KipVR

What I am saying is that new laws to clamp down on every small thing we do in our cars is not the answer to stop people doing stupid things in cars. If the government wanted to save lives as we all do, they would subsidise railways to get them to a good standard, subsidise busses to make them a real alternative, giving people a real alternative to the car, as they do in other European countries to reduce the sheer volume of cars about. But why would they when the car makes them sooooo much money and subsidisation would cost them. When people get so crammed together sensitivity to others increases and tolerance decreases, which is why so many people are so het up about it as you clearly are, and I can understand it. But just 15 years ago people would have thought you were mad to want to ban eating or whatever in cars. If you seriously think having children in the back fighting each other as all brothers and sisters do is less distracting than lighting a cigarette or eating an apple then you have either not experienced it or seen it.

Then we could ban talking to the driver too, even less accidents then. Then we could ban children in cars because they cause massive distraction, WAY more than eating, that would save even more lives. Then we could ban driving in wet weather, then we could ban driving, not that many people would actually want to drive anymore......As for motorbikes, don't even go there. I don't want my freedom to do what I want to do taken away because some other idiot can't be sensible......

Well most on here have had some problems with the rev counter I think, perhaps it depends on year of engine etc, but hey, cross that bridge when we get to it eh! At least if it doesn't work plugged straight in it isn't too hard to fix... :lol:

The only true way to make out roads safer is to give people other methods of transport as the roads are so crowded these days, there is no margin for error left. But personally I don't believe in taking away peoples freedoom, where does it end, no talking to the driver, no driving? I drive and cycle on the roads knowing full well the risks involved and that I might get run over. Many years ago when I was a kid, when it snowed my old man would get his land rover out and tie sledges behind it, the whole village would join in and he would drive along the roads between the villages towing lots of kids behind him! That would never be allowed these days and my dad would almost certainly get his licence taken away for it, some of the best fun I had as a kid that my little boy certainly wont get unless I emigrate! I'm not pro using mobiles whilst driving and certainly don't do it myself, but I do think that this country I used to love so much as a kid is rapidly becoming a complete nanny state where you can't have fun/freedom. The government want to bring in the old gps receiver for every car jobbie already, it will happen in the furure as the roads get worse despite the huge opposition. Then speeding will be determined using the receivers and that will be the end of fast cars. Back in '97 I had a Mk 1 written off (see pic) after having it on the roads for three weeks, I had been building it for a year. My friend who was a passenger has now got one leg shorter than the other, has terrible scarring and limiled use of his left hand, all because some tw@t decided to overtake on the brow of a hill over double white lines. Combined impact speed of 140mph head on. You will always get these twats on the roads, but taking away everyone else's freedom becazause of the twats isn't the answer in my book. I really hope smoking in cars, eating in cars and all the rest of it isn't banned (no I don't smoke) because it's simply not the solution to the problem. It's a bit like the old more cars more roads ethos, where does it end??LCG485Y.jpg[/attachment:28nem17g]

so how are you planning to get round the rev counter bus signal? I'm thinking I have to get a bus to analogue converter, racelogic do one for 80 quid, but if you look at some of the early R32 wiring looms, there is a converter in the wiring loom before it gets to the clocks, which must be analogue too...

Don't worry about that bud, Some guys on here are using the small realy panel to use the fuel relay and ECU relay from it, but although I have mine it's not going to be used, instead (data)Jon is going to try and construct a small 'conversion loom' with the corrado fusebox plugs on one end and the 24V plugs on the other end. A few of the redundant wires in the 24V loom can then be used to supply the extra sensors to the clocks. But the 12V relays will also be used. That's the plan anyway!! Space behind the fusebox is an issue so it may not be possible. It's still under consideration/construction at the moment.....Quick note. Make sure you have the correct wiring diagrams for the model of the car, there are slight differences between the 24V engines/Audi/VW varients. My loom was out of a fully loaded TT and hence most of it was redundant! What I don't have is the plug to go to the throttle pedal which is a bitch, as the plug was accident damaged by the looks of it, or maybe the morons getting the loom out of the car.. :?

