MattWilde

Have a go a slightly loosening the 13mm pinch bolt that holds all the linkage to the lever arm. then move it millimeters and re tighten, try for 5th again. keep having a go at that, can get frustrating as it only takes fractions of movement to make big changes to the whole alignment of the linkage. Had this prob with 1st on my mk2 and after burning my arms abit got it all sorted. Make sure it's super tight when you get it in the right place though, you don't want that moving when you are driving along or it's bye bye to all gears!!

sorry :( did think it would be a pea roast but just incase...

Possible pea roast but this is some awesome driving!!! :notworthy: :notworthy: http://video.kenblockracing.com/flash/small_player/preloader.swf?vendor_id=204&media_id=9183&bgcolor=FFFFFF&autoplay=0 (if a mod can shorten that down i would be grateful, or if someone could show me how?)

I think your problem has been answered in the other post, but just incase this is different (or i'm going mad and think you are someone else) have you tried a listening stick? any solid metal stick will do, just press it against the area the noise is coming from and it will amplify the vibrations and help pinpoint the problem. But if you are the person from the other thread (please be, so i can prove to myself i'm not :cuckoo:) then it sounds like a boost pipe has popped off or split. HTH

I'm a G60 man myself, but from what i've read it's a bit of a shame you are keeping the H plate for the restoration. I think you want to put the KR cams (possibly the whole head) in the 9a, seems to be a popular mod. I'm sure a far more knowledgeable person will be along soon though, good luck and get some pics up!

i mountain bike, so no such thing as winter wheels :D but saying that, i let gravity do all the work for me so i have huge respect for you nutters with enough energy to cycle all day for miles :notworthy: , the most energy i expend is pushing the bike up the hill!

had a look around the twingo at the renault sport weekend at silverstone earlier this year and agree with Jim, it just doesn't have the edge to it, would have to be a sensational drive but i doubt it would beat the 500 in that department either

I've heard of people having winter wheels before, but that's going a bit too far!!

the challenger is the best looking, but i can't ignore the performance of the corvette, so that would be my choice. lovely car

Hi, and may I say what a wonderful colour that is, one of the best the C came in (not that i'm biased;) )

just to clarify with the dizzy timing, the blue temp sender must be unplugged and the car rev'd 3 times over 3K rpm and left to settle to idle each time. Then with a programable strobe (not one that runs off the HT leads) set to 6 degrees advance set the dizzy timing

answered whilst i was typing, so ignore me :)

where are you based? a check up from a good G60 garage (stealth, G-Werks, Voodoo, etc. etc.) could solve the problems very quickly. It does sound like the timing is well out, so it could be sorted in an hour. G60 timing is an odd thing, so do a quick search to find a guide and print it out if you are too far from a specialist and need to go to a local garage. don't give up, and good luck

bushes and topmounts then i guess :shrug:

Whoo 5th, well happy. This league was almost as close as the real thing!! please can the bbc do that same for next year, sadly, i've enjoyed this :(

It was recommended to re-torque the head gaskets on the 9000 saab's at 100K ish, but i can't see what oil has to do with headgasket life

Great race, and both Trulli and Glock ran very similar last lap times, so i think the temperature just dropped on the last lap, no dodgyness there. I'm glad Hamilton won, and as a brit driver for a brit team i will support Mclaren and Hamilton, but he comes across as a very arrogant and unlikable guy. I think he rubs the other drivers up the wrong way and it might cost him a few races if not championships as they won't help him. Massa seems a much more likeable guy, composed himself very well with the loss of the championship yesterday, i can't imagine Hamilton acting so well. I just hope bmw, toyota and renault are closer to ferrari and mclaren next season for some good racing and i hope one of the big teams snap vettel up soon, would be a good replacement for kovalinen..... ETA : gutted for coulthard, last race and knocked out on the second corner!!!! deserved better

to be honest, there are lots of people on here who know more than me, but normally when wheel bearings go they make a deep whirring noise as you drive, without that symptom i'd be suprised if the bearings were gone. Vague steering and a wandering car has me thinking bushes/top mounts etc. so i'd get them checked first. When tracking/camber is out this can make the steering light and heavy as the relationship between the tyre and road are wrong, so more or less effort will be needed to turn them.

have you checked the bushes?

Leonard, if you need a co-pilot, i'm there :D

I have to say, that new Rocco looks pretty good in those pics! But the MK1 is stunning :shock:

Yeah, got mine friday. Was wondering what the postie had tried to deliver as I couldn't remember ordering anything, now enjoying a G&T out of it as it's not a pint glass :D

yeah, speak to robert. It was £602.28, if they shipped a job lot in it should hopefully be the same price, but if they just ordered mine, then with the £ being a bit weak it could cost a bit more

Right, my diff was delivered today so as promised, here are some pictures of it and what you get in the fitting kit The Diff ARP Bolts Although TSR said I needed to get the bearings, these came in the kit from Autotech, happy days :grin: I'm glad I have a professional building my box, no idea what all this lot is for! Hope this helps some people out, with postage it cost £602ish pounds, but now the £-$ has gone a bit belly up it might change

With the boost return pipe removed you should have a small air filter at the end of the ISV, a pipe either feeding an oil catch tank or just taking the oil mist from the rocker cover away from the engine bay and the underneath of the throttle body is free to be open, not blanking or pipework needed, and there should be a braided pipe running to the charger from the engine to lube the bearings. With this set up a regular spray of a non silicone PTFE spray is needed into the charger to keep it lubricated as the boost return pipe also fed the oil mist from the rocker cover into the charger for this reason. Unless alot of head work has been done 0.5 bar is low. Have you checked for boost leaks (i'm sure a how to is in the wiki), if not get the charger looked at by G-Werks. Hope it's good new dude