bix

I reckon you'll need a stage 4 charger aswell, at least to get 190bhp, prolly a big intercooler too!

I dont think they goto the engine ecu tho, they must just goto the abs ecu...could be wrong tho?

LOL, doh!

Yup about 400 quid from http://www.eurocarparts.com! Just got my cheque for a rear ender and only got £420, but that was for repairing the old bumper...think I'll just get a 2nd hand one and get it sprayed.

Dont think vag-com works on digifant 1 no, but it does have a diagnostic output (hence OBD-1 On-Board Diagnostic), you can read the codes with an led, but the diagnostic pin on the ecu doesnt have a connector in the plug (on mine anyway) so it could be a chore! There is a diagram on snstuning.com that tells you which pin it is, and a list of codes and how to read them on vortex! EDIT: http://www.polo-gt.co.uk/mechanical/DigifantFaultCodeReader.html http://www.snstuning.com/DIY/Digi%20Diagrams/ecu.htm

Um should the AFR cycle from lean to OK?

Probably

No I didnt but, I was told by Bilal the chip could be used with either 68 or 65mm pulley and red top, but either way its running too rich if anything, cuz the new plugs I put in yesterday have carboned up already :?

are they all the correct length m8? Well the ecu hose thats supposed to be the critical one, I chopped 5mm off, but just pushed it on 5mm less, I really cant see the lengths being that critical myself, but I dunno, anyway its never been an issue before and I've change nothing, it just happened :? EDIT: only thing I have change is the 68mm pulley for a 65mm pulley, but that shouldnt cause this problem!

Interesting. When I tried this at the weekend with my newly built and ported charger I was at red line before getting a reading this high. It has me concerned really. What do you guys normally see ?? At what RPM would your MFA be reading max boost. Ok looks like I told a bit of a lie! Its [email protected] then goes upto 1920@3k, I have seen it of 1940 low down before tho, but then it drops off a bit, and hits 2000@redline and bleeds :x Vac hoses all seem fine, dont have the one to the cc, and its blocked off at the throttle body, could be leaking i guess...its too hot atm EDIT: attachment didnt work, not that its too great :? EDIT2: gah video still didnt work, whats the max filesize?

My g60 has developed a problem :( Seems like rileys power on, power off, power off, power on, problem between 2-3k, kinda kangaroos but just doesnt pull as hard when power off, I'm sure this has only just started because it would have shown up on the power run I got done, and the power delivery on that is smooth, kinda like it misfires at 2500 and 2750rpm, then after that it just pulls normally. Got a new set of plugs yesterday, dizzy cap, rotor arm, and temp senders are all fairly new(tested the temp senders too), tested the throttle switches. Also doesnt seem to be a boost issue, was quite surprised to see just over 1950 on the mfa at 2500rpm, I'll check it with the boost guage later, cuz the mfa doesnt respond quick enough anyway I think. I've never change the leads since I've had it, but surely this cant be the problem? Any ideas? Cheers Ryan

Nice idea and good work, but a. if you cant get hold of the seller you'll have trouble following it up, and b., you can get a rough location from the dialling code anyway! I like it tho, could come in handy..maybe :)

Quality, love it!

Yeah I thought american miles are shorter too!

As above, is it easy to remove/refit, or are the glued in or something? Cheers Ryan

New ones smell like rotten eggs :gag:

Dont get the 5800k cheap blue ones off ebay, there completely useless, full beam, on a big loom, is like normal bulbs dipped with no uprated loom!

Quite easy, just a few bolts to take out, and a few jubilee clips to put back on! I think the only reason people do this is because they like the noise it make, maybe you will too, but you wont see any performance increase!

It sounds dreadful driving at half throttle though, hissing and whistling and all sorts of gay noises, you'll find your foot welded to the floor and changing at 5krpm :? My opinion anyway :)

You'll need the same size or bigger fuse thats in your amp or amps, close to the battery, it is really essential too, if the wire shorts out in the boot it will melt and your carpet too, and could indeed cause a fire!

Which is surely the point? Sound quality, although highly subjective, is the goal! So what if it looks a bit sort of MDFy, so long as it tingles your ear buds, then it's all good..... you can tidy it up afterwards if required ;-) Yeah I'm only bothered it sounds good and the sub sounds great! Shakes your eyeballs! Just need to get a decent set of 6x9s on an amp and something in the front now!

Exactly, an amp has a smps to step-up the 12v to say +/- 100v, and you need to isolate the 0v on the smps output from the cars ground, which makes it difficult to regulate the smps output, so many older/cheaper amp dont, hence the whine!

Heres my professional :oops: looking install, I also have the (cheap) rca cables running alongside the power cables, and there is no interference, I think it depends on the design of the amp as to whether you get that alternator whine on the output, and also maybe as its a sub amp the low pass filter helps. And yes it does sound a little better than it looks!

Yup its an audiobahn aw1500q "Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 1.00 - 3.50 cu.ft." I think its just becoz its more powerful it only needs a similar sized box, I had it in a similar sized box before but only on a 400w rms odd amp and it sounded pants!

Ported boxes are louder and more boomy, good for a lower power sub, where as a sealed box are better at lower frequencies, but you need more power really. I always have sealed boxes, and the box needs to be bigger if its ported. I have a 15" sub in a box thats just over 1 cubic foot on a 1.1kw rms amp, fcuk its loud!