dukest

if they're not split rims then £340 for a refurb is taking the mickey. even if they all needed building up with new welding then £250 should be the max you'd pay - eg. £160+VAT for standard refurb with fancy paint you need to look for cracks or actual dents in the rim of the wheel, but if they're just scraped nastily then, as you've been told, its not an issue to sort out, and for the kind of money above. the price for the wheels seems ok, they should make £400-500ish without tyres in good condition, they were £800 without tyres new so call it £1k for new everything.

^^^ exactly, i would be selling it to people who want a look, not email it around for free! ;)

mine is getting worse and worse for this, it still always starts when cold, but if left for less than about 10mins its very unreliable. havent changed anything yet but it can only be something that would get worse with heat/running as its always spot on from cold.. how much was the new no.4 relay?

hope it all goes well, but keep an eye on it after you've had a go. its a nasty area to try to get sorted if it gets worse so dont be afraid to resort to a bodyshop if it needs it.

Mine: TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup. Even grease looks better under a strobe :D

worrying yes! i'm not quite following how they got his car out from so far down in a ravine that you couldnt even see it from the road!

see post 3 in this thread ;)

i dont mind doing this for you but sending discs internationally will probably cost at least £30 - are there no suppliers in Finland?

no worries :D

you asked how to close a thread, i said i dont know if you can do it so I offered to do it for you instead? ---------- Post added at 10:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:16 AM ---------- so you wanted to delete a classified ad not close a thread?!

probably best for you to go 215/40 then as you should be ok at et35 even though 205 would be the normal choice. hopefully with 215 you'll get a bit of protection and not much stretch without rubbing. 215/35 would be a step back from where you are i would say. check out the calculators above to see the difference in sidewall height with the various options. if you're on coilovers obviously you can adjust height for rubbing.

i dont know what you can do vs us Abdul but if you want one of us to close it for you then just post the link here or something

have a play with the calculators in this thread, will close this one though and copy your question

there's no significant design/material difference between standard and mk4 front calipers, the reason people fit mk3 or mk4 288mm fronts is because of the larger size and therefore significant improvement in braking effectiveness. you would be pleased to have fitted them, but if you really arent bothered about improving performance then refurbing your current front set-up would be just as good as fitting "newer" brakes in terms of reliablity.

yup, given what it did to the rear of the car i'm not surprised to be honest!

is it me or was he in some kind of rwd only setting when spinning the wheels like that? call me presumptious but i'd imagine using 4wd in your 4wd monster would help in those situations..

its not your fault and your insurance company is not going to lose out as the other side are paying so there is no reason why they should not repair it.

does it actually have a sub in it i guess would be a factor? (no, i cant afford to buy it off you :( )

that all sounds fine, you'll just need to play with the height to try to avoid any rubbing

holy 2 and 3/4 year thread revival batman :) the OP hasnt logged on for a year! ;)

what roads and speed are you doing in that 8 miles? I would say if you can get up to that level in 8 miles then thats not too bad but then i'd expect you to end up with a higher mfa average too. 8 miles across london even in reasonably good traffic and i can still struggle to get much over 20..!

a seperate amp is just replacing the amp in your head-unit Hasan so nothing change if you start using an external one, you just connect the new amp to the pre-out sockets and move the speaker wires from the head-unit to the amp. your parrot is connected to the head-unit and mutes the music signal when a call comes in, the fact that a different amp is amping the signal doesnt stop it doing that in just the same way. I guess if you have an amp already (for a sub?) then you just need a set of phono leads and maybe some longer speaker cables depending where your amp is located vs your head-unit?

isnt it more supply and demand tax? scene tax is on fancy stuff that people have been persuaded is cool surely?

I think including petrol, insurance and tax/mot is misleading in these analyses as they apply more or less to any comparable car. What people are generally trying to illustrate with these things in my view is whether it was a good choice of car financially in terms of what it cost to maintain and what its worth at the end of your ownership. That gives £15.5k or £1.7k/yr which as said is easily comparable to anything else in the £30k+ bracket these days, if not probably better.

stretch the tyres and drive slowly and you might be ok :)