junkie

Mostly all in the head design as already mentioned. 5 valves per cylinder = lots of flow. Think they can flow as much as a race tuned 16v head as standard, more air in = more fuel to burn = more power.

How much you looking to spend? If it were me i would drive your front end off an amp as thats where you sit, the rear speakers from the front end head unit and then a sub from an amp, either a 2 amp system or single 4 way. If your interested i have JL Audio amps for sale and a JL 12"sub with box and some cabling, pretty much all you need to get a full system including using your own.

Ideally you want more power than the speaker is rated at, this gives you head room to work with. If a speaker can handle say 100w rms then give it 100w rms, not sure what the Focal K2's (not to be confused with the K2P's) are rated to but im running them with the Phoenix Gold 1000/2 amp, thats 1000 Phoenix Gold watts. Now this could sound way too much but when the EQ gets played around with for every 3db gain, it takes twice the power at that frequency so this is why you need the head room and more power in the amp. Been running this way for around 2 years with no blown voice coils and used hard all the time.

Its all about getting it set up right, sometimes you need a rear fill in, i felt like i did in mine, was not happy with the sound then took the sub out and its loads better. I have listened to plenty of cars only running front end and sub that were perfect, so its not always required to have rear fill in, you just need to match all your components well, like a big turbo wont work well with a pea shooter exhaust. In sound quality competitions the best sounding 1's will sonund as though the low bass is coming from the end of the bonnet.

I have to agree and disagree with the points of needing a sub. Yes you need a sub to get substantial bass but you dont need a sub to get the bass sound. Low bass is what you feel and mid bass is what you hear, i prefer to hear the kick drums which makes the music have depth, i have taken my 12" sub out. I can play mine on a motorway and still get the bass sound, it does not get drowned out and im running 6.5" Focal K2, 4 years old. But the catch is it is a long and costly way to do it, so if you want the quick bass and cheaply then yes get a 8-10" sub which will not over power you chav style. Its costly as i have done the following:- Nakamichi front end Phoenix gold line driver Phoenix gold 215eq phoenix gold 1000/2 amp Focal K2 Audioscape pods x1 dynamat extreme bulk kit split between both front doors

Well if i had a cam to do the vid i would do, and you have dipped out for not just a ride but a drive as your not doing ED38 now, how comes???

Does the battery def still die as it can run on but should cut out at some point.

I have a little rust under the seal on the top of the glass, now it dont look too bad but will keep getting worse if something is not done sooner rather than later, all looks like the windscreen was prob replaced at some point and where the rust is, the seal is not flush tight to the body. So im wondering if its a job i could tackle myself, not sure how easy/hard it is to get the glass out and back in, has anybody tackled this on a corrado, or just leave it to the pro's? How much is a new seal going to set me back?

Im running Haltech on mine and as with most stand alone they are not the best from cold, glad you managed to sort yours out some. My problem sounds similar to yours that upon cold start cranking it will try to fire but wont on 1st crank, then will fire then stall on 2nd crank, then will fire and run, this is not everytime though, all depends on the outside ambient temp, winter is a real pain sometimes takes 5+ attempts. My plugs are not helping matters as well, waiting on the arrival of some new 1's, hopefully will help some.

Is there not any that are full munual, no electric no heated.

Never heard you had problems kev, glad its sorted. What kind of figures you putting out now-a-days, never heard ought?

Basically take the best bits out of turbos that will give you the kind of drive you want and power. So as an example:- Garrett T3/T4 hybrid Garrett T3 is a smaller less leg turbo and cant make the big numbers but good to drive low down to mid range and runs out of breath. Garrett T4 is a larger more lag turbo and can make the big numbers but not good to drive low down but really good mid to high range. Now we want both these characteristics out of the turbo so we can use the exhaust turbine housing from the T3 to get more drivability low down and come on boost sooner, and the larger T4 compressor to make the bigger numbers. This is the basic theory but then you need to consider the exhaust and compressor wheels to maximise both the benefits but there will still always be a trade off somewhere. This topic of hybrids could easily fill a book so my example is really simple terms, but you take the parts you want, sizing the exhaust and compressor housing and the shaft with what wheels you need. I could use my IHI VF22 and hybrid that using the same 2 housings i have already and just change the shaft to fit different wheels inside to give a totally different drive from the turbo.

That explains it then :lol: The GT3076 is a 525whp capable turbo and the GT3582 can dish out 600whp, so making a hybrid of the two (a GT3082 if you like) gives the quick spooling qualities of the GT30, with the high boost output of the GT35. Most folk use a GT28RS on the 1.8T which is only good for around 400hp, which is why I was sceptical. Not many folk fit the big fella GT30/35s to 1.8Ts, so hats off to him for getting it to work. Yeah I could tell that by one sentence in the write up..."I wanted to drive a car to the track, make no changes, then drive home in comfort and it's taken me 4 years to achieve...", or words to that effect. So yes, I take it all back, this man more than likely does have a 550hp Corrado :lol: See like i said you know a lot more than i do :D must be your age showing through u old git :D :D :D Did you get laid last night as your in a friendly mood today :lol: :lol: :lol:

For me these dont get any better, but what do they come with adjustment wise?

That and Corrado ones do both modes of adjustment in electric, golf ones only do height. Any specs on which recaro's from which cars do electric/manual options. Im really after manual only?

Thought that was the case after looking at rallye's today, reallyliked those.

Looking to get myself a set of OEM recaros, now im not sure if there is any differences between 1's found in corrado's, golfs that may have had them or rallye's? I know about the subframe issues if they dont originate from a corado. Do they all come electric as standard as i don't want a set of these i would and do like the manual adjustment?

Good to hear a good comment on these, just waiting on delivery on them, to put in my ibiza brembos :D Without hi-jacking this thread can somebody reccommend a disc to match this set up?

What did alonso do not seen this?

No its not necessary but can you be sure you wont want to go further later on down the line. And you generally only get clatter/piston slap on start up and warming the engine up, once warm its ok, i get more from the tappets.

Lol i honestly dont take it personally and i dont know him, met him twice now, im just answering the question of does anybody have any info on the engine and i have said what i know. Sure the turbo is a hybrid GT30 or 35 and i dont know half as much as you do on engines and turbos, maybe im gullible but even if its not that power its still a bloody quick car. I know they were never in question i was trying to point out he does not seem the type to tell porkies and generally have a chat if you see him somewhere most likely the pod. :)

It was originally run on the standard G60 management with a Jabbasport custom chip, but now its on Haltech stand alone. You saying mine has a 1.8T/20T? Its a converted G60 to turbo, still G60 engine but with the IHIvf22 conversion 1900. Agreed would be good to see a standard charger with the sns but to get a real world comparison it would need to be on the same charger as in not rebuilt yet.

Not saying the SNS chip doesnt work as your describing but surely the increase in instant pull is more down to the 68mm pulley as it is producing more boost low down and the charger is producing the boost better been a new build.

Well im sure the old rollers were a bit optimistic but thought the new 1's were more accurate? So my figures are naff as well then. He not involved with Jabba just a mate of james, did all the car himself apart from the mapping and i think thats where jabba come in. He has tried all sorts of turbos to get to the power levels he is at and there is a lot of custom fabrication in the engine so im sure the figures are not just pub talk. If you see him and get the chance have a chat with him, he really is sound and not up his own backside like some people in the "scene" are.

Engine management. Have it on my Haltech management as well but not used yet as i dont wanna kill my turbo. How can you say that Kev its really impressive.