RW1

Hi, Blue with White stripe is the speed signal used on VW radios to control volume. Also, has Spoiler Controller hanging on it. Grey with Blue stripe is instruments etc. lighting 12 volt supply. Switched power is not shown as available on 1990 Corrado which I don't believe. Try looking for a Brown with Red stripe. Works by putting ignition key in ignition lock, turn on and turn off but leave the key. Power should still be there. Pull key out and power should switch off. Permenant power is on Red, or Red with White stripe depending on car's original wiring loom standard. All VWs, the Brown is earth wire but do not think Brown with coloured stripe is though! The only Blue with Red stripe for the radio installation is to do with an option for "active" speakers or ABS wires between pump unit and controller. Or Red with Blue stripe appears in cars with headlight height control. There's no black wire connected in either case. The Black wire - what sort of fuse, cartridge class type, same as fuse panel, other. Wouldn't have expected an original as supplied fuse in the middle of the dash hanging loose. Does the Red & Blue / Black wires run back inside a loom or are they tacked on? Cannot find any such wires on either the 1989 or 1990 C's.

You are shade too far away, otherwise............ East of Stockport.

OK, disconnect the battery again and this time after reconnecting it and from ignition on, just drive it around for 10 minutes. No hard accelerations, no breaking the sound barrier stuff, just at least once during the 10 minutes put into 3rd or 4th gear and hold the throttle around midway steady for 3 to 4 seconds (constant acceleration). This will hopefully put the ECU into a "milder" set-up. Still will need to do Basic Settings as per other thread etc. sometime but this drive set-up should hopefully remove the bad stalling. If it doesn't, then take a look at the ISV as said and clean the shutter area with carb cleaner, good soak and blast. The discussion thread yesterday above is all you'll get, there ain't anything else. Look at the picture file in the thread and make sure you and whoever select the right group number for uyour ECU part number suffix. Bottom line. I don't think your original problem is the set-up but the above should temporarily put it back to somewhere where problems due to Basic Settings not being done are minimised.

Excellent. :) Off topic, how have got on with the ICE wiring?

Wasn't on the CCGB stand. Came in the hack Scirocco for the weekend. Give things a try on yours and see if it comes clean. Could do with sorting the KB some how. Can you do anything as a Mod?

Hi Kev, 3,000 rpm. It's an arbitrary value. VW actually state "raise the engine speed". The procedure states 2,500 rpm. This comes about because people translate things differently in practice so I’ve compensated to ensure they wait, do, etc., sufficiently to trigger the conditions required. Not a precise engineering need on this one as long as the revs are raised held and released. You must have an engineering job! Only engineers are precise. :wink: Likewise when disconnecting the ECU. The ECU looses it’s settings with 2 or 3 seconds but the 2 minutes is specified in case there is any “stored” charge is drained that may still power the ECU. Repeated steps. Not sure which??? If the ECU reset & drive, they don’t have to all be done. The more samples in the first 10 minutes, the merrier. Basically as long as the car is driven in the first 10 minutes and not left just to idle, the lambda probe should get to somewhere near it’s correct settings before the “quick” learning mode shuts off. If in Basic Settings, there are two pieces of text suppose to be in two columns. The left column is VAG 1551 dealer’s box keystrokes etc., the right hand side is the VAG-COM equivalent. When I looked at the knowledge base a while back, all the layout format I seem to think had been carried across, but not so today. Joe M in copying it has lost the layout of the original document. This is how it should look. I can’t alter the file up in Knowledge Base but having seen it today, it does need correcting for those peeps less familiar with VAG diagnostic procedures. Ross-Tech, yep it's there, tucked away in the Uwe’s Yahoo support group files section, not on the VAG-COM site itself, follow the link in the support/forum section to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VAG-COM/. Quick wash through - there ain’t any more I could add, hopefully if the KB layout miss-mash of Basic Settings section is rectified as per the file (to preserve the layout) it will help to make it clearer, if not….. what’s puzzling you and I will expand. Perhaps being a VAG-COM v0.5 veteran, I’m too familiar with the product. What I have done is collate the diagnostics into a procedure derived from various points in the manuals, about 16 volumes for the european Corrado. And If I remember rightly, a VW bulletin was also involved in the Basic Settings procedure. VW diagnostics hinges around having the Corrado workshop manuals to hand and as Uwe Ross states, VAG-COM another wrench in your toolbox. The manuals aren’t written specifically to have sections on diagnostics, more you pick up the required tool and if some cases it may be VAG-COM. The B.S. information is in the USA Bentley Manual for instance but the text is integrated into doing a repair/adjustment. It’s why the measuring blocks have so many repeats of same fields in various groups. A group of four fields corresponds to a repair task in the manual. This so the mechanic is not flitting around the diagnostics trying to find a parameter to read while carrying out a task. CO level, well, if you have something like the Gunsons CO tester which I don’t or any other either you have to assume that all is OK. MoT test emission data if requested when picking up the C will give some confidence to that. Perhaps sometime at a show we both happen to be at, we can have a chat. Did find your C at GTinters but no bodies! Chris

