Critical_Mass

Yes i was referring to the top plate that sits on top of the spring on a shock/spring setup. But as Mike said his H&R coilies didnt come with a 'cone' top plate, where as my coilovers do come with the 'Cone' top plate.

Second that. No wax or polish afaik and definately no T-cutting - not that you should have to. What about just washing the car though, is that ok?

First time I've heard that! The two rubber bushes are designed to spread out and be compressed on either side of the suspension tower. The OE rear top plate is designed to hold the rubber peice that locates onto the OE rear spring. Coilvovers are not OE, so don't need the OE plates. I've fitted 3 types of coilovers and never used the OE rear top plates and never had any problems. Thanks for the clarifying that Mr Cheeswire, good job too cos now i dont have to take the coilies back off :lol: Gaz

If you're wanting to keep that car and the body work and other mechanical parts are sound then, yes imo. But you maybe able to get a 120-150k VR that's had chains/tensioner done for not much more then a grand. Was it LisaK that had picked up a 85K VR for £1500, though that could have been months ago that she bought it.

I dont find thats always the case. Lets face it they rip fairly easily so you do get your hands dirty, just nowhere near as dirty. They're ideal for oil changes where you risk getting oil all over your hand when taking the sump plug out. Dumb of me not to mention some Irwin bolt grippers, to try BEFORE the angle grinder. Cant praise those bolt grippers more.

No youre not the only one :lol: i picked up 3 boxes of gloves for 6 quid i think it was from standford. thats 600 pairs of gloves :lol: Allen keys can be useful too. You got any ramps?

Strange, Once id taken the shockers off i decided to lower the car a bit on the jack and the stub axles raised into the arch. Jacking it up higher caused the stub axles to drop the higher it was raised.

:lol: ah, so you dont necessarily need them. Sorry made that harder then it needed to be.

Looking at the H&R coilovers, they dont have the cone shaped plate on top.

ah get ya ;) Cheers

It wont fit right though will it? The plate on the coilover is cone shaped, where as the top plate is shallower. Will it sit right?

Yeah the fella. Do i still need the top plate if it has the above?

Really? My coilovers came with a top plate, so maybe thats why im saying to get rid of the OEM plates.

Sorry that may have sounded like a daft question :lol: Cheers Dec. Whats the standard ride height of a 93 VR from wheel centre to wheel arch centre?

When you say tighten them Toad, do you mean the nut that sits over the spindle? I read on a guide not to over tighten this, but to just do it 'hand weight' on top of the ratchet? And i stupidly threw the ABS rotars away with the old discs! GRRRR £9 plus VAT each!

Yup thats right! Dont got to GSF for the bolts. I had to cut the fronts off, went to GSF to get replacements. For what ever reason they didnt have them, but told me (hear this) to go to a DIY shop and get the correct size bolts from there! Me being naive, i did and they were on the car for months. Until someone from here told me they were high tensile bolts. So basically GSF had me driving around in an unsafe car :censored:

Bump, anyone?

I think so, yes. Have you ever had the suspension off before? If not you may find the bolts hard to remove, esp the front suspension bolts. You may have to grind them off, or something so maybe worth investing in new bolts too.

True, but mine turned out to be a false alarm. But I can see where you're coming from. Also i checked out the options sticker in the boot and fed them into the options page that was posted on here. Turns out mine came with sports front seats (recaros?) which were electrically adjustable, heh though they didnt come with the car. Hey thats my Bordeaux rado on the first page :D

Are you fitting shocks and springs or coilovers? Sorry i may have missed you saying this. If its the latter, the top plates arent required. GSF do them by the way for about £8 each.

Second that on both accounts, but was really referring to the exhaust comment. Ive got a supersprint cat back. Not boomy at all sounds stock. All i need to do is muffle the manifold as its a bit noisey.

yeah that is key, i spent ages trying to get one of the struts in or out, all i needed to do was raise the car more so the wishbone fell far enough down.

Thats another thing the ABS light didnt come on at all. Turned out to be the bulb wasnt actually in the 'ABS' dash button thingy. Though the car cost me 3k but it has a nice body, not the best but decent bodywork.

Ok mate. I say smash it out because i had a set of those watch maker screwdrivers, you know the ones. No matter how bent i made the correct size i still couldnt get to it. The switch breaks easily to be honest so doesnt need a lot of force.

Can anyone help me with this? Also can someone tell me if the helper spring on coilovers should be on top of the main spring or below, or does it not make a difference either way? Helper springs - Leave as supplied by the manufacturer. Usually the helpers are below the main springs. 29 front, 31.5 rear is way too low for the front. You'll get better handling if the rear is lower than the front and take measurements from the sills to the floor rather than the arches to the floor. I'd set the rear 15mm lower than the front and make sure you've got good suspension travel. I don't care what anyone says, slamming the car so that the wishbones are pointing above parallet f'cks the handling. It's causes excessive brake dive, understeer, bottoming out, and very wayward B road handling. It will initially feel better because of the increased compression forces in the dampers and the lower C of G..... but it will get eaten alive on a B road by a car that has suspension travel![/quote:223ngr9l] Cheers for the response guys. Yeah it looks good, but is way too low as you say. I fitted the springs as they were delivered i.e no adjusting. As i've heard its best to let them settle before adjusting the coilovers, but then i didnt expect them to be delivered set to their lowest settings. The ride is awful to be honest, its quite bouncy/bumpy, though it does handle the corners better. So guys how do i adjust them. Do wind the springs up until the plate is at the top then measure down the thread (depending on desired drop) then wind the plate down to where ive measured? which way is lower and which is raised. Is moving the spring plate to the bottom of the thread lowering or raisign the ride height? The helper springs are on top of the main springs, does this need swapping round as it came from manufacturer like that. Also i measured from middle of arch to centre of wheel. Ill measure again from sill to floor. Whats the measurements from sill to floor for an all round 40mm dro, anyone know?