Mawrick

Any tips on this? - Any way to check/test the gauge itself?

Was not able to get a screwdriver in there - but not sure if it might differ due to tilt on steering and airbag.....reason why I think it was PIA was the 2 bolts holding the switch assembly - beiing rounded of from the factory :(, and ended up braking some stuff...lol...:)

If you have a spare ignition switch (the whole assembly) you could just unplug the wire that goes into the switch and try a new one directly on it. It realy isn't that bad - I ran into trouble cause 2 of the bolts holding the switch assembly have been purposly rounded of from VW. the rest of the job is quite quick to do. (you don't nesecerally have these rounded of bolts...:) If you don't have a "tilt" stearing, you will only have 1 bolt anyway :)

Ignition switch might be cause of trouble. I had such a trouble with mine - seemed to start easier if one made the turn of ignition switch in "one" movement (from left/right), but will need resorting anyway- IE replaced. From your symptoms it seem to be exactly the same probs I had actually. Also if you suspect the MAF you might want to clean it with some start gas - take it out and poor start gas over it from both sides, let it vaporise off, before re-installing it. My 2 cent is on the ignition switch though...:)

As I'v changed my cooling system som samco hoses (VR6) I noticed one of the OEM hoses that went into the firewall had a heat protection pipe around it - do I need this also on the samco's ? (it didn't fit, so eventually have to cut it and "tape" it over or something). Any experiences?

Ah a clue. On the LHD Corrado VR6 photo I have, THAT pipe turns into the scuttle wall between the two heater matrix pipes coolant pipes. There must be a loose plastic pipe inside the dash below the scuttle's floor panel. Its part of the cruise control that goes to the vacuum vent/relief valves the pedals press and also the vacuum actuator unit that drives the accelerator. With it not connected, the crusie shouldn't work??? because there is no vacuum possible in the system to drive the vacuum unit on the accelerator. See fig 2 here..http://www.discotrek.co.uk/pictures/T4/cruise%20con.pdf. . You know what? You where absolutely correct! - had a closer look, and for some weired reason I had absolutely overlooked the small vacuum plastic hose coming out between those 2 lines.! Thnx!

Out of interest - as I don't have much experience with waxes - other then meguiars products - have you tried any of theirs and how does it compare? - and to what meguiars product?`. thnx :)

Just broke the metal lump that the ignition switch sits in - due to trying to get out those stupid bolts that they purposly used "rounded" of heads on and some locktite...:( Well, well, new orderes.........but yea, it includes a he** of a lot of swearing doing that switch...

I presume it might be SACHS that makes the OEM ones - see no reason for not using one of those?. If you go for an "uprated" clutch I would presume it's not as "smooth" for day to day driving.......no personal experience with that though, but I'm sure someone in here can shed some light on it :)

took a closer look at the power steering - turned out to only needing some more "bleeding" to get all air out of system :) WORKING!

Anyone know if it's simple to cut the wires and refit a new MFA harness (VR6).?

did some more checking today, jacked the car up on 2 jacks, and rotated steering wheel from side to side (also did this previously), but apparently some air must have still been in the system. Was able to fill maybe 0.5 cm oil in the tank afterwards to max it up. Atleast it seem to be working now :)

I understood ;) lol...:)

You are correct - I am in the oil industry :) However it was only startet - not run...lol....:) I guess it's mainly to re-introduce oil "damp" into intake to reburn it, so it can get the right emission ;) In the end I guess it will all go out in my prestine environment - to bad I'm not so fond of 1.1l or less engines (if not sitting on a motorbike)....;)

No one got any tips / ideas?

I can confirm it will run fine without ;)

Ok, weird, the parts guy I spoke to here showed me in the catalog it was split into 3 parts, the flap/valce itselfe, and a small pipe, and then the thingy with the wiring attatched to it :) (he was happy to sell all the parts individually though :)). Good it worked out anyhow - I guess it will brake again eventually :) lol

alright, I'l be a bit more patient, really haven't been driving the car after draining it (it's not yet registered), :) Happen to know if a pump from a 1.8 35i passat would fit as a donor - if it turns out to be faulty ?.

No noises from pump, haven't checked for any swarf but I'v just emptied the system, and didn't notice anything with the old oil. refilled to max - doesn't seem to respond any better while reving....:( with "gauze" do you mean filter type of thingy ?

don't think there is any wiring - think it's only driven by the belt......

Anyone know if there is some sort of filter inside the pump or similar - that might be cloged up ?. I seem to get no response from the PAS...:(

This little piece seem to have popped out while I was trying to get loose one of those bolts that hold the ignition switch assembly. I presume it's supposed to be pressed a bit into the inside of where the bearing sits - but so far without any success. Was able to get the spring etc in position - but there was a small movement in the rod - so I suppose this is to hold it steady... Any tips appreciated:

Started the day fitting the bracket support for the fan-wires - sitting on the clutch slave sylinder.....swore some, tried again, swore some more, eventually managed to get it in blace, da*** it's a tight space around those places...:). Went on to bigger and bolder things, trying to replace the ignition switch - (also included quite a bit of swearing). Had to hammer out those nuts they so kindly decided to use self locking "rounded of head" bolts on to hold the switch assembly....managed to brake some of it in the process, but think it's alright - not really broke, but a crack in the metal thingy the ignition key sits in...:( Last thing I tried was to get it back into place, but gave up in the end, as getting that spring and lock "washer" into it's place seem to be hard as ****. So any tips on those are welcome - this is on an adjusted steering wheel - so the bearing part is not part of the lock mechanism itself, and the spring is shorter......:(

Sounds about right - didn't see that about locking the spiral - but I'l try to check that out when refitting it. Managed to brake some of the metal surrounding the lock mechanism - luckily the bearing in the steering column is located on it's own, so only the "bracket" for the wiper handles etc was a bit "cracked". Hopefully it will be alright.

Any idea if both connectors are cliped as this? - or only one removable?. Battery disconnected since yesterday, VAG-com ready ;)