MattWilde

sweet, will see you there!

peanut butter is also said to have such properties

yeah, I actually like the G Lader for some reason :cuckoo: :tongue: and it seems in fine fettle but I might get Darren to have a look at it when I'm down there getting it mapped. Jim, will you be at Stonor? I'm useless at writing things so could do with a chat to get some ideas for the write up if you don't mind

It's been happening here too :( and as stuart said, the twisty b roads are still national. Thankfully the police still seem thin on the ground so when you forget it's not a 60 anymore you don't get caught out. They have also changed my local bypass to 40 all along, instead of having the middle bit 50. No warning, they just removed the 50 signs and put up a couple of 40's. I still find it difficult not to accelerate to 50 out of habit! Amusingly, they have still left the posts and lights for where the large 50 signs were, good use of electricity guys!!

car? DAMN IT!!!!!! :lol: Fingers crossed it's all done for Stonor. Might even have enough time to get a nice exhaust on there too :clap:

The engine as it is now, looking pretty sweet should be about 2 weeks for it to be up and running, so just in time for stonor :D

Sorry dude, last options i know are to check ALL the earth leads and points, make sure they are all there and and nice and clean. Then the lambda sensor, after those two I'm lost too. But if it's badly overfueling try not to drive it as you'll wash out your bores and that costs alot more to fix

Hey, thankfully for me I've not had a problem with that vacuum pipe so can't be 100% sure on symptoms but I have been told that it has to be EXACTLY 1 metre long, 90cm would mean a definate raplacement, can't promise it will fix the prob you have at the moment, but that may be masking a problem caused by the pipe so change it anyway. If the blue temp sender swap hasn't worked try giving the ISV a clean with petrol (carb cleaner will work but some say it damages the seals inside) and next would be checking that the wires to the blue sender and lambda sensor. The engine bay gets very hot and after 18 years these wires geet brittle and will then cause the same problems as a duff sensor. Hope you get it sorted dude, could try asking on the dubforce forum too, keep your options open!!

yep, looks the same as the blue sender, only it's black.

git.....but well done dude, sweet find :clap:

The blue plug sends the water temperature to the ecu and the black one sends the signal to the dash, if your gauge isn't working then it sounds like you need a black temp sender too! (I keep a spare blue sender in the car for just such purposes, tempramental little gits) The 1m pipe goes to the ecu and basically tells it how much boost there is, along with the blue temp sender and the lambda probe the ecu keeps the car running well. If the pipe is too long/short or has any holes then the reading will be out and the ecu will fuel appropriately. As you can see, if the temp sender and the pipe are stuffed then the car won't know what's going on!!

diagnostics won't work on it dude, the ecu isn't advanced enough to have fault codes. The idle adjustment screw is on the back of the throttle body, from memory it's a small brass screw and shouldn't be too hard to find. Also try the blue temp sender, with the engine warm and idling as stable as poss unplug the blue temp sender clip (on the water pipe housing on the front of the block, should have two senders, one black one blue) the idle should change noticably. If it doesn't a new one is needed, get a genuine one not a GSF one though. There should be a black vacuum pipe running from the back of the throttle body to the ecu, this cable must be in good condition and exactly(!!!!) 1 metre long, it's not expensive to buy just ask for 110cms and measure and cut to 1 metre at home to make sure. Lambda probe could do with investigating but I guess you'll need a multimeter and some figures to correspond to and I can't help with that I'm afraid. Hope this helps!

sorry dudes, car STILL isn't on the road yet and my wish for it to be ready for the ccgb agm is looking slim too :( will update as soon as i can

sounds nice!! I'm going to get the boring stuff out of the way quickly, suspensions sounds like it has been done, but check all bushes and related wear and tear items as anything old and tired will soon fail with more power. Brakes should be thought about too, no point going faster if you can't stop.... then do the good thing and supercharge it :D :nuts: plenty of 'charged vr's on here to look for regarding build ideas

Hi and welcome to the forum!! :wave: What have you done to the car so far, or is it standard? And do you have any pics, that could help with the ideas too :)

i don't have a photo but don't worry. That metal bit does bolt onto the charger. If you look at the edge of it there should be 2 semicircle bits cut into it, These line up with the holes in the charger, use the same bolts that held the original pipe in to bolt the metal part on, the head of the bolt holds the bracket on. Hope this helps dude :salute:

You should have two plastic pipes coming from the yellow valve, I have broken one of mine in the past so connected the pipe to the other one and blanked off the hole with a metal putty. The solid black plastic pipe with the yellow valve looks to be a right pain to change as it connects to the brake servo next to the suspension turret, not much space!!

At a guess £25 plus VAT and parts? not sure on the cost of the mount though

I know, i'll get some more this weekend hopefully. But everytime I go to see the car I want to drive it, it's getting so close to being finishesd I'm itching!!!!!!!1111111one

come on jon, it's only been a year and a half!! with interest that's a few lifts I owe you then :lol: If I get chance this weekend I'll get to the garage and get some more pics too

After almost 4 years of being on here I think it's time to share some pics and history of my car, I'll keep it short as I'll probably do a full report for the sprinter mag :) but ask any questions you have and I'll do my best to answer. Big thanks to Elie and Tom at Voodoo Motorsport, Darren and the team at G-Werks, Glen at Bucks transmissions, TSR for the diff and Eurospec for the engine and all the people on here for the info and help :salute: sorry it's a bit lacking in pics, but as soon as it's finished i'll get it all washed and get some nice photos taken with the proper cameras at work As it is now :( climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfEngine bits 05.jpg[/attachment:3q5gaih2] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfEngine bits 03.jpg[/attachment:3q5gaih2] Engine bits 02.jpg[/attachment:3q5gaih2] All the brackets, manifolds and rockercover are being cleaned up and powdercoated and the wheels are being refurbed too. I'm hoping for it to be all done for the AGM at Gaydon. Just have the pain of bedding it all in to come, will keep updating as things happen and I get pictures Cheers for looking :clap:

i'm in dudes, was good fun last year. might put in two teams this year too :clap:

Guys, for a better view of the effects of wheels with no lowering the pic at the top of this thread is a good one http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=77612 hope it helps

Pardon me being an ignoramous - am I going to have the same issues if I went with 16"? I'm new to all this change wheel size business, if I'm spending dosh on a new set of wheels I want to get it right! Yep if you increase the size of your wheels then you are generally decreasing the size of the sidewall of your tyre. Therefore it makes your arch gap look bigger. And the Corrado arch gap is large enough std as is! :grin: Yep, my lesson was learnt on my old Daihatsu Charade GTti, went from 13" to 15" before i lowered it and it looked ridiculous, I wish I knew where the photo's were so I could show you.

I'm with jim on this one, always do the suspension first or it will look silly, trust me I learnt from experience