RW1

Yep, lambda adapts continuously for instance. In the first ten minutes it does rapid adjustments to get to the correct values, then after that it adjusts slowly as it is assumed that the conditions are more steady accept for such things as for fuel quality. Idle and mid throttle set themselves up inside the first ten minutes but the full throttle value for mapping offset in the ECU takes about 30 minutes to appear and stabilise. Without the rapid adjustments mode, the ECU I calculated could take as much as 5,000 miles maybe even 10,000 to adjust correctly. The TPS is harmonised in Basic Settings. Without this sequence the ECU guesses where the throttle is and so at small throttle settings and certain low rpm (Less than 1500 rpm). That struggling results symptoms such as stalling on the overrun, roughish engine behaviour (like a slight misfire), the engine slowing slightly without movement of the throttle at small throttle openings, hiccup on pick-up from idle, dullness in the throttle response from shut until opened up a fair way resultling in the car leaping forward as things wake-up, ie. the ECU doesn't see throttle movement, then suddenly does. Not every Corrado behaves the same as tolerance of components masks some of the symptons. The errors in higher revs are less pronouced due to the driving not being, how should I say "delicate". Well, I did write the article plus another one for the Auto Corrado during work with Ross-Tech on VAG-COM in late 2000. DutchVR6, if as you've already said early done the first part the other day, ie. disconnecting the ECU and then a drive, then just follow the second section "Basic Settings", selecting the right group for your ECU fitted ie. 000 or 001. You can do this second section as many times as you want, infact the service schedule calls up the BS sequence every 20,000 miles (30,000 km) but many dealer techs don't do it. Mainly because every VW model year and engine since 1992 have generated loads of different methods. How can a techie be expected to remember them and does he have time to consult manuals. The Corrado BS procedures for each engine (and in some cases certain years of manufacture) are buried away in the manuals and in some cases not obvious to spot. Doing BS on the VR6 will not "show" anything while you've got the engine ECU in this mode. It will be afterwards when you drive that you should notice a subtle change.

The rear spoiler system is controlled by two fuses. FUSE 16 15 Amp Controls : Rear spoiler control unit. Also on fuse: Dash warning/indicator lights, glove box light, multi function indicator. FUSE 21 15 Amp Controls : Rear spoiler adjustment Also on fuse: Interior lights, boot light, cigarette lighter, digital clock, engine diagnostics, central locking, multi function indicator. Neither are really satisfactory as key circuits are also isolated. The next option is to consider isolating the circuit at a convenient point in the circuit after the spoiler control unit supply output to the spoiler motor. In the boot and the tailgate, there are two breaks in the wiring loom for the spoiler feed. The one in the boot is located in the left hand side. Some of the trim will need to be removed to gain access. It is a two pin in-line connector with white/blue stripe and a green/white stripe wires passing through it. This can be separated when the spoiler needs to be kept down with the bike rack fitted. The other option is to remove the rear hatch inside panel and locate a two pin in-line connector with white/blue stripe and a green/white stripe wires entering and dual red and dual black wires respectively leaving the connector. Separating this will also prevent the spoiler rising. A third alternative is to remove the speed pulses fed to the control unit. Behind the fuse/relay panel, there is a connector with three wires to it. Two are blue with a white stripe, the third is white with a blue stripe. This third wire feeds the speed pulses to the control unit. Find it and isolate the third wire temporarily. Check the this has stopped the rear spoiler working while the Corrado is on the move. If successful, fit a switch to this wire, fit a wire extension back to the original connector connection and mount the switch in the lower dash area. Wire it so that the switch either makes the circuit (spoiler active) or breaks the circuit (spoiler inoperative). The above is based on 1991 16v wiring. If you want to pursue the options with switches etc, come back with your specific Corrado engine & when made and I'll look up the specific wiring charts for wire colours and routing.

Could as the ISV air circuit supplements the induction at low rev's to aid a smooth take up. Also hestitation (if it is at revs just above idle) sometimes is caused by the throttle not being harmonised to the engine ECU. If you have access to VAG-COM, try carrying it out Basic Settings (04) on either group 000 or 001 depending on your ECU part number. See bottom paragraph notes of ECU Reset procedure in Knowledge Base for which ECU goes with which group. Basically put the ECU into BAsic Setting mode, select the group, open the throttle upto 3,000 rpm for 3 seconds and then leave to idle for further 2 minutes, exit basic settings while the radiator fan is not running. Job done. Costs you nowt other than 15 minutes of your own time and at least you've eliminated that. dr_Mat - As far as I know, it's VW part only.