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Del, Where do I send the invoice to m8 for yesterday's work? :-)

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 9&start=60 “The TPS is harmonised in Basic Settings. Without this sequence the ECU guesses where the throttle is and so at small throttle settings and certain low rpm (Less than 1500 rpm). That guessing results symptoms such as stalling on the overrun, roughish engine behaviour (like a slight misfire), the engine slowing slightly without movement of the throttle at small throttle openings, hiccup on pick-up from idle, dullness in the throttle response from shut until opened up a fair way resulting in the car leaping forward as things wake-up, ie. the ECU doesn't see throttle movement, then suddenly does. Not every Corrado behaves the same as tolerance of components masks some of the symptoms. The errors in higher revs are less pronounced due to the driving not being, how should I say "delicate". “ The procedure is the second half of the Knowledge Base “ECU reset procedure”. The first part, ECU battery disconnect & drive does not need to be done every time. Basic Setting should be done at every 20,000 miles service. B.S. can be done at any time providing the condition of the engine is fully warmed up and there are no stored engine faults. Basic Settings facility will only work when VAG-COM is fully registered. “It's a VR quirk and one I've learned to 'drive around'.... I'll get to the bottom of it one day, LOL! “ I would tend to say it’s not a quirk. I see so many times the “reset” procedure being broadcast here in the recent past as “disconnect the battery and then drive”, no mention of doing Basic Settings follows in the same text. Do half the job, get half a Corrado VR6 engine. That’s why they end up driving that way. The WHOLE procedure in Knowledge Base must be followed. The second bit ain’t exciting, nothing moves, nothing clicks or clunks but at the end of it, the engine ECU knows where the throttle (ie TPS) is at, at all positions. Of course if the throttle damper pot or other mechanical settings have been fiddled with around the throttle to try and “fix” the problems such as stalling, these will have to be returned to the correct positions.

Yep, retro can be done, direct substitute. Easy to pick one up at a scappy or trader at a show.

Yep, all the time and a perspex wind deflector that used to be available for the C does not improve matters one bit. Dam hurts as well sometimes when one comes in. The airflow round the C as far as the B pillar hugs the car tightly before it starts to lift away. So I think the open window acts like relief to the airflow, resulting immediate inflow. Thats also why flys and stone chips are more pronounced on the C bonnet and windscreen as well.

Besides a binding brake, front or back....... if the tyres are not direction types, swap the fronts over and see if it corrects. Even some non-directionals have a bias which applifies if both tyres are biased in the same direction when fitted. Was the alignment done as all points, ie. with the rear? What are the rear wheel bearings like? Are correctly they tightened or have slackened and need adjustment? Put the car in gear, handbrake off and rock each rear tyre at the top with your foot. There should a be a faint clunk-clunk. If there is movement, this could explain the drifting side to side at higher speeds. Also if the bearings are not correctly tightened up, the rear can go out of alignment with the front axle leading to road camber steering it. The bearings only need a fair amount of play to do this, ie. you can hear and feel a movement in the bearing relative to the car when you rock the tyre with your foot.

