KipVR

Oh yes definately on for meeting up!! My car is oficially off the road for a while now until I've sorted every problem on it :? . I've had the car for many years now (2001) and I have never driven it without something on it that needs fixing. So for 2008 I've decided to do without a car until it is fully sorted. Fickle beasts Corrados.

Cheers John :D !!!!! Sorry for not getting back sooner but have been compiling it for some time, I doesn't look like one exists, but there is a wiring diagram for the ECU so I created one from that......took me hours but really helps later on. if anyone can add to the blanks or spots a mistake then please let me know... 1&2 brown/red Earth connection -2-, in engine compartment wiring harness and then plenum chamber 3 black/purple D173 Connection (87), in engine wiring harness 4 brown/white Lambda probe 2 5 White Lambda Probe 6 black/brown T4h/2 Lambda probe 2 after catalytic converter 7 8 9 10 blue T4h/3 Lambda probe 2 after catalytic converter 11 red T4h/4 Lambda probe 2 after catalytic converter 12 green Lambda probe 2 13 black Lambda probe 2 14 blue Lambda probe 2 15 red Lambda probe 2 16 17 18 19 20 21 black D51 Positive connection 1 (15), in engine compartment wiring harness 22 blue/green T10w/3 T6/2 Vacuum pump for brakes 23 black D173 2-pin connector, in left engine compartment Connection 2 (87a), in engine compartment wiring harness 24 25 26 purple/green Air Mass Meter 27 green Air Mass Meter 28 blue/purple T10/5 10-pin connector, white, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber 29 black Air Mass Meter 30 31 32 33 grey/blue T10h/6 T6b/5 Accelerator position sender -2- 34 brown/white T10w/1 T6b/6 Accelerator position sender -2- 35 White/blue T10h/5 T6b/4 Accelerator position sender 36 green/red T10h/4 T6b/3 Accelerator position sender 37 green/brown T10/9 Climatronic control unit 38 black/white T10e/3 Cruise control system switch 39 white/red T10w/4 Clutch pedal switch 40 blue/red T10/810-pin connector, orange, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber 41 green/grey T10/710-pin connector, orange, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber 42 43 green/white T10/1 -243 44 brown/yellow Secondary air inlet valve 45 46 grey/brown Secondary air pump relay, in protective housing on left in engine compartment (control number 100) 47 48 49 50 51 white Lambda Probe 52 green Lambda probe 53 red/purple Air Mass Meter 54 blue/white Connection (speed signal), in dash panel wiring harness 55 white/yellow Brake pedal switch 56 black/red T10e/4 - Connection (54), in dash panel wiring harness 57 red/yellow T10e/2 Cruise control system switch 58 orange/brown CAN T10/310-pin connector, white, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber 59 60 orange/black CAN T10/2 10-pin connector, white, in connector protective housing, on left in plenum chamber 61 62 red/green D78 Positive connection 1 (30a), in engine compartment wiring harness 63 Green/Brown Post Cat Lambda 64 purple/red Activated charcoal filter system solenoid valve 1 65 white/purple T6/2 Fuel pump relay 66 67 68 Green/white Post Cat Lambda 69 Green/red Post Cat Lambda 70 Green Lambda Probe 71 black Lambda Probe 72 green/white T10h/2 T6b/1 Accelerator position sender -2- 73 Yellow/Green T10h/3 T6b/4 Accelerator position sender 74 75 blue/green T10e/1 Cruise control system switch 76 white T10e/9 Cruise control system switch 77 78 79 80 81 82 white engine speed sensor 83 purple/red Throttle valve drives angle sender 1, electric throttle t6/2 84 purple/yellow Throttle valve drives angle sender 2, electric throttle t6/4 85 86 purple/brown hall sender 87 blue/red hall sender 2 88 purple/blue Injector, cylinder 3 89 green/yellow Injector, cylinder 6 90 brown engine speed sensor 91 white Throttle valve module 92 purple/black Throttle valve drives angle sender 1, electric throttle t6/1 93 blue coolant temp sender 94 grey/green Ignition coil 3 with output stage 95 blue/yellow Ignition coil 6 with output stage 96 purple Injector, cylinder 1 97 purple/green Injector, cylinder 5 98 purple/red hall senders 1 and 2 99 black Knock sensor 1 & 2 100 101 102 purple/green Ignition coil 1 with output stage 103 blue/grey Ignition Coil 5 with output stage 105 106 red Knock sensor 1 107 green Knock sensor 2 108 brown/blue Earth connection (sender earth), in engine wiring harness 109 110 purple/yellow Ignition coil 2 with output stage 111 grey/red Ignition coil 4 with output stage 112 purple/green Injector, cylinder 2 113 purple/blue Injector, cylinder 4 114 115 blue/brown Inlet camshaft control valve 1 116 117 purple Throttle valve drive, electric throttle t6/3 118 purple/white Throttle valve drive, electric throttle t6/5 119 120 grey/ blue Exhaust camshaft control valve 1 121 brown/purple Variable intake manifold change-over valveR32 ECU PINOUT2.doc[/attachment:3vnv7mqa]

If you want a 3.2 engine with less miles, go for an Audi one....still using them in A3's, the last shape TT, and a few other models, bit easier to find and there is no problem with the Throttle body hitting the bonnet as it is rotated 45 degrees......