Can I ask how much custom code charged for Flashing the ECU? Also didyou not have to get the ABS and the cat warm up modules turned off too?

How much can you do yourself? I'm currently doing the install now with the help of a friend (i no longer have a garage and he's good with the wiring) and I am in the process of doing a wiring diagram for the conversion; as more of us get landed with expensive engine refurbs. Your looking at 1500 for a 2.8 and 2200 for an R32/Audi 3.2 (same engine roughly) for the parts, low milers. Labour is the killer if your not doing it yourself, but it's not difficult except the wiring. If you can take out an engine then you probably have the nouse to do a swap.

Another 24V reason maybe? I have a bottom end you can have for £100 if you like? Had new chains about 10k ago and new oil pump about 20k ago, just because I put on a new sump. Not sure what condition it is in (it was fine before I took it out) but it's on 128k so it's not new but it buys you breathing space. The head on it needed new tappets etc and rather than get a head rebuild I went for the 24V option so the 12V is just kind of sitting around out of the car now....

Ahh nice one, the sensor is in there but no sign of a plug or any wiring going to it, wierd. I was wondering if I could get some exhaust flap action going on......Cheers Coxy

Mk 1 Gti has a proper oil cooler on it, maybe this one?

Do I have a plug (and wire!!!) missing on the left here????? Anyone

Definately use the VR fuel relay if you can, especially if it means you don't need that relay plate. The less extra stuff the better. i really don't know the score on cofiguring the ECU, (turning off the ABS modules etc) anyone???? Cheers Jon. I'll do some more digging.............

I've been with HIC, Elephant and now with Brentacre and can honestly say, that with the small difference between the prices, on the occasions that I have had to sort something out, it's much easier with Brentacre, because there are only a couple of them there. I had to make a claim with Elephant and it took forever, speaking to a different person every time I phoned, having to explain it all over again etc.....HIC were similar, you can't help it with a big company. I can't reccomend Brentacre enough, and they beat the HIC/Elephant quotes.

Hi Neil, dual pole oil pressure sender? Can you get one to do both low and high pressure then? My new engine oil filter head (24V conversion) has space for only one 1 sender and I thought I had to get a T-piece to make space....but maybe not??? :lol: doh, just realised oil pressure not temp......

I might be able to help you in a while with a new loom/connector/ECU/keys if you need one. Mine will all be redundant soon, I'm afraid I can't answer your question though... :lol:

I had a loose engine mount which made the serpentine belt rub on the chassis and cause a burning smell, but it was accompanied with a whining sound....which is why I asked....

Does it make any unusual sounds?

Nope, new ones are slighly better because the rubber is softer, but ultimately it is because you don't have enough pressure on the wipers. It's also worse in the winter when it is colder as the rubber is harder...

Check the water temp sender, mounted by the thermostat housing above and to the right of the oil fiter housing. Get some spares and swap them over, cheap to buy and a good first place to look......

yeah that's the bit that I didn't quite get, but with outside help I hope to get a good grip on it, doing it now......

usually best to wash them out with petrol, it degreases much better than soapy water, and it doesn't matter so much if any gets trapped.....

i would try using yours and see if it's ok, the VR one is only different gearing (i think) to help with the extra weight, but the 24 is lighter than the VR so give it a go with yours first I would.

I don't have one, could you not get something that will do it from Halfords? Some of the stores have quite a few tools nowadays, ok maybe not the best quality..., perhaps something to pull it through from the other side or get a long bolt, a nut and some big washers :lol:

They must have changed them then pete (I put mine on a long time ago!) mine allowed movement too easily and i had to pack them. But either way only the originals have got the correct properties to allow the beam to move sideways the right amount and return to centre. Many people (esp track cars etc) prefer a locked rear beam though because it is more consistent, passive rear steering qualities change with weights and speeds which why VW dropped it I think........but I personally and many others like it for its ability to swing the rear round gently 8) .....