Here are the blues listed for 88 to 91. helios blue, strato blue, blue pearl, aqua blue, inka blue, midnight blue, limoge blue. Obviously one or two are darker blues. Use joebloggsvr69 link to see if any match your memory.

Nothing like that in the brochure but on 1986/87 Scirocco's Tornado red wasn't in the brochure yet there are quite a few and they aren't old stock previous year cars. Maybe someone resprayed it, it has been known on a reletievely new car. The brochure colours are all dark colours. But the fische lists other blues for the European market.

Not a UK brochure colour for 1988 to 1991 but that does not rule out VAG doing a batch or it being an import.

Good... Did mine back in mid 1998 and havn't been back to since..... and not a failure to start since. :-)

OK, that is slightly low for the oil grade and would give you tappet noise on the "over-hot" / rad fan running in standing traffic. But I think there are two problems as Kev is thinking. Bearings & a slightly worn engine rings/bore (given the 140K). The oil pressure is the more the crank area to investigate. Whoever advised you to do only the top end on a 140k engine needs their bumps feeling. At this mileage, the bottom should have been sorted at the same time. As above, the bottom end bearings could on the way out due to the increased stress since the top end overhaul. Most likely the big ends. So as Kev has saked, is it rumbling at idle?

Oil Grade?

CHeers Henny

Hi, Basics........... Low oil pressure? Numerically what is it and at what engine speeds are the readings. What's the grade of oil has it currently been filled with? 0w40 or 15w40? Not making sense as dr_mat & Kevhaywire are finding.

If you haven't got the shift weight cos your C is made earlier than what Kev has put above, then here's how..... All that is needed is about 10 minutes, a 13mm spanner and the parts (see list below). Looking from the front of the car, locate the nearside gear shift cable on top of the gearbox. Before undoing the lock nut, scribe some marks on the linkage so that the parts can be reassembled and adjusted to the previous position after the modification. Undo the lock nut and the bolt holding the nearside gearchange cable to the gearbox linkage is replaced by the new bolt with extra length to seat the balance weight onto the linkage. This is threaded into the cable end picking up on the square nut and tighten ( 18 ft.lb.). Replace the lock nut with the other new items listed. Adjust the cable/linkage back to the original scribed position and tighten ( 18 ft.lb.). The gearchange should now feel totally different, almost as if it is power assisted and the cost is about £25 or so using genuine VW parts. PARTS LIST (A) 357 711 188A Balance Weight (B) 357 711 234A Extended Bolt (hexagonal head) © N 902 920 01 Lock nut (D) N 904 294 01 Square nut, now N 909 083 01 (E) N 015 401 3 Washer (NB Parts list has not been checked with dealers for availability at July 2005.)

I bet your old one works now you've disturbed the cable / immobiliser box connection. So keep the old one as a spare. WD40 it all the same with the new transponder coil as the box's pins are still the old type. The VW bulletin replaces the coil reader and the immob box so that it's gold contacts on both.

Cheaper solution from another thread http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 5&lighter= "Classic immobiliser blocked by a bad connection. Drop the fuse/relay panel cover and the under dash cover on the drivers side. Up behind the headlight switch are a couple of black boxes. Follow the shiney black cable to the inboard plug connection on the bottom box of the stacked pair. Just slide the plug gently back & forth carefully cos of the fine pin connections. For longer term, spray the connector and box connection pins with WD40. The connector has gone high resistance - VW bulletin from 1997 for all VWs made 1995 to 1997 fitted with the key immobilisers. Later cars got gold plated pins to overcome this as have the replacement parts. Good luck"

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I went through the pain in 1997. WD40 and never failed since.