Mike Edwards

Kev, you'll need to refresh my memory as to what it says on the springs - so I can do the conversion again. From memory though the rears works out about the same as the figure you quote, but the fronts were higher still.

Which H&Rs do you have at the moment Kev? The ones I had came with spring rates that were higher than the figure you quote for the Gaz items, and there was very little difference in droop between front and rear.

It shouldn't drop that much - but it will ride a whole lot better.

That sounds more like a leak between the head and the manifold.

Strangely, ETKA lists Mk2 springs as a possible fitment at the front for a VR6 engined C. Other possible fitments for the VR6 at the front also apply to the 2e, 9a and ADY 4-cylinder cars Dampers are the same accross all models (although there are 2 versions at the front. At the rear there are only 2 springs listed - one of which fits all models, while the damper is VR6-specific. So - in theory - an uprated Mk2 suspension set-up ought to be fine on a VR6 Corrado...

One other thing - the rear brakes do very little on a C (that's what the brake compensator vavle does - reduce rear braking) so going for anything other than standard items is a personal choice. Fitting Mk4 items is more about getting a handbrake that works consistenly and doesn't stick on. One thing about the standard disks - they're electroplated so the bits around the braking surface don't go rusty.

BTW - you have got the subframe off the car haven't you?

You'll probably need to lubricate the subframe around where the bushes sit (but don't lube the ARB) Put the bushes on the bar and get everything lined up with the bushes inserted into the recess on the subframe. Get the tongue of the bracket into position in the subframe, then push down hard while rotating the bar upwards. This has the effect of pulling the bush into the recess in the subframe and allows you to get the bracket and its retaing bolt to line up.

To rescucitate this thread... Kev, what Diameter is the butterfly on the OBD2 TB in the picture? I now have the correct parts, but note that the butterfly is 70mm diameter For comparison, the butterfly in the gas-flowed OBD1 2.9 TB I have is 65mm, as is the one in the standard OBD1 2.8 TB I also have.

The pads are twice the size and thew swept area is significantly bigger. So yes, a useful improvement over a 280mm set up, plus they stick out less giving you more clearance if you want to change wheels.

204/45 r16 is what I have. But if you want to keep it looking standard but with much better brakes, why not just fit 288mm items? Same calipers, pads and hoses but different disks and carriers - so you can upgrade further in the future if you feel like it.

On the front, the strut top bearings (fit the top mounts and bearings from the VR6). On the rear, just the top mounts as they compress to buggery over time.

I'd look at Kev's suggestion that the "auxilliary jounce buffers" (aka bumpstops - though that's only one of their functions) were the wrong length. VW do half-height items for the front (Mk4 Golf Sports Suspension) but the rears need trimming. If these haven't been trimmed, then - as they act as additional springs - it will feel mis-matched.

Koni do the FSD for the Mk3 Polo - which will fit...

IWS - I'm confused. You say you thought the dampers were good but the shocks were pants? Did you mean the springs were pants? BTW, I also found the Sprintline dampers harsh - the low frequecy dampers felt good, but the high frequency was way too stiff (rolling undulations in the road felt good, but catseyes would rattle my fillings loose!) They do do good dampers, but you have to pay more.

I used to have the H&R setup on my VR6. Above 60mph it was great, but at lower speeds while the damping seemed good, the spings felt too stiff. I asked H&R what springs I would need to fit to have the same spring-rate as their lowering springs for the VR6. Based on thier answer, it seems the spring rate of the coilovers is 105% stiffer at the front and ~100% stiffer at the back than the standard suspension. That said, I'm considereing going back to coilovers from my current Koni?H&R setup. Might try Koni t/a coilovers this time as the prices seem to have come down quite a bit of late, and the service centre in Frimley seem happy to modify them as required too.

Ah - that's a different problem. As the rear of the car sits lower the compensator opens increasing the rear brake bias.

If you take it to VW they'll be able to adjust it using specialist equipment, but this worked for me when fitting Brembo's to my 16v and 312's to the VR6

Try setting it to the same as the existing one? Failing that, 'brake testing' on a straight peice of road is called for. Basically disable the abs, get up to speed and stamp on the brake pedal. Adjust and repeat until the rears don't lock 1st.

Oh well... So, I have late-model AAA obd1 throttlebody which coincidentally appears to have an inside diameter that's about the same as the gas-flowed ABV obd1 throttlebody I took off. On the plus side the different linkage makes for a much more direct throttle action.

Yes, bolts straight on and moves the peak torque several hundred rpm lower

Interesting - different again from the ones I have which are more like a big bore OBD1. That looks more like 24v throttlebody? Part number is consistent with a 2.8 24v from a Mk4 When was the change-over OBD2? The bits I have are from a very late Mk3. Maybe I should change the title of this thread... :)

The alignment is likely to be all over the shop at the moment which won't be helping, plus depending on how much you've lowered it at each end the castor and camber won't be helping. Get is measured and find out how far it is from standard then decide on the ride height and get the cmaber adjusted to suit.

Should need spacers the same size as used to fit the 312mm set up, but might need to check for clearance on the wheels you have fitted. Obviously, if they don't fit I'll be happy to swap my 312mm set up... :)

Yes to the last 2 items. Not tried the Mk4 rear stops so don't know (do they work with the standrad dirt covers?) Mk4 front stops (to use with the sports springs - already shorter) are the way to go at the front. See the picture to understand why.