Yessss, it's sealed no air leaks when new. Yesssss it's a noise damper. What's your idle speed like? Rough or smooth?

Hi, It's known as the Idle Stabilisation Valve Damper. Tuned sound deadening part. Blowing like it is means it's bust and also you have a problem, it should be air tight. Possibly the ISV is sticking or an inlet valve is leaking giving rise to higher pressure in the inlet manifold or it has simply given up with age to the airpressures inside. New part replacement.

Ohhh dead right, but the engine gradually didn't run right and changing the VW paper filter back in with a very gentle clean of the MAF (462 variety) brought it all back to normal again.

Excellent. Just be wary with the K&N filter and it's oiling. Particularly if it's a MAF ending in part number "462". They are sensitive to oil comination. I found with a K&N panel fitted (straight out of the box) that the engine gradually ran rougher over a period of a few weeks. Gone back to VW origianl filters every 10,000 miles as there is no difference according to magazine test review upto that point. You might examine the old one in that light considering it wasn't showing any ECU fault code.

It bears no relevance.

KR 1.8 ltr, no set up after electrical power loss. 9A 2.0ltr, well yes but not like the VR6. More a check than a set up procedure. Should also be done at the service intervals. ECU is 8A0 907 404L or 404CC You will need VAG-COM at v409.0 standard. Earlier versions such as v311.2 won't work with this ECU family. Also need to set the "Start Baud" to 4800 in the options before you interrogate otherwise the ECU digital communication "chokes". To reset the ECU comms you have to turn off the ignition and back on. After power loss such as a battery change or a service, warm the engine upto normal operating temperature and do the following check: Put the engine ECU into "Basic Settings" and then select group 000. Raise the engine revs to 3,000 rpm for 3 seconds and then allow to idle for a further minute. (if the Corrado 16v 2.0ltr is an Auto, P or N must be selected during this test) Now check that field 9 has a value of 5 in it. If not, then you are looking at other values. These values determine where the fault or combination of faults. They relate to micro-switches, CO level, ignition timing amongst other things. A lot of diagnosis with "if" and "then this".

Heinrich Baumgartner and Klaus Brand established a small manufacturing plant for plastic body parts in Schiltach. The initials of both founders and the city are the basis of the name "BBS".

The reason I asked the Q is that some later Corrado's will close the sunroof, windows and locks by holding the key in the driver's door lock in the "lock it" position. If your car does this with the key, and the sunroof and windows fully close, then there is nothing wrong with the Corrado itself. With both windows fully down and sunroof fully back, the closing sequence is passenger window lifting and sunroof closing, followed by the driver's door window. The locks in the doors and boot move at the same time as the passenger window/sunroof. The whole sequence takes 7 seconds. If the key is turned to neutral while this sequence in completing, the windows and sunroof stop. Therefore if the key operation can complete the sequence to fully closed but the alarm can't, then it is quite likely the alarm command signal to close the car is too short in duration. Given 8 seconds is for a squeaky clean car, it probably needs to be a few seconds longer for a regularly used car. So, Stormin Dave's line I would agree is the most likely if key works fully.

Not a "plug 'n' play" part. But check the ECU can see the throttle angle changing about 10 to 12 degrees idle to about 90 degrees full throttle. VAG-COM Measuring Blocks Group 003 field 3. Can be done with ignition ON and engine not started. No need to do the actual disconnect and drive bit if the Corrado is running correctly and the ECU has been set up previously. Just do the second bit of the procedure, ie. put the ECU into basic settings, rev the engine to 3,000 rpm for about 3 seconds and then allow to idle for a further 2 minutes but exit BS when the radiator fan isn't running. You will need to select the right group though for the ECU, 000 or 001. Same for when you change the MAF. Effect of not doing is possible stalling on the overrun and slightly "off" fuelling.

