Mike Edwards

Refreshing to hear some common sense*! Now, if we could just persuade a few of those addicted to lowering that the car handles better when it has a reasonable amount of suspension travel...:) *Kev usually speaks sense before anyone mis-inteprets that statement - and his car is about as low as you want it to be for reference.

That would be because the details are in the post to members, but as posted on the Yahoo e-group this afternoon: VW Corrado Club GB Annual General Meeting has been booked for Sunday 23rd April at The National Motorcycle Museum just south of Birmingham. Try and be there to give your input into the future of the club. Please try and be there for photos and car line up from 11 AM with meeting to start at 12.00 prompt. We will accept new members on the day but you need to be there by 11 AM to sort out membership. Any items for inclusion and discussion will need to reach a committee member by Tuesday 18th April.

When I go to http://www.corradoclub.org/ I seem to get the full site, so where are you looking?

Site is now back up.

Well, that went smoothly - but I'll have to drop it again as I realised part way through that I was going to need some new fixings for the ARB. Changed the wishbones/bottom balljoints/track rod ends/drop links at the same time. As the 'bonded' rubber of the rear bushes could be pushed out by hand, I'm guessing I should have done this a while ago....

Yes - that's why I said the gearbox is the same. :) If you're not worried about the ratios, any 02A 'box will do.

The gearbox on the 2l 16v is the same, as is the one found on some 2 litre Passats from 1992-97. Look for an 02A cable change box with the CGY code.

Try a new gearbox mounting. They age and allow movement which destroys the shift quality

Herefordshire - if you own a C... :)

As for suspension set up, I currently run Koni t/a with H&R - a good compromise in terms of ride, handling and looks. Previously I've run H&R coilovers (springs on the hard side - worked well above 60 mph but a bit jarring at lower speed. Not really surprising given that they're ~twice as stiff as stock springs), and Bilstein dampers (high-speed damping was too harsh - avoid) with H&R springs. All of the above with 16" wheels. On the other C's I've owned, Koni t/a coilovers were the best - even running 17" wheels.

85mm? you'll be wanting a new front subframe soon then - having ground the old one away... :)

Ah right - I understand now! You're lifting the engine/gearbox off the subframe, supporting the car then dropping the subframe out. Manoeuvring the various bits with the weight of the engine still attached to the frame was giving me pause for thought. In which case the I see 1 day of prep and 1 day of JFDI to change the rack, rods, rod ends, wishbones (inc bushes) ball-joints, drop-links and all the bushes/bolts

Your mission - should you choose to accept it - is to figure out how to do this using 2 trolley jacks, a bottle jack and a pair of axle stands...

Can someone who's done it tell me how to remove the rack without dropping the subframe please? Assuming it's possible....

You did fit the calipers the right way round - bleed nipples at the top? Can't see them in the picture...

Set it so it e-mails new posts to you directly - sorts the problem you mention... :)

All offers of 24v VR6 engines considered... :)

An easy bleed will get the job bone with just one person - just be careful to keep the reservoir topped up.

Which one has gone - one of the M8 bolts or the M10 (assuming we're talking about the cast bracket that bolts onto the gearbox)? Or do you mean the bolt that goes into the mount itself? If the former, remove all the other bolts that go though this bracket (with the engine supported - obviously) and slide it off. Then have at the remains of the bolt with penetrating oil/blowtorch using molegrips to unscrew the remains. "Trick Tip" - heat the end of the remaining bolt until it goes yellow, then clamp the Molegrips on while its still soft. Once it's cooled, it will undo without problems. If there isn't much left, try penetrating oil/blowtroch and an Easy-out.

Don't be silly - you know that painting them red will make them work at least twice as well... :)

Umm... I paid £180 for the calipers, carriers, disks, pads, hubs, wheel bearings, hub carriers etc. They're common with a lot of othe VAG-group cars, so don't pay a premium just because they're off a TT (if they are - ask the seller to prove it wasn't a Golf/Bora/Leon/Octavia)

The VWCCGB still has a VW Parts Club membership. Only any use for service items, but better than a poke in the etc... Dealers will always give discount if you go there often enough :)

Oh well... The Sprinter should be out soon. If anyone wants the job of re-invigorating the VWCCGB they're welcome to put themselves up for election as Chairman at the AGM. Not sure that not wanting to be sued is a 'waffly' reason for not tying the club more closely to the Web, but if the Mods on here are happy to put themselves in the firing line - why not? Comments welcome.

It's possible that the microswitches in the motor/gearbox have developed a fault or that the switch has gone (check by borrowing these items from someone else), but my money would be on a mechanical fault resulting from lack of luberication (you have been lubing it haven't you???)

In which case, using a bread knife trim the uppermost 'segment' off the rear bumpstops, and the lowest segment off the fronts.