Mike Edwards

Ah right - the threads in the roof panel have gone. No problem if you're replacing that, but check the threads on the torque screws. As the the leak issue: the inner panel of the sunroof mechanism - when fitted properly - catches the water and drops it into the side channels of the mechanism from where it drains away. If the complete inner panel isn't fitted or is damaged, you'll get wet no matter what you do with the 'seal' along the edge of the roof panel.

The late mechanism has an indentation to clear the larger motor assembly, and the adjuster screws/washers for the roof panel are attached to the mechanism, but that's it. So a late roof will work fine in an early car using the early motor/loom/switch, but you can't use an early roof in a late car without changing to the earlier motor and switch. Simple... :)

At the risk of causing offence - the adjuster screws are spline drive not allen key. If you're already using the correct tool (sorry :) ) the screws can be replaced*, so that's no problem. The seal isn't a water seal though - that's why there are water drain pipes at each corners of the roof mechanism. If water is flooding in when you hose the roof, either the drains are blocked (causing and overflow) or the inner panel isn't fitted properly. HTH *I'm sure I've go some

Stainless bodies, or not? If so, this is what happens when you put ally and SS together with salt...

I'm guessing you're not interested in driving it then?

KW Variant 1 looking promising at present.

Maybe I should start a repair and fitting service???

More like a couple of hundred kilos. If you're talking about coilovers, you won't have a problem. Otherwise, the only way to find out is to try them.

If it opens on tilt but doesn't close, you need a new cable. You probably also need a new 'water guide plate' as well, as this is what caused the cable to break. If it slides but won't close (or jams/scratches the roof), you just need the 'water guide plate. HTH

like I said earlier, there's very little tension on the rear spring. After you've removed both of the rubber bits at the top (and the associated 'washers'), working down there should be a nut, a 50mm spacer, the top plate (steel - corroded to buggery in your case), the upper spring seat (probably perished), the bump stop and dust shield, plus a protective cap on the damper. The spring fits under/around this little lot, and sits on the lower spring plate. The remains of the top plate, spring seat ans spring are probably fused into a single lump. One you've got the spring off the damper, try applying 'percussive maintenance' to seperate them and buy new bits as appropriate. It may be that you have to replace the lot... HTH.

They fit fine. The C weighs more though so the springs might be a bit stiffer.

What? Just saying that you should take the various bits visible in the pic off 1st, then jack the car up...

On the rear suspension, there usually isn't much compression of the spring with the spring/damper assembly off the car. I can compress the spring by leaning on it - and I don't weigh a whole lot... In this case though, the top plate has collapsed - so when you jack the car up and unbolt the damper, the spring will just slide off. Before you do this though, undo the nuts above and below the retaining plate on the top of the damper, and remove the upper bush and the two metal caps that fit onto the shaft either side. This will allow you to drop the damper out once the bottom bolt has been removed (best achieved with the car jacked up)

i meant "Yes the pothole could have caused the corroded component to collapse" The squeaks probably indicate that to top cap had already collapsed and any bump would have finished it off. Good luck with the claim though.

Yup. :(

It looks like the top spring plate has collapsed as a result of corrosion. Replace* that and provided there's no sign of damage to the shock or bodywork you should be fine. *Assuming that the old one can be removed.

VAG for all the bushes and top mounts. On the front it's easier to buy new wishbones with the bushes fitted. Also consider the ARB bushes and drop links, plus the bottom ball joints and trackrod ends. As to disks, any drilling or grooves is largely cosmetic on a road car, so new disks or a big brake kit is the way to go. Oh, and new brake hoses. HTH

If a piece has broken off the end of the cable, then they're quoting you for a new cable. Try getting a replacement from one of the cars being broken in the For Sale section.

I'm looking at a parts catalogue and workshop manual and I still can't figure out from the pictures which bit has broken. Maybe its the front pivot stud bushing, maybe it's part of the shift lever guide. Neither of these bits is expensive, but can be fiddly to replace. It's probably a good idea to investigate why they broke (and stop driving it) just in case you end up damaging the gearbox.

No - pressure regulator is now fully open. It's designed to increase the rear braking effort as more load is placed on the back of the car compressing the rear suspension. Right now, the regulator is under the impression that you have a boot full of bricks and a couple of heavy mates in the back seat - so it can apply full pressure the rear brakes. As you don't have this (just a lower car) rear wheel lock-ups are likely. Try adjusting it so that the spring is just under tension with the car on its wheels and then go brake testing to see which end locks 1st in an emergency stop (disable the ABS 1st if you have it).

What state are the beam bushes in?

Hmm... On the VR6, 121 121 121A is a "connecting socket" held into the "coolant thermostat housing" by 2 allen head bolts. The thermostat sits just behind it. There is also 021 121 133 D "connecting socket" that is also held on with an allen head bolt. The number you give is yet another "connecting socket" for 03-on V6 engines.

There should be more clearance between the carrier, caliper and wheel with the 288mm setup (16" Audi 5-hole need a 3mm spacer with the 280mm setup, but no spacer was required for the 288s). So subtract 3mm from any spacing/shaving you've done to work out what's needed for the 288s HTH.

None...

ARB droplinks?