECU pin 33. You see voltage cos its across pins 1 & 3 and earth on CPS pin 3 IS connected to earth. ECU pin 33 ]--------| .............................| .............................| CPS pin 3 ]----------|----------[ Brown wire earth to chassis .............................| .............................| Air Temp pin 2]---- | .

Lee, The wires you describe are all coming from the ECU relay on the fuse/relay panel and therefore from the 12 volts supply (battery) which is unprotected by a fuse, so a short has most likely has burnt out the ECU relay marked “109” if it is a normal VR 6 car set of relays or the loom wire has fused open circuit somewhere. This red with blue stripe powers a lot including the ECU. I don’t think it has blown up the ECU; it’s just not got power, nor have the injectors, ISV, Charcoal solenoid or lambda probe heating. This would explain all the hesitation as the wire was damaged and shorted to earth until something gave, ie the ECU relay power contacts or the wiring. Check the continuity with the relay out from it’s socket pin 87 to ECU pin 23 and an injector pin 1 all same wire colour of red with blue stripe. If this lines out, then check the contacts by visual inspection and closing mechanically the relay contacts with the plastic cover off. Close the relay by hand and pins 30 & 87 should make circuit.