KipVR

I took it that he meant 16v Corrado clocks....Didn't think they were any different though..

Yeah will do, my engine was supposed to arrive on Tuesday but still hasn't arrived... :? The install will be well photographed when I do it though, mainly for those who wish to keep their corrado's running when their 12V get tired as mine has...(well it's a noisy tappet and that was good enough reason for me :lol:). I think a lot of people are in my situation where you look at your corrado, and despite the heater matrix and few other bits, most of it has either been replaced or is still in good nick, except for the engine. To get it reconditioned is as expensive if not more then the cost of a 24V and it's beyond most people's skill to completely refurbish an engine, and it's still a 12V engine after all the effort!! So I thought buy the newer engine, it's more powerfull, lighter, quieter and more refined, and the car will probably be worth more at the end of it rather than the same amount.... So I'm going to do what I wish I had - a 'how to fit a 24V guide' with a bit of help from you guys who already have them!! This was my last engine conversion, a G60 into my Mk1 to give you a taster!!

Ok I'm going to attempt to write a forum 'how to' for my 3.2 install which i'm starting this week. It helps to formulate some sort of install plan so as I can docuument everything in order...... so I'm creating a to do list beforehand, I know it's the sort of thing you missus does but bear with me. I would really appreciate any thoughts on this list because I haven't actually done it yet. Infact I haven't even seen a 24v engine bay!! I'm starting with an Audi 3.2 from a TT. Engine bay harness, ECU, DBW throttle and fusebox. TT Airbox. TT Tubular exhaust manifolds (VW 24V are cast and therefore of no use for cutting/shutting) and CAT's. 1.Send off ECU to Custom code or equivalent for flashing. This gets rid of the immobilizer problems, and I'm hoping the ABS/DSG and anything else the TT has to talk to except the engine. 2. Order/get the O'ring seals for the thermostat housing(as swapping the 12V one onto the 24V one), engine oil & filter, coolant and anything else for the new lump you feel is necessary.... Also consider clutch kit, clutch master and slave cylinders & PAS fluid, exhaust manifold nuts and gaskets. Header tank? Induction kit to replace airbox. 2. Steam clean engine bay and wheel arches, leave overnight to dry (maybe drain radiator now too)!! Maybe film your 12V running for ebay :lol: 3. Take off front bumper, bonnet, lights, grille, slam panel, radiator, battery etc. 4. Jack the car up, undo the exhaust manifold Drive shafts and rear engine mount. 5. Put the car back down and take off the air intake pipe/box, accelerator cable, gearchange cables, fuel lines (plug), and undo the engine wiring connector. 6. Get an engine hoist and hook it up to the engine, take the strain, and take out/off the engine/gearbox mounts. Take off the front subframe too. Then making sure all is free from the car, take the engine out. Split from the gearbox making sure you remember which bolts go where!! Send the gearbox off for a quaife diff :lol: Or just get it checked over in my case :( 7. Take off the scuttle covers and disconnect the ECU and diconnect all the engine bay wiring from the car. 8. Get inside the car and either do what I'm doing and take out the dash completely to do a heater matrix & car alarm change, or just take off all the lower trim around the fusebox to allow easier access to the fusebox and relays. ....and more immediately to the engine harness connector in the back of the fusebox, disconnect it. While under there take out the accelerator pedal. 9. Take the thermostat housing off the 12V motor and with the new seals put them on the 24V motor. Along with crack pipe etc?? 10.Take the pas pump off the 12V and put it on the 24V, but use the 24V pulley. This ensures the rack gets the right pressure. 11. Get the 24V wiring and stick it into the engine bay!!!! ***Help needed here!!!*** Where doed the ECU go in the same place? Do you need to put in an extra wire for the oil pressure as the 24V doesent have a high oil pressure switch, or temp sender. 12.Weld in a bracket to the floor to house the DBW throttle. Plug the old throttle cable hole with a gromett! 13.Connect the 24V loom to the Corrado fusebox using the 24V realay plate. Again, not sure on this bit until I actually get to this point. 14.Good time to take out the factory fitted alarm if you have one, just so that you can get all the electrics working/tested without the influence of a 'third party' Maybe do the matrix too as it's maybe easier to get to bolts etc from the engine side. While I'm thinking about it put in the new Clutch master cylinder too. 15. Mate the 24V engine up to the 12V box, not forgetting the new clutch and slave cylinder. 16. Take the through bolt out of the 24V oil filter housing and replace it with the 12V one. Put on a Tee to house the high pressure switch and Oil Temp, Dutch knows about this I'm not 100% sure how yet but get the idea. 17. Hoist the new engine up and put it on the rear and two side mounts, Put the front cross member back on and welding a collar on the 12V front mount attach it to the 24V block???? 18. Connect up the draiveshafts and gear change cables. 19. Put the radiator onto it's holes in the crossmember and connect up all the pipework and engine bay loom. Putting it into the holes described by someone very helpfull earlier on this site I'll have to check who, or else there are clearance issues- but his also depends on what model 24V you are putting in. 20. Put the battery back in (CHECKING FOR A SPARK, IF THERE IS CHECK YOUR WIRING) and the air intake/filter box. I really want to make my install look as factory as possible so I'll be trying really hard to use the Audi Airbox, only i hope it doesent have an Audi Stamp all over it, I really don't like Audis for some wierd reason, ironic eh! Mind you bar the Mk 5 Golf I wouldn't give any modern VW a second glance either...Rant over, no it's not actually, why can't they make an effing RWD car? Why this obsession with 4WD?? Fine for the big outpus but not for anythig with less than 350bhp, otherwise it's just too much weight to drag about. I think it's because they 'invented' the Quattro system and the Audi Bosses won't allow RWD car because that's what BMW do, FWD deppreciates over 230bhp so they are stuck with cars that suck, ie the S3/TT, with really dull steering despite being quick if tuned. 21. Get under the car, and figure out a way of knocking up an exhaust manifold. Make sure there is some flexibility in the down section like on the VR one. It really pisses me off when you see manifolds on road cars with soft engine mounts that have the flexi bit in the horizontal plane just before where the CAT would go on the VR, so that when the engine rotates under load, it tries to pull the joint apart, rather than compressing it, and then after two weeks of hard driving the exhaust leaks like a Rover. The best option is to go 3-1 flexi joint down round the bend to CAT's, 2-1 then Magnex. If there is enough interest in them i may get Janspeed to knock up a maniflod for this purpose, as I do a lot of 3D CAD work for them. Connect up the probes. 22. If all seems ok, try turning the engine over.If it turns over ok, connect up the fuel lines, put the 'front' of the car back on and connect up the PAS too, maybe do that earlier? Fill up with coolant, oil ,having put the new filter on!! They try to start it, checking the guages, and the making sure there are no wiring problems. 23 onwards just involves putting the dash back together, not forgetting to put the new alarm in first if you want to!! Any thoughts or additions especially on wiring I'd like to hear them. Experiences with getting your ECU flashed, Air pump what's that all about?