The 1,000 is arbitory like running in an engine. Agree about the paper in the box and what's written doesn't specify. Checked all my old instructions. It puzzled me at the time as I use to fit internally adjustable ones and I set them at new to the required setting but at the time of my first TA's , that's when I when I came across the "running in" period. I'll have to have a good look round for the info as I won't have thrown it away. As side point, the internally adjustable ones always needed a 1/2 turn firmer to bring them back to the desired setting after about 5,000 miles. Very frustrating as taking the suspension apart is not the most fun job. TA's haven't but them I haven't run any of them from initial fit without the initial "soft" period. At the end of the day, it's a choice of options isn't it. But one caution with Koni's, never set them full firm from the start (as per instruction sheet) or up the top end towards firm in the early mileage. It can result in the seals failing and oil blowing out of the top adjustment point of the shaft and the shock locking up very, very stiff. Not an unknown problem with Koni's. The leaflet do advise oil may come out of the top of the shaft but the above isn't the same. Their instructions are referring to the seals bedding in with this weepage. Warrenty covers it but it's the hassle and I don't know if they compensate these days for your garage labour costs. The UK concession (Banks?) until they ceased trading in the mid 90's didn't pay, just gave you replacement shocks.

Depends how long you want them to last.

surfer.vr6 What happens when you put the ignition key in the driver's side door lock and hold in the lock position for a few seconds? Besides the locks, does the sunroof and windows close?

VR6 ECU adjusts auto matically for fuelling with 95 - 99 RON. Difference in power though acorss the rev range. Generally about a 3 - 4% power loss between 98RON and 95RON at peak revs (5,800rpm) and proportionally below that.

Can't lay my fingers on the file at the moment but it's like an engine or brakes, work them hard initially and you won't get the life out of them. 1998 - a mere tick in time. 1978 and several cars fitted. Current run around has done 130,000 miles and they haven't needed adjustment after the initial period.

Did you spin the disc the first time round after you tighten the outer nut. Always do this to "bed" the bearing home. Don't use the nut alone to push the bearings home, keep a slow turn motion going as you tighten. Then adjust the outer securing nut again just so as the thick washer behind it can just slide by pushing it with a screwdriver. Spin the disc again and make sure it it's binding, just rubbing friction. Put the wheel back on and jack down. With the car chocked or in gear, handbrake off, put your foot on the top side of the tyre and rock the tyre and wheel. THere should be at max a very, very slight clunk-clunk. Any more and the bearing is slack. If no clunk, the bearing is too tight. You can also quick check the rear bearings this way at any time without wasting too much time. The split pin is there for exactly this reason, to stop the nut coming off. Also use a new split pin for this job. The old one can been weakened when removing.

"How do you explain the humped carpets in the boot then?" The space saver was standard with a flat boot carpet piece. But if the original owner ordered the option, ie. a full size wheel spare, the carpet came with a hump. The option in April 1995 was £240.88. The wheel should go in.

Watch it with the badge, it can be a little weak in the middle and break. The "thin" point is visible.

Run the Koni's on the slackess setting for the first 1,000 miles until they have bedded in. Not doing so shortens their useful life. Then adjust front and back in pairs to personal taste. Always keep the fronts or backs as a pair identical setting. Can't comment on the rubbing as wheel offset, tyre make, etc. are so variable. You'll just have to take it easy in the first 1,000 miles while on the slackess setting but upping it afterwards to stop bottoming won't be the solution if they are rubbing.

PM sent for you. Hmmm..... ISP was causing grief yesterday. I can see it in my out box so you should have it now.

Standard alarms for Cat 1 on 1994 Corrado at delivery were Scorpion 5000 and Conlog 900. These were sold under VAG accessory part numbers but weren't "badged" VW. Both will not feature on the Thatcham approved lists now. Not all owners had alarms fitted by the dealer. So it may not be even an old Cat 1 standard.

fla, The relay 109 problem is internal corrosion on the base board leading to a cracked metal connection due to poor protective coating applied at the factory. "Its got the black plastic cover. " One less to check. "How could you test to see if the immobiliser isolates the ECU?" It down to basics of tracing where the circuit isolation wires from the alarm go to...... fuel pump supply, ECU supply, starter realy supply..... No easy way.

Eric, This fault has the hall marks of a weeping injector. Worth eliminating. Over night etc., when you expect it NOT to start. Take the plugs out at that point and sniff each cylinder. Also examine down each cylinder onto the piston crown. Obviously they should be dry but if wet or there is a strong petrol smell, then that injector is leaking. The slow start/stuttering is because the injector has weeped away the residual fuel system pressure and so the pump has to build up pressure from nothing rather than 2 bar. This fault isn't electrical, it's fuel related.