KipVR

You can use petrol on your rubbers to get any marks off them, dissolves the top layer and takes off the 'shine' to make them look like new again! Don't use it on plastic though.

Yep, that would be him!

Best bet is to speak to him buddy, he can then give you a definitive answer, I think it was 300 all in.

I used to be well into air cooled dubs a good fifteen years ago, a top split bus was around the 8k mark for a samba, now your looking at 25-30k for a good one. Due to the Corrado's nature, many more will be written off yet, scrapped and broken during this time of 'worthless corrado's' and then gradually they'll become more rare and good ones will be worth a lot. Just like all classic cars really! Mk1's are already about there, so give it about ten years and your Corrado will too! Too young still to be a sought after classic, to old to be a 'new car'

Fraiser, Don't worry about the code errors, the guy Zinderapple (chris) put me onto (VAG Doctor) can do all the ECU deletes , and much cheaper than C-Code too as he doesn't ask for a remap... Infact he'll sort you a loom for £200-300 if you send in yours. He'll also come on site to help out so it's all prettey flexible....Google him. Hope it helps chap Chris

That is devotion :notworthy: Nice work, how do you find the time??? Would love to see more finished pics. Some of the best work I've seen on this site. :clap:

Is the fuse holder screwed to the washer bottle? think perhaps the guy installing it wasn't the cleverest of chaps!!

RIM WAX!!! I think you've been had mate!!! :grin: :grin:

Hey no worries about the lack of responses bud, it's a prettey laid back forum these days which is kinda nice change from the other forums with 'opinionated' enthusiast know it all's...... As for the heat wrap, you need to do them individually starting right at the top of each branch doing one wrap around and lockwiring it (don't bother with the steel zip ties you don't get many for the cash and lockwire is so cheap you can use lots of it) and then start to wind it down using a 50% overlap, so at any point there is two layers covering the tube. You can go as far down as you like, but for the purposes of keeping the heat out of the engine bay I should go up to the point of where it goes into the tunnel/up to the collector whichever comes first. When you get to the point you want to stop cut the wrap and then lockwire that. Its then good practice to do a few in between, where seems appropriate. hope that helps chap Chris

Same happened to me, only they also rippled the door panel breaking it off :bad-words: :bad-words: :bad-words:

I'm normally one to steer well clear of twin exhausts and racer stuff but I like the photoshop of the twins you have done. I like it more because you've done without the chrome trims and kept it looking very OE. Stick with it, you can always revert to smoothed if you decide you don't like it.

BBS make it look classier. Brocks look too wide/stretched at the back.

Putting more air in will distort the tyre in the middle and won't make the rubber any harder so they'll still squirm about, so don't do that. Cheap tyres are cheap because they use materials that don't perform or last as well as the expensive ones. Having said that they are usually fine for 90% of the time and if you don't drive like a loon all the time they should last almost as long.

Many people dont like to see a modified storm, and I can totally understand it, despite modding my own. So if you have big plans for it, I would say you might be de-valuing it if it were a storm. Stick with what you have it's only a badge or two.

Sound waves are only absorbed by non reflective surfaces which is why the VAG stuff is like a waffle and is open cell foam. So how can the shiny alternatives work with a reflective surface? Surely that's meant for a bulkhead -to reflect the sound and heat back into the engine bay?? It's a bit like when you drive your car over grass the engine sounds much quieter then on tarmac because the sound is absorbed by the grass but reflected by tarmac.......

All the sound deadening stuck to the underside of my bonnet has degraded and is dropping all over the engine bay, my local dealer has quoted £70 :shock: for a replacement set of panels, has anyone else used any alternatives? I want to keep it as it does soak up al lot of the engine sound keeping it quieter in the cabin.

must ......have.....more......pics......

They may well have gone, I haven't been to Southampton for years.....Just did a quick google, sounds as if they went bust :( Perhaps dont try them then....

I have no idea, the missus got them as a 'secret santa' present!!

Thanks dinkus btw!!!

oh well, can't be dealing with all that, ebay is the answer I think!!!

The heated rear window light has gone in my switch (2 years ago actually!!) and I want to fix it now as I never know if it is on or off.. Can you put new bulbs in or is new switch time?

Ha ha, I was going to take a similar photo wearing my guiness pint ones but couldn't be bothered to be quite that childish :) . Seriously though nice car you have here, watching with interest.....keep up the good work!

Nice Slippers dude :)

You'll need to get your arches seriously rolled/stretched to get 9's on the back and still have it low. Speak to South coast wheels in Southampton, they'll probably know someone who can do it for you.