dukest

a remap on an R32 gets you a lot more power than a remap on a VR though doesnt it? doesn't herisites one run around 280 brake? I'm sure PeteGriff's was up near the 300 mark too..

look up the heater matrix replacement instructions (by Kris i think?) - that shows how to get the dash out pretty well

yes, you'd be mad to buy a new one, i bought a spare for £15, refurbed it and bought 5 matching tyres seeing as the spacesaver wont go over my 288 fronts or 280 rears. they can be rotated around so you dont end up with unbalanced wear.

like 6 individual throttle bodies? it makes them sound like absolute monsters as far as i'm aware! there are some youtube vids out there that you can listen to.

its a later, more modern and efficient management system which uses information and controls the engine in a superior way to obd1. it uses a number of different parts under the bonnet (throttle body, maf, engine loom etc) and the different engine loom connects to a different ecu. you can buy the bits from later golf vr6s (95-98) but the real effort is tailoring and installing the replacement loom for the corrado which, if you pay a garage to do it for you is a good 2 days work. worthwhile from a performance improvement perspective though as you've read already!

you cant put it on a corrado so we're not really missing out, nice as it would be..

To make the power they wanted and also meet eu4 emmissions, VW had to get more air through the engine, hence drafting Cosworth to design the 24v head. Without the trick inlet and variable cams, the 24v is even flatter than the 12v 'off cam'. with all that extra flow in the 24v head I bet it would turbo well...... Plus you'd get that nice chopped up turbo noise! get on with it!!

had no idea they were worth anything like that money - complete madness given the blamange of a car it was created from! and as repeated above, scores of better, more iconic, cars you could have instead now!

i like ham..

if you really want a g60 as opposed to a 6cylinder engine for the better weight distribution then i cant see there's much thats worth keeping from the golf. however, if you consider that the 4wd transfer box will balance the weight out and it will all be a lot lighter in a C than a golf anyway, then keep virtually everything and swap it all over! if you're on a budget though then allow yourself a year to do it all :grin: there are a couple of 4wd 24v projects that have been done so the information is out there!

they make a difference Hasan but i think its still night and day from what all the 24v Corrado owners say once they've done their conversions.. Vag-Hag's graphs were the best with 263s as i remember, but i found a bora graph at the bottom of this page and it shows that you get virtually all of your torque by 2.5-3k revs whereas on the 12v, cams or not, its well after 4k... having the schrick on mine brings it forward by about 500-750rpm but its still a different experience i think..

its always the little things! the clear side repeaters on my C are still my favourite mod so far :camp:

its the cat and the cat guard underneath it. probably a bit loose with the hangers wearing a bit or maybe one has broken. not hard to fix i dont suppose though. I had the same and asked quikfit to check and they said it was fine, fix when you want to..

this car is completely awesome :)

Liking the wheel spending north of the border at the moment :D but at the same time, shame as it would be, thats a breaking thread I'm looking forward to - i might have some money by then! :norty:

thanks a lot chris! doesn't sound too bad - i guess i need to work out where the slave is now then and see what else I have to get my hands on to do it! if anyone has any pictures or other tips on what needs doing after i've put the new one on then I'd be grateful! cheers!

So, as you would expect, after selling a virtually brand new master and slave clutch cylinder in January, which i bought for a project I didnt do, about a week later I began to realise that i needed to push my own clutch closer and closer to the floor to get a clean change. So, I did some reading on the forum and one or other or both cylinders failing is likely to be the problem. It had a new clutch less than 10k miles ago for background. I rang Graham at DG to ask how long it might last and he said it wasnt an easy thing to predict, but although I'd been muddling on for 10 days since then I tried to use the car today and I cant put it in gear. Graham said it was likely to be the slave first but it would be hard to know until you do one or the other. If I cant persuade the AA to tow me somewhere that I would be happy to do the work, can anyone tell me whats involved in changing the slave and or master cylinders yourself? I dont have any bleeding equipment or experience if that helps as a starting point... :pale: Thanks John

not necessarily the cheapest option but the best would just be to get some thicker adaptors.. considering you're probably only talking about 5mm each side its going to be tricky otherwise as the bolts in the current adaptors might not be long enough if you put the spacers on the inside, and if you put them on the outside then you're going to lose the "hubcentricity" of the adaptors which isnt a good idea. what is the thickness of your adaptors and offset of your wheels at the moment?

sorry, didnt see the thread or I could have said that was exactly what happened to me but as you say, playing around enough you realise theres another way round it! does make you panic a bit halfway through though!

very nice, they even look a little menacing - like spinning cheese graters (in a good, weapony kind of way!). :D

Phil, factory brakes like the 280/288/312s are all sliding, single-pot brakes whereas by definition the 4pots (brembo/wilwood/tarox/AP) that people normally upgrade to will always be far superior even for the same or even smaller disc size. Your 6-pots will be another step up again but all as a result of caliper design and little to do with disc size!

Haha, yep the tyres were pumped up. I used my bathroom scales and they seemed good in the past. The wheels did feel a bit on the hefty side to lift! Maybe I need some TD Pro or similar then! Oh yes, forgot about them too - TT Comp was around 10.5kg on its own IIRC when i weighed one the other week. That air must be heavy :D

just took these off for a while - 15in BBS Solitude with R888 track tyre on is 16.4kg, unfortunately dont have solitude only weight though

ah ok :) i'm sure they wont be too different but i'm sure someone will know for sure!

is this an improvement? arent the rears 226 or 256 already?