Mike Edwards

Yup - just the bits where the pipes attach.

Thought that would get somebody's attention! Following on from last year's heart-warming 174bhp at Stealth with my G60, I bought myself a supercharged BMW Mini Cooper S 2 weeks ago. Having completed running it in, it just went on the rollers at Millway in Andover today. 167bhp at the wheels equated to 190bhp and 170lbft at the flywheel. :shock: Not bad for a car whose only mod is a John Cooper Garages Works airfilter - particularly as the spec says it should be making 170bhp at the flywheel. :D Millway's rollers may be optimistic compared to others, but there were standard cars making standard BHP and modified cars meeting the manufacturers claims done before and after. Maybe today's low temperatures and high pressure helped... 8) (Before anyone asks - I kept the VR6.)

:roll: :lol:

If you're deciding which Corrado to buy on the basis of fuel consumption, you're looking at buying the wrong car....

They're magnetic, rather than optical. Check the elctrical connections 1st. To do this (and find the sensors on the front) look for the electrical lead that attached to the front strut.

Those are the ones.

153.8bhp at the flywheel. 1.8 KR with Kent 1602R cams, and a Miltek exhaust.

The cables don't wear, but can need adjustment. The lever assembly can lose circlips as mentioned by Riley, and the gearbox mounting as it wears makes for a baulky shift - but thats it.

Seconded. If they're out of adjustment you tend to find that they don't go into specific gears (or stay in specific gears)...

Forget the top speed. The G60 pulls well across the entire rev-range, while the 16v you have to thrash. Maybe I should mention? I've had both a 16v (with modified cams) and a G60 - at the same time... 16v is more manic, G60 just goes - everywhere.

130-something bhp at the wheels is ~30bhp down on what you might reasonably expect from a healthy VR6 - pretty much independent of whose rolling road it is. The rpm at which it's making peak torque and power look about right though.

The tools is a very complicated looking beast that only VAG dealers are likely to have. Manual adjustment is possible using nothing more than a ring spanner and a little care. Before starting to adjust anything though, make sure your gearbox mount is in good condition, that all the circlips at the gearlever end of the mechanism are present and correct, and carefully mark the existing positions of the cables on the gearbox end of the mechanism. Next, what's not good with your existing gearshift?

dr-mat - the comment was aimed at the gentleman with the under-developed social skills...

You have to admire the lemming-like tendencies of someone who criticises not one but two moderators of the Forum though eh! )

Handbags at dawn required I feel. Only in this case maybe if the the one with poor choice of words and an irritable streak beats himself senseless for the entertainment of the rest of us. You may well be God's Gift to VW fault diagnosis and tuning (you do appear to know what you're talking about) but your attitude sucks.

Maybe a gas-axe would be more appropriate?

Rear calipers for 232x9mm rear disks are: 1J0 615 423 and 424 (A, B and without suffix depending on model) Carriers are: 6Q0 615 425 and 426

I'm selling a set...

You want a screen??? Prize out the mirror glass using a plastic ruler inserted under the bottom edge having adjusted the mirror to the full "up" position 1st. It's held in by a combination of double sided adhesive and plastic clips. The elements burn out over time btw.

Replace the wishbone as a complete item - much less hassle...

Mine has 130k on it. So far I've replaced: - Brakes (disks/pads calipers/hoses); - Exhaust; - Suspension (dampers/bushes and top-mounts); - Engine/gearbox mounts; - Radiator; - Coolant hoses and thermostat housing; - Headgasket; - Battery; - Engine sensors (pretty much all of them - plus the ISV). Otherwise the rest has been service items. That said, I have the following ready to go on: - Coilpack (new); - Cylinderhead (recon); - Front wishbones (new); - Steering Gear (2nd hand); - Clutch; - Timing chains and tensioners. All depends on the type of use its had though...

M14 with a 1.5 pitch. VW still sell them. The above assumes that you have standard shocks - the pitch on Koni's is different.

Yep - definitley clean it well away from where you'll be welding - from personal experience it can be a real pain to put out once it starts to burn...

So your recommended engine is???

This is the perfect opportunity for a brake upgrade. It's also a lot easier than trying to free-off the old carrier (which is the bit that seizes...)