Can anyone help me out here, I need to know the ECU pin out configurations for a 3.2 (R32/Audi), does anyone have accesss to the info or know where I can get it from? Cheers :lol:

This looks interesting for connecting the Bosch CAN Bus systems of the latter 24V engine to the Corrado Electrics.... http://www.sempal.co.uk/SPAL_CANbus_interfaces.htm

I feel really thick having to ask this, but how the hell do you get the handbrake grip off?

Hi Jon, 30 Nm + 1/2 turn (180

Take the Stereo out, pull the ash tray out, then pull the facia off round the heater dials, then unscrew the four screws holding the heater panel in and have a look at the cable mechanism behind it to see if it's operating ok, and check the wiring too to see if it's turning the fan on.....

A real little bloke with a small hammer, when you take off the card, he moves into the boot area so you can't see him. Then he moves back there again when you put the card back on. Rat poison can kill him, or line the panels with cotton wool so he can't bang anything.

I ended up getting softer springs and dampers.....get some of the foam backed sticky draft excluder to put between rubbing surfaces (like under the plastic tunnel consol) that works for lots of bits, and then use locktite on all the screws for the dash, get a mate to hit a tyre with a wooden mallet (not the sidewall!!) and get inside and pinpoint all those rattles, you'd be suprised how few there really are, but the ones that do exist are permanently annoying. Or turn the stereo on. :lol:

Almost definately the exhaust hitting on the rear beam, the gap gets tighter when you have people in the back as the beam swings up, rear suspension struts dont clonk like front ones do when the bearings are shot.

Sorry- spraying meant respray!! :lol:

New bumper, bonnet, slam panel, radiator, grille, badge, headlights catch and spraying will come to 500-600 minimum I should think. What are you paying for the car? Is it worth the effort?

How about a group buy :lol: :lol:

And it's only going to get worse.....Buy a tankers worth and store it for 5 years....

Ahh man, my girlfriend knew that I came with my C :lol:

I think that probably depends on haow much you use it :lol:

Thanks Dutch, I have everythig except the realy plate then, thats a relief!! I'm hoping to make a start on the car very soon.............................................................................................when it stops raining maybe!! :lol: actually waiting for some clutch bits to come in from VW..

Doh! I've just looked at the pic properly and realised it's not in the boot!! Having said that though could they do one? And give it a thick bit of foam around the spare wheel to flatten it out like in a Mk3?

Could you do one in black with black edge to match the VAG mats? I think they look great, always wished I had something to replace the horrible bit I've got in the back there...like the storm logo 8)

Can anyone tell me just how much of the loom I need from inside the donor car? The trouble I have is that I'm ordering the parts over the phone and therefore can't look for myself at the TT it's coming out of. Basically I think I need the relay plate off of the fusebox with the realys and what else? Anyone? PS I'm not going down the 24V backing plate/key route, I've got the ECU flased. Do I actually need the whole fusebox? I currently have all of the engine bay loom and the connectors that come out of the fusebox and that's it, they are sending me the rest on but don't know what I need. Is a TT different from a Mk4, because they are also telling me that the fusebox is integral to the wiring loom and that you can't really get it out.... I thought you would need the fusebox to connect the wiring loom into and then use the realy plate for the relays...Or does the engine loom plug into the back of the relay plate. Man I wish I could see the car all this is coming out of, but its a day's drive away....

cheers for that on the air pump, I thought it was ditchable as had not seen it on any other conversions. I'm seriously considering sending the engine back and getting a refund (I'll need luck with that!) as I'm concerned about the cracked sump. Why can't you trust people to give you what they say. :?

Loved my G60 Mk1 Cab, until some gippos towed it away. Spent a year building it, only to find it up on bricks all f@cked up. :(

Bought mine in 2002, sold it in 2004, then bought it back from the guy I sold it to 3 months later as I missed it so much!!! Had to pay him more than he paid me for it too... :?

This finally arrived today, but didn't come with all the bits I asked for (downpipes, CAT's, fusebox and a few other bits) so a little pi55ed off...and it has a cracked sump, that looks as if was done during the accident. I've yet to get hold of motorsinmotion whom I bought it through but I think there won't be a problem. Anyway, does anyone know what the hell the bit in the second pic is? It's on the water system mounted in front of the oil filter head/cooler.