Yeah I've heard lots of good reports on DSG, go on you do it first then I'll ask you how to do it once it's done :lol: .....always easier than being the first. I get my engine on Tuesday which is good I think I've planned everything and researched as much as I can to get it done, the only thing I need now is a 24V wiring diagram....Thanks for your advice though Dave, figured it would probably be as much as you've described.... 8)

Oh I meant to say I'm not actually using the DSG, just the Engine that came out of the TT with a DSG... and was wondering if the ECU was programmed differently for this combination.... Oh well I'll just have to wait and see, if the worst comes to it i'll have to just use a different one.

I was going to get custom code to flash the ecu to delete the immobilizer circuit etc so I don't have to use the clocks and keys, I'm just not sure if the DSG gearbox means the motor ecu is different in some way. Ah well if it is then I'll just have to go for an aftermarket one, it's just more expense :( .....my C has cost me enough this year already, but then what year doesn't it......

.......in my Corrado, looks identical to an R32 engine bay, my main worry is that it has a DSG gearbox, and hence the ECU is perhaps different? Trouble is I've already paid for it and now I'm worried I've made a big mistake....

Are you using the heater? Sounds like the heater matrix is going maybe?

I was there as a gumball employee gunning it about it AC S'ZER X5's. The guy was sooo lucky. Mind you there were others that were worse off. It's a bit of a selfish event tbh, don't like it much. He's a nice guy though.

It's best to put a viewing probe down the plugholes and see what state the bores and valve seats are in before you start to crack the engine open, after having done a leakdown test first obviously.... What is the point of putting a good head on a 135k block? It'll cost you more in the long run if you are planning on keeping the car, especially if you are charging it. Ditch the charger plans for a year and spend the cash on a good platform that you can build on :lol: . You can sell your current engine for a few hundred quid to help finace it too.

Nice one, will be interested to see how you get on after it's been flashed etc.....when are you getting it done?

Dutch, Why ditch the two sensors? Looking out for an R32 Engine now, will be sticking with the VW ECU if you can get it to work 8) , who is flashing it for you? I'm just trying to get a list of parts to purchase the whole lot together, can anyone help out on this? So far it looks like Engine( with alternator etc), cats, Engine loom, ECU Not sure about relay plate? Airbox and air intake bit's would be a bonus if I could fit them by relocating the battery...Mocal oil cooler (and a t-piece :lol: ) What about the mounts? cheers Chris

Which ECU do you have then Stan? I've been having a gander at your thread but still can't see it. From what I can see most people reckon that you have to use the 24v ECU but then have to use the Key etc to go with it which means either fitting the clocks or just the backplate into the corrado. All I want is the bare minimum of 24v components, and i think the only way i can do that is with an aftermarket programmable ECU... Your oil temp is not connected to the ECU, and I thought the MPG was driven off the vacuum pipe?

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_k3.html ;) :lol: If you used one of those do you still get the use of the instrument led guages etc? I'm really toying with the R32 engine option but can't bring myself to start messing with the electrics behind the dash, I wan't a 'mainly corrado' car if you know what I mean......or else I'll get beaten for modifying a storm :lol: ....

Right, after a six and a half week wait :? I've finally got my Bilstein coilovers back from being refurbished by Bilstein UK. They were unable to reduce the length of the body but tbh wasn't too fussed about that...but they were able to make the damper settings 10-20% softer all round. It's made a massive difference, I can finally go down country roads without worrying about my teeth :lol: It's now in my view the perfect balance for everyday driving. I'm still using the standard springs that came with the pss kit, which are fairly firm as I understand, i did write down the spring rates but I've left them at work...They sent the springs up the road to eibach to get them rated which was nice of them. Noticeable points are that I've had the kit on the car for 60k and the bearings in the front shocks were totally shot. If there are any of you out there with a quiet clonking noise over gentle bumps (like when your shuffling in traffic) coming from the front, and you've got some coilovers then you might want to get the bearings in the fronts checked. The quoted price for a standard refurb was £60 each shock. However this is just for a re-seal as I later found out. The total bill in the end came to £427 (inc vat) This was for new bearings, spring platforms and re-cutting the thread- basically a new set of shocks but not re-plated unfortunately. Much more money than I had hoped for, certainly after a six week wait, and considering a new set of coilovers isn't much more ...... The guys doing the shocks were great, very helpfull and informing, but I was very aware that the bosses were saying 'some guy with a set of knackered Corrado coilovers' can wait till next week whils't we do this rush job for Aston Martin etc- hence it was always 'next week' On the upside they now feel excellent, much better than when they were when new - which was too hard for anything other than smooth A roads and things got very crashy on country roads and town. It's now very composed on bumpy/country roads, and comfortable through town. In all, I would get them done again, only this time pause my insurance and Tax!!! Worth the wait. Totally professional company, but be prepared to wait behind the bigger fish. You could probably get H & R's done there too, it's still cheaper than a new set.....

So the juddering is the wiper arms is it? I thought the extra effort required to move the lupo wipers had worn the linkage slightly, I'm off to get some new blades then.......

What are the H & R spring rates? I knew the H&R's use the Bilstein dampers, but didn't know they were a comfort option!!

Just sent (a month ago.... :? ) my pss coilovers back to Bilstein for a few modifications which include shortening the the whole damper body and softening up the whole setup a bit to cope with the crappy road surfaces around here, as they are quite firm as standard which is fine for the continent.... I'm hoping to get back a suspension setup that lowers the car 30mm or so (before adjusting the platforms) but retaining a decent amount of the travel enabling me to still get a slightly softer ride. Hopefully i'll get them back in the not to distant future....when i've got them right I'll get a whole bunch made for some of my mates locally and anyone else interested?

I'll get ordering then....Cheers

how different are they from normal bulbs in use? are they brighter? Do they flash like the BMW led lights with a very distinct on/off flash? I've got red tinted lights and want to use a brighter bulb to shine the amber through more....

That's what I said when I bought my storm :D

five hundred all in? Jabbasport maybe- are they still about?

I put this in my cab before it was nicked and written off, it was a great mix, went like a rtocket and sounded great with the top down....

A rivage?

great quality alarm, and a good price