Toad

That's Billinjas car. Look for his members gallery thread....

That's the abs. The idle is controlled by the ecu, isv and the idle speed screw on valvers.

Lol! The shell is pretty nasty mate pics make it look far better than it is... Living in a hedge for 2 years ruined it. I didn't do it any good, but it was never a servicable car...

by the way.. the tractor is just parked there for no particular reason, and does anyone know if I need a pilots license to fly it??

I've not been on here too much recently due to an especially busy period at work, and not proper access to the forum in the day time, but I finally left my job on Saturday, and spent today working on one of the rados to celebrate. i know that Mr Potatonet wasn't too popular for suggesting a revolutionary new engine type, but here's my go... I ditched the existing 1.816v motor, and used a perkins 105hp engine to power it. Now I realise that most people want more power from their rados to make them quicker, but by ditching the 30hp allowed me to make my car fly! That's right. I have a flying corrado.... Check it out below... I need to sort some body panels out , but I'll be all over the show scene next year in her. I realise that some of your fragile minds might not be able to take seeing her, so I'll put a bit of a gap in the page so you can decide for yourself. Last chance.... Here goes.. And to help there's one of my father piloting her...

I live in Bishops Waltham and could pop down with Vag Com sometime. Drop me a pm...

Yup... The 4 strips come from the amplifier in the coilpack, there are actually 3 coilpacks in the unit, each supplying sparks to 2 cylinders, this is a "wasted spark" ignition system and the 2nd cylinder gets a spark which does not ignit anything, as it is on it's exhaust stroke rather than compression. The 4 strips are an earth and positive to the 3 packs I believe.

Hmmm, I'd disconnect the battery for 10 mins or so.. Worked with mine when it went mental.

I replaced the cables on my valver and they made a huge difference Dave. Best done on a ramp though, and get some of the stainless clip things for the rear axle, they're a right pain to remove. Think the cables are around £8 each or so. Mine seixed into the metal guide tubes and I needed to melt the plastic with a blow gun and clean the tube up after, also get an assistant to guide it up through the floor from inside or you might punch a hole through your carpet :? The classic car show looks a good laugh, shame I can't pop up.

I want to say lots of rude words... I eventually got the gauge surround off after searching for screwdrivers in just the right legnth and size and fitted a differenct temp and fuel gauge unit. The temp read 100+ plus whilst driving around still. Admitedly it overread by less, but, it still overread. And I found this out too late to go and pick up my other replacement temp sender.... Testicles. Any ideas?? Jim has mentioned voltage regulator issues in this thread Could these be part of my issue??? I'm really losing patience with this problem now...

Hmmm. That's interesting... perhaps that is an issue that I am having then.

I wouldn't worry about it too much... Wasn't the tank new the other day? You can have the coolant tested to see if it's had exhaust gas in it, but if you've been draining it out and putting back in, it could be contaminated and give a false reading. Does your system actually pressurise, can you still squeeze the pipes when it's hot? I'd not concentrate on the head as being a problem at the moment. Look at the wiring first, maybe try anther tank.. I could bring one to lend you to the stealth rr day if you would like.

Use the search... there's an ongoing group buy on the forum for them.

Might be a sticky tappet where the engine has been sat for a little while...

I've looked at them a bit and I've come to the conclusion that some (early vrs possibly) after-run for 10 minutes no matter what. Others (Late??) only after-run with the fans. The pump runs constantly with the ignition on. The cars that I have seen with the three fuses in the fan/aux pump controller seem to only after-run with the fan. If the pump is not running at all, take the contoller pack off and shake it, if there is a rattle, one or both of the diodes inside have gotten too hot and unsoldered themselves from the pcb. You can open it up and resolder them if necessary. I have a particularly noisy pump, so I've been able to hear where and when it runs clearly.

I saw the thread title, and thought you were talking about me.... :lol: I'd love a go in an RS4. See what a properly quick car is really like.

I've found a gauge from my parts bin ;) and am going to wack it in one evening... looks simple enough to do in half an hour or so... probably will take all night though. Gonna try that next I think. ReekieVR does the bottom rad hose get warm soon then? Does it ever get above 70?

27 Years, 3 Points (about to come off) Parked on parents farm or work car park. N plate VR6 10k mile policy Fully comp £350 ish H plate 16v 10k mile policy Fully comp, protected no claims £320

So... The temp reading from VAG com, on the measuring blocks is direct from the yellow temp sender? I thought it was from the blue one? If it is direct from the yellow one, then it's my gauge that is knackered... I've phoned my local dealer and a temp gauge with integrated fuel level gaue for a vr is £118 with VAT... :( :( :shock: :shock:

Cheers for the offer Ben, have replied to your PM... Tom

Yeah, no worries.. can meet you just off the m3 if you want. I assume that's the route you take? I don't finish work till quite late, that's the only issue. Probably be in till 6.30-7 tomorrow...

Hmmm maybe I'll unplug it and take it for a run... The car runs really smoothly, but massively underpowered, dunno what it could be. I've checked for air leaks, and there are no error codes (until I pull the maf plug off....) The plugs are all a nice colour, and the fuel economy is around 28-29mpg, but this could be down to not having 5th gear all the time.

The little pipe that runs from the left of the radiator (as you look at it from the front, to the header tank you should see water and air bubbles coming out of this pipe through the header tank moulding when you have the engine running.

I wonder if it is the gauge slowly dying? It would appear to only be the gauge that is over reading, the fan and pump still run on where they should do. Spoke to my helpful parts man, and he said he'd change it for another one at the weekend. If not.. .I wonder If I could put a resistor in the line to bring the reading down?

What car is this by the way? My 1.8 16v had a blocked bleed pipe once... Dunno if